Switch-new fan and other lights?

I am installing new wiring in a porch. Previously there had been a single switch for the front door lights and the same switch for the porch lights and an outlet (hot only when switched on).
I am separating the porch to its own switch and will get power from a nearby outlet.
I want:
-To have a switch for a ceiling fan light and the two existing ceiling cans (same time.no dimmer)
-Switch for the fan
-Hot outlet at all times
I was thinking about using a dimmer light/fan module but am concerned with tying the light to the other cans.
My thoughts are using 12-3 to the lights then finishing with 12-2 to the outlet. I don't know how to tie the fan in though.12-2 from another switch using the fan blue wire?
Thanks in advance for any help.
deloid
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deloid wrote:

OK, what's past is past... <g>

OK, you want all 3 light fixtures to be controlled by one switch...

unserstood, separate switch

Not a problem.

Assuming your two switches are going to be in the same location? (next to each other in a double box)
You need 12-2 into that 2-gang box. It can come there from your new (always hot) outlet, or you can pass it through there to that new outlet, electrically they are both the same.
You need 12-3 to get to the fan/light. If it makes sense physically to *not* put the fan/light at the first stop on the run, then you need to continue with 12-3 from that can until you get to the fan/light.
Your 2-gang switch box: All grounds together (note: saying 12-2 and 12-3 here, both are w/ground, of course!) and all whites together. Your black coming in goes to the bottom screw on *both* switches. The top screw on one switch goes to red, the top screw of the other switch goes to black of your 12-3 cable heading to the 3 fixtures.
For sanity and simplicity, say the switched black is going to be your lights, he switched red is for the fan. When the 12-3 gets to the fan/light box, wire the black to the black of the light kit, wire the red to the blue that feeds the fan. (if I misunderstood and the blue goes to the light kit, then swap those two.) From there, you need only run 12-2 to any remaining light cans, so you connect that black to the other blacks, and all whites together, and all grounds together, of course.
If it's easier to get unswitched power to the light fixtures *first* (rather than to the switch location) you can still utilize 12-3 to form a "drop loop" to the two switches, but you need to do some identification work on the white wire, and know how to connect everything. If that's the case, let me know and I'll explain it.
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Thank I-zheet M'drurz!
The only thing I didn't make clear is that I want the last part of this run from the switch to be a constant hot outlet. Still do the same but continur 12-3 to the last light then..12-2 to the last outlet?
Thanks
deloid
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deloid wrote:


Not getting what you mean there? If it's on the run from the switches, *both* hots on that 12-3 are going to be switched, there is no way to pull "constant hot" from there.

Nope. That's going to give you a switched outlet. You need to re-route your "incoming" power through there *first*, before it gets to the switches, or "pass through" the switch boxes and send it back out to the outlet.
The stuff you're flying in the ceiling (the red and black circuits of the 12-3, and the 12-2 going to the can(s)) is *all* switched.
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First thing that is needed is adequate box space. Install the deepest 2-gang box you can. If everything is pigtailed and grounded right you'll have an easier job of it.
Joe
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