Baldor is top of the line and well balanced. I keep my really good stone on the Baldor and it is used only for drill bits and other fine sharpening tasks. I have some coarser wheels on an arbor shaft driven by a slower motor that are used for heavy grinding and shaping.
I'm in my early twenties and I've already learned it's best, when it comes to tools, to get the right tool, which will last you thirty years.
I don't want to buy more than one bench grinder.
I can find a bunch on Harbor Freight and at Sears and Home Depot, etc., but I don't know WHAT to look for.
Any suggestions?
I'm sure you'll ask WHAT I need to do with it. What I need right now it so shape some Delrin and HDPE plastic but in the future, it would be used for regular home use - whatever purpose that would be (metal, wood, plastic).
Any pointers as to either WHERE to get the best price best bench grinder, or what size or wheels to get? (Seems like that buffing wheel would be useless but maybe it has a use; otherwise I'd just get two different grit stones).
I don't know who makes the best grinder itself, but my advice to you is to not mount it on a bench at all, but on a pedestal. Got one at HF on sale a couple years ago for $30 but I think that I will replace the vertical bit with some sprinkler pipe because it's a little wobbly, and the clamp screws are some really cheezy bits that I'll have to replace with 8.8 at the same time.
My point being, however, that a grinder is much more useful when you aren't limited by a bench. even more so if you think you may be using it for buffing. (the buffing wheels are used for stuff like polishing stainless trim; something you may not have a need for unless you're, say, restoring old cars...)
My personal bench grinder is a Delta brand one that I bought maybe 10-15 years ago at some big box store; I don't know if it's that great, but I don't use it that often, either.
nate
At
What size wheel do most people recommend for the next twenty years' worth of occasional grinding at home?
The speed seems to vary from 1500, 1800, 3000, and 3600 rpm; should the speed I opt for be much of a concern to me?
And the horsepower seems to vary from 1/2, 1/3, 1 1/2, 2, 3, 5, and 7 1/2 HP (although most of the 110 volt ones seem to be in the 1/2 to 3/4 HP range). Is 1/2HP reasonable for a shop grinder?
Lastly, I will most likely opt for single-phase 110 volts (because I don't know if I'll always have dual-phase 220 available) but is there any really good reason for 220 volts (which I do currently have available) for "normal" shop grinder use?
I previously bought the package of something like 200 assorted bits for my dremel tool and it seems like almost 199 of the bits in that package are those white cotton useless buffing wheels!). :(
Since I don't think I'll need the buffing wheel, may I ask what GRIT you guys go for when you buy a wheel?
And, do you think it's a good idea to get a combination belt sander (maybe 2 inches wide?) with the grinder instead of the buffing wheel?
On 10/27/2010 9:21 PM Mel Knight spake thus:
I'll just answer these two:
Yes. Unless you set up a welding shop and need to grind really big pieces of metal, 1/2 horse is *plenty*. 1/4 would work fine.
Forget three-phase (and it's generally referred to as 240 volts nominal, twice 120). Regular old 120 is fine.
Just get a cheap 110v 1/2 hp grinder if you're using it for occasional home use.
6" wheels will do fine. I prefer a flex light, but don't have one on my current grinder. I prefer a quench "bucket" but don't have one on my current grinder. You can rig a light if you need it, and get a container of water for quenching. Make sure it has decent tool rests.Don't bother with a pedestal if you have 5-6' feet on each side of the grinder at its height.. Just takes up floor space. In my last house I put a shelf on a brick wall to hold the grinder. Now I have one lag screwed on the corner of a workbench. Last was 8", now I have a 6". No difference for what I do with it. I use it mostly for sharpening shovels, mower blades and chisels. But it serves other purposes once in a while. Great for dressing screwdrivers, deburring, etc. I keep coarse and fine wheels on it.
Somebody said have 2 grinders, and that's not a bad idea if you use a grinder a lot. A grinder wire wheel comes in real handy, but I've taken to using a drill wire wheel when I need wire. Mostly because I don't want to change wheels. I'd never put wood or soft metal on a grinder wheel - anymore. But if you're going to clog up the wheel, or wear it down unevenly, maybe get yourself a dressing tool. Might be cheaper to just buy a new wheel though. Only wheel dresser I had I got free.
You don't want to "overbuy" on a grinder for home use. Because it just doesn't get used much.
