surround sound "pre-wire"

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If this is the wrong board for this, please comment.
I just purchased a new construction home. I purchased a surround sound pre-wire. This has left the wires dangling from dry wall... I was expecting some hookups for my speakers, not loose wires...
in addition the new stereo cabinet I bought has moved the receiver too far from the point where the wires could connect directly into the receiver. So a "face plate" was suggested to hook the wires behind the drywall into the face plate, then hook my receiver into the face plate.
third issue is the sub woofer is wired with coaxial cable (not RCA connections). I was told I could purchase a face plate which would convert co ax signal/ cable to an RCA plug.
My system includes:
pioneer receiver (RCA inputs for sub woofer) yamaha front speakers bose center speaker (needs RCA connection) infinity rear spreakers
My pre wire has 7 dry wall wire locations:
1&2) rear left and right speakers (these could hook right into rear speakers, but looks tacky coming out of dry wall.... thoughts?
3 and 4) front left and right speakers (one of these can hook directly into speaker, other wire might be a couple inches short, and these also look tacky comming stright out of dry wall.
5) center channel wire (I just realized I haven't pulled this wire out to see if it will reach my center channel)
6) sub woofer coaxial cable coming out of dry wall. My sub woofer cannot accept this cable
7) a 7th location which has the wires routed through it- 5 speaker wires and coaxial cable none of which reach my receiver and the co-ax needs to be converted to RCA.
If anyone has any experience dealing with a problem like this, please let me know.
best regards.
jIM
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By definition "pre wire" does not include trim. Or was your contract different? Surely you ASKED for details before paying for something....
I had a friend pay a builder for the same "service". It took us 3 days to get all of the pieces and parts to put his "pre-wire" into a finished product. He at least got a mud ring with a blank plate. He verified twice at my urging, the wires that were going to be pulled. They did not pull anything for the sub woofer. So that ended up on the punch list.... Lots of ruck.
Typically all of these wires are made up to a cover plate with a connection. Then a new wire is run from the cover plate/connector to the unit. Just a lot of splices as far as I can see.
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I asked several times and there were two pressing issues:
1) if I had to tear up any carpet to run my wires, my wife would kick me out, disown me, or otherwise make my life miserable.
2) the sales lady knew little and NO ONE answered my questions as we went into close. I am capable of fixing this, but am looking for opinions on how to fix it.
I asked for this to be on the punch list, but the builder refused to take responsbility (the builder referred me to the contractor, who did not return calls).
the speakers were bought at different times- I've had the infinity speakers for more than 15 years. They lasted through high school, college, all my apartments, and my condo. The yamaha's were on sale, bought them, same for the bose. I plan my purchases accordingly.
coax is used for some sub woofers nowadays, so I'm told. Not wrong, just an issue.
can anyone here verify that I can buy cover plates, screw these into the wall, and connect to cover plates?
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Yes, you can buy these things, and unless you're a total klutz, you're often better off doing these finishing touches yourself, as opposed to having an electrician do it.
How far do you live from a real stereo store? Not Best Buy or Circuit City, but a specialty store. Get out the yellow pages and get in the car.
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Who did YOU have a contract with? That's the party responsible. If it was the builder and he contracted it out then it's still the builder's responsibility. Whose name is on what YOU signed?

Most faceplates. An F-type connector provides a much more secure connection. They make cables that'll use it. Or they make adapters you can buy. I'd much rather have f-type connections on the wall that are securely attached to the in-wall wire than some fragile thing on the faceplate. If anything I'd go with connections that are f-type on the back side of the faceplate and RCA female, banana plug or screw terminals on the front. It all depends on what's being connected.

