I am installing new wiring in a porch. Previously there had been a single
switch for the front door lights and the same switch for the porch lights
and an outlet (hot only when switched on).
I am separating the porch to its own switch and will get power from a nearby
-To have a switch for a ceiling fan light and the two existing ceiling cans
(same time.no dimmer)
-Switch for the fan
-Hot outlet at all times
I was thinking about using a dimmer light/fan module but am concerned with
tying the light to the other cans.
My thoughts are using 12-3 to the lights then finishing with 12-2 to the
outlet. I don't know how to tie the fan in though.12-2 from another switch
using the fan blue wire?
Thanks in advance for any help.
OK, you want all 3 light fixtures to be controlled by one
unserstood, separate switch
Not a problem.
Assuming your two switches are going to be in the same
location? (next to each other in a double box)
You need 12-2 into that 2-gang box. It can come there from
your new (always hot) outlet, or you can pass it through
there to that new outlet, electrically they are both the
You need 12-3 to get to the fan/light. If it makes sense
physically to *not* put the fan/light at the first stop on
the run, then you need to continue with 12-3 from that can
until you get to the fan/light.
Your 2-gang switch box: All grounds together (note: saying
12-2 and 12-3 here, both are w/ground, of course!) and all
whites together. Your black coming in goes to the bottom
screw on *both* switches. The top screw on one switch goes
to red, the top screw of the other switch goes to black of
your 12-3 cable heading to the 3 fixtures.
For sanity and simplicity, say the switched black is going
to be your lights, he switched red is for the fan. When
the 12-3 gets to the fan/light box, wire the black to the
black of the light kit, wire the red to the blue that feeds
the fan. (if I misunderstood and the blue goes to the
light kit, then swap those two.) From there, you need only
run 12-2 to any remaining light cans, so you connect that
black to the other blacks, and all whites together, and all
grounds together, of course.
If it's easier to get unswitched power to the light
fixtures *first* (rather than to the switch location) you
can still utilize 12-3 to form a "drop loop" to the two
switches, but you need to do some identification work on
the white wire, and know how to connect everything. If
that's the case, let me know and I'll explain it.
Thank I-zheet M'drurz!
The only thing I didn't make clear is that I want the last part of this run
from the switch to be a constant hot outlet. Still do the same but continur
12-3 to the last light then..12-2 to the last outlet?
Not getting what you mean there? If it's on the run from the
switches, *both* hots on that 12-3 are going to be switched,
there is no way to pull "constant hot" from there.
Nope. That's going to give you a switched outlet. You need
to re-route your "incoming" power through there *first*, before
it gets to the switches, or "pass through" the switch boxes
and send it back out to the outlet.
The stuff you're flying in the ceiling (the red and black
circuits of the 12-3, and the 12-2 going to the can(s)) is
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