--Vic
The de-industrialization of the U.S. has put a lot of pedestal grinders out of work. You may pick up a heavy duty used one at places like this:
I have a drill wire wheel but I've never used it. I guess if I polished or cleaned metal, it could be useful. I can't think of any other use for the wire brush; so I wasn't thinking of putting one on the grinder.
What's a good "grit" for household use for a grinding wheel?
In my searches, I saw multi-tool combination grinders with belt sanders (1", 2", and 4" belts) which seem ideal for wood. I generally avoid a tool that tries to do too much because it doesn't do any job well; but for a grinder, which I admit, is used probably once a month for a few minutes, maybe a combination tool is usable.
Do people recommend these combination tools?
- Wheel grinder + belt sander (+ some even have disc sanders with miter trays).
The combination tool I'm looking at currently has this spec:
- Wheel = 8" x 1 5/8", 60 grit medium
- Belt = 4" x 48" (or 36"), 5300 SFM
- Motor = 3/4 HP, 115/230Volts, 3450 RPM
Do folks recommend combination tools? What's a good grit if you have only one grinding wheel?
Good response from Vic.
Cupla things, tho.
A pedestal grinder is just a bench grinder on its own stand. What hasn't been mentioned is the VIBRATION, which is due to wheels and their bushings, NOT the grinder itself, even a crappy grinder. And once these goddamm wheels go out of balance, it's difficult to fix. This vibration can shake every tool off the bench onto the floor, unless the bench is VERY heavy, solid, and even THEN it's very disconcerting and annoying.
Now, the smaller the grinder, the less of an issue this is, but it is almost NEVER a non-issue.
Heh, and the pedestals are consderably more expensive than the grinder itself. But, my best pedestal I made myself, out of a good-sized plate (mebbe 1/4" x
18 x 14 or sumpn), that I can actually *step* on, for stabilization. The vertical was just angle iron, the top a smaller plate, with a gusset or two. Put rubber/cork underneath.If you can't weld this, get plumbing pipe and plumbing flanges, screwed to a good section of 3/4 ply. Pedestals have the advantage of being movable, for awkward stuff, as well.
I take alladat shit off grinders: lights, which never work anyway, tool rests, guards -- which I know many will caution against.
If you want accurate sharpening, get a slow-rpm "wet wheel", $30 from sears. THIS can stay on a bench, is really handy for small drill bits, scissors, things that a bench grinder would just eat up.
Get a separate goose-neck lite, or even a cheap magnifying lamp, from Staples. Have an extra switch handy, cuz the operative word is CHEAP, from effing staples.
I use just a coarse wheel, for most stuff, altho I have three grinders. If your stuff is going to be drill bits, screwdriver tips, lite stuff, get a fine or med wheel, but if you just want to remove material, shitty welds, etc, coarse is good. I use a coarse wheel on screwdriver tips as well, often using the side of the wheel for lite stuff, which most will caution against, but which is OK imo for very lite stuff.
Vic's right about wire wheels -- great to have. I bought three coarse wire wheels, ganged them on one arbor for more area. Sears, of course, and not cheap.
You can also mount two diff. grit wheels on the same arbor.
8" is about the biggest grinder you will find. Bigger than that will be $$, as will the wheels. Definitely put an 8" on a pedestal. rpms and 110V are standard, not much choice there.A combo belt sander is a good idea, and generally IS bench mounted. Not a "replacement" for buffing wheels, per se, but certainly will give more uniform finishes over wider areas, AND is more versatile, material-wise. Get a 4", Sears again. Or HF, if you feel like gambling.
Like outlets, most shops can't have enough grinders. But one is certainly a start.
Oh, the 30 year thing.... forget about dat. Just get through the day.
Here's an option: You may be able to get away with a benchtop drill press (some are pretty substantial, with 5/8 chucks), and mount a grinding wheel on an arbor. Ditto wire wheels. You can also buy a wide variety of these with integral shafts, basically like super-big dremel stuff.
You could then have a whole selection of quickly changeable wheels, AND with variable rpm! You could even get the wheel to spin like a trad'l bench grinder by just tipping over the drill press.
Thanks. I'm going to go with 120volts.