Sure, they even make modular faceplates that'd let you mix-and-match whatever connectors you need.
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The builder told me the contract was with Guardian and the Guardian sales rep quit the week we closed, so no anwers were ever given.
I told the builder they referred me to Guardian and the builder said tough luck. Dixon builders definitely licks rocks. My super for Dixon is awesome, though. He referred me to Home depot and best buy.
I have the face plates for the walls alrready hooked in. I have some of my speakers hooked to them now. I have a master face plate I found at Best Buy (has 6 inputs in one 5x5 plate for center, left front and rear, right front and rear, and a 6th aux speaker.
My biggest issue now is trying to hook up the wall wires to this plate- the gold "rods" don't have the holes so slide the copper wire into before screwing down the "rods" to secure the wire. If this problem gets solved, I think I will have everything ready to go.
I bought a y cable to get my sub woofer single output from the receiver to the left-right input on the sub woofer. I am bypassing the coax within the wall- saved me buying a couple of cables and the sub woofer is about 3 ft from the receiver anyway. The left-right hookups on the sub woofer suggest it's "input2". Any thoughts if this will effect performance?
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jIM wrote:

Some receivers have lfe(low frequency effect)RCA jack which is for sub. Also you can adjust crossover freq on the receiver or at sub end if it has the feature(usually it has gain and cross over freq. adjusting pots) If you don't have lfe jack then tapping off the left RCA audio is common practice. Low frequency does not really have stereo effect. Most speaker wire binder is either by thumb screw or banana plug combination. Tony
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My pre-wire deal included boxes and face plates for front speakers but back speakers are wires behind sheetrock someplace.

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jIM wrote:

One thing, you never use coax for speaker hook up. Very wrong! Sounds like they messed it up pretty good. And I wonder why you mixed speakers with different brands?(none of my business anyhow) Ever considered in wall mounting speakers? Or wireless speaker hook up? I have wired 9.1 surround system myself. I used mounting plate behind speakers on the wall. Floor standing ones, I used speaker stand. They don't have to be geometrically symetrical, you can calibrate them after installation manually or automatically(if your receiver has this feature) I found out manual calibration is better. Try home theater NG as well. Good luck. Tony
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Coax is sometimes used for subwoofer. Very common.

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It sounds like he has an internally powered subwoofer, so he's sending preamp level signal via the coax. This isn't a problem.
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On Tue, 20 Dec 2005 17:01:15 GMT, "Doug Kanter"

In that case I retract what I said about no coax for speaker wires.
Because actually these wouldn't be speaker wires. They are wires to a pre-amp or amp.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also.
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Tony Hwang wrote:

Well I am getting a high end system wired into my new house that we will start construction on in the next 60 days. The AV consultant I have hired is using 75ohm Coax wiring for ALL speaker wiring.
In this case, the consultant is handling the ENTIRE wiring end to end, working with the builder to get everything right.
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Robert Gammon wrote:

hehe. Leave it to the professionals m8. No way he is using *75* ohm coax wiring for *8* ohm speakers ;) The 75 ohm stuff will be for the Cable TV, and it had better be quad shielded RG6 for inwall runs.
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dnoyeB wrote:

subwoofers. The 7.x part, ignoring the subwoofers is shielded twisted pairs. Having a 75ohm connection to the subwoofer makes sense as it is a low voltage signal like the baseband audio from VCRs, cable boxes and the like. All those cables, at least the better ones are 75ohm coax cables for reduced interference. Shielding is quite common in cables that cost $20 or mroe each for 6 foot pairs.
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For the walls you can cut out a rectangle around the protruding wires and install some "old work" telecom rings. They are yellow/orange and can be picked up at HD. You can fasten regular leviton wall plates to those that have the spaces for clipping in speaker connectors.
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the builders superintendant had some cases put in pre-dry wall (for $50). I have good rectangular cutouts already. This is looking like a good decision. I think all I need are the cover plates...
thank you for reply and confirmation.
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I just bought some "old work" telecom rings and leviton faceplates yesterday for a structured wiring install that I'm planning.
Go here: http://www.hometech.com /
The website's a bit clunky and hard to navigate, but they have what you need.
J.A. Michel

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You might also check around for connectors made by Monster Cable. The gold plating's pretty, but the real attraction might be somewhat more rugged plastic parts.
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On 20 Dec 2005 08:16:00 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

I havent' seen yellow/orange, but I've seen galvanized.

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