Suggestions for drywall joint repair.

This damage is the result of a piss poor job of re-roofing a house. The roof has been repaired and we have verified there is no more leakage. Now to repair the damage. The damage is at a horizontal drywall joint. I have verified from the attic that there is no mold/mildew/etc. Just discolored drywall. We live in a very dry climate, thank goodness.
Do you all have any suggestions for repairing this area? It's about 16" of exposed joint. I have removed all of the loosened texture and joint compound.
Should I try to patch with drywall compound and tape, or is there an easier(and as effective) method?
Thanks for any help.
Pictures:
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG01.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG02.JPG
http://www.tekn0lust.com/images/IMG03.JPG
Thanks, tM
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Your going to be in for some work here. I would use fiberglass mesh after spraying with "Kils", then tape and smooth. The texture is and different subject. I would hire it done, I am really crappy at finish work with that stuff.
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SQLit wrote:

Thanks for your reply. I'm starting to think this is definitly a job for hire.
What is "Kils"?
tM
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themeanies wrote:

He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the waterstains do not bleed through.
--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
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<< He meant "Kilz". It is a stainblocking paint, so that the waterstains do not bleed through. >>
Adhesion of joint compound to Kilz may not be as good as to raw gypsum. May be better to put Kilz on as top coat before paint? Just speculating...
Joe
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Joe Bobst wrote:

I have never had that problem, but if he is going to blow acoustic over everything, then there probably won't be any paint.
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Rimshot, Inc.
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This is a simple job that a person with basic home repair skills should be able to handle, without needing a pro. I'm sure a web search will turn up lots of info on the steps to do it right.
Basicly, you need to remove any loose tape, debris, etc. Apply joint compound and tape over the joint, i like the mesh type tape the best. Smooth it out as best you can, it doesn't need to be perfect. After it's dry, you put on a second coat of joint compount that is thinner and wider, using a wider blade. A third coat may be necessary too. The idea is to use a wider blade each time and taper it out so that the compound is thinner at the edges, thick enough in the middle so it covers the tape. The final blade should be about 9 inchs or so. Then sand.
If there are stains beyond the area you coated, then use a stain killer to prime the area.
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If you looked at his pictures you would see that the surrounding area has popcorn texture. Your suggestions will work well on a flat area, not with popcorn around it!

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From experience - the biggest challenge here is matching the popcorn surface after effecting the seam repair. I gave up and removed the popcorn on my project. Good luck.

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Joe Fabeitz wrote:

That is exactly what everyone is telling me. I can see how tough it would be to match.
tM
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