One thing confuses me about the "functional" difference of a motor under
120 versus 220 volts.When I look at the specs for dual-voltage single-phase motors, the horsepower is the same for both voltages. So is the RPM. The "only" thing in the specs that's different is the current halves.
What's the "effective" difference in function of a dual-voltage grinder if it's set up at 115 versus 220? Anything meaningful?
Sounds perty neat. Got a link? I know the sanders with the side sanding wheel/miter ditty, but I've never seen one with a sep. grinding wheel. Seems like it might be great for you.
Why, medium, of course.
Mel Knight wrote: ...
... Only meaningful difference is that the supply current is halved as said. Makes supply voltage drop/losses smaller and avoids potential for circuit overload/trip on smaller (15A) circuits.
Other than that, the difference is inconsequential.
--
220 V has slightly greater efficiency, less start up draw, and 220 inherently "balances" the load across the hot service wires entering the house, spares the neutral load. A motor wired for 220 might last a little longer, ito motor windings. The greater efficiency at 220V also means the motor should run a little cooler, esp. in multiple start/stop situations.
Becomes more important as motor size increases, but for what you are talking about, is pretty much moot.
Also, I suspect any grinder wired for 220 will be much higher bucks, as you start entering the "industrial" class.
-- EA
It's a JET Tools bench grinder & belt sander, Model 2685-0702, $500
Baldor
nb
Better yet, buy a Baldor 3" vert belt sander. You'll use it more and on more different applications. We called ours the Mexican milling machine. If you still need a grinder for some obscure reason, jes get a cheapy from HF. It can gather cobwebs while you work the crap outta the belt sander.
nb
Obscure reason??!!
I agree you can do a lot of nice stuff on a belt, but an 8" coarse wheel on a pedestal lets you do the shit work, and spare the belt -- grinding down screw heads, welds, chamfering 1/8 HRS, etc.
I've had the same 8" coarse wheel for over 10 years! I go through belts like paper towels.
Baldor is too high-end for the OP, unless he really is insistent on that 30 years thing.
"Vic Smith" wrote
The other day, I had to make a 4" wide scraper to weld on to an SDS bit for floor scraping of old grout. It was 3/8" x 2" flat bar. I adjusted the rest, and went to grinding an edge. Put it right in the wheel and came up with a nice looking hollow ground effect.
I COULD NOT CHOKE DOWN THE GRINDER. It is a two wheel Skil, an old one. First grinder I have used in a very long time that I could not make stop by pushing metal in there.
I say don't underbuy and have some wimpy POS that won't do that occasional job where nothing else will work. Plus burning it up from overloading.
Steve
Heart surgery pending? Read up and prepare. Learn how to care for a friend.
I have a drill wire wheel but I've never used it. I guess if I polished or cleaned metal, it could be useful. I can't think of any other use for the wire brush; so I wasn't thinking of putting one on the grinder.
CY: As a locksmith, I use the bench grinder wire wheel for taking burrs off cut keys. I've also found it handy for taking rust off of tools, etc.
What's a good "grit" for household use for a grinding wheel?
CY: I don't know the numbers, but fine grit works well for most things. My grinder is from BJ's Wholesale club, from about 1985. I'd have to look see if I can tell what brand it is. I think it is 1/3 HP. I use it for burrs on keys, and sharpening t hings like drill bits.
CY: Naah, wood is for wood shaping equipment. Grinders also don't do soft metal. Iron, or steel only please.
In my searches, I saw multi-tool combination grinders with belt sanders (1", 2", and 4" belts) which seem ideal for wood. I generally avoid a tool that tries to do too much because it doesn't do any job well; but for a grinder, which I admit, is used probably once a month for a few minutes, maybe a combination tool is usable.
CY: I've never had a belt sander. I'm with you, keep tools simple.
Do people recommend these combination tools?
- Wheel grinder + belt sander (+ some even have disc sanders with miter trays).
The combination tool I'm looking at currently has this spec:
- Wheel = 8" x 1 5/8", 60 grit medium
- Belt = 4" x 48" (or 36"), 5300 SFM
- Motor = 3/4 HP, 115/230Volts, 3450 RPM
Do folks recommend combination tools? What's a good grit if you have only one grinding wheel?
CY: That may work well for you. Since you mention doing wood and plastic. 3/4 is plenty of HP for most jobs. I'd go with the 115 volt model, only about 600 watts or so.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.