Supporting Cast Iron DWV Pipe

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Wayne Whitney wrote:

There are a myriad of hangers available -- see the following link for some styles...your local plumbing supply is bound to have or be able to get whatever you want...
http://www.nibco.com/cms.do?id=2&pId 
I'd _still_ go w/ the tape, even if I used it to simply fashion the hook ... :)
imo, $0.02, etc., etc., etc., ...
--
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Why not just cut 2x4 and nail it under the pipe between the joists? At the low end, nail it above the pipe and nail on strapping under the pipe.
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Bob F wrote: ...

I know, I know!!! --make N 2x6 (8?, I forget what Wayne said joists were) blocking to fit between and lay out the rise and lateral shift along the run and drill. Slide on, lift into place and nail! <V,VBG>
--
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You know, now that you mention it I need to have blocking in between the joists in at least 2 places anyway. So I may actually just do that! Joists are 2x10.
Cheers, Wayne
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While I can see your point about the noise (it isn't that much more), I keep wondering just how many cast iron joints you have done. The job is not 'simple' and takes a few special tools. Even done by professionals doesn't gaurantee a leak proof joint over the course of years.
Harry K
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Precisely zero. But modern cast iron is no-hub, I'm pretty sure it is just like using Mission rubber couplers to join dissimilar pipes, and I'm plenty familiar with that.
Cheers, Wayne
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Wayne Whitney wrote:

You have done your homework :-)
Fernco has a .pdf on the No-Hub coupling series here: http://www.fernco.com/docs/NoHub_Flyer.pdf
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wrote:

Correct. We just had some cast iron installed at work. Code does not allow for plastic in commercial/industrial facilities and it was all put together with Fernco parts.
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why not just run pvc?
s

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