Stuuborn leak on new bath sink tailpiece

I replaced a friends bathroom sink tailpiece yesterday and I am having problems with a leak in the pipe with fine threads that goes into the main body of the tailpipe. It is part RP 6128 in the pic below.

formatting link

When I first installed the tailpiece, it leaked. So I removed it and used teflon tape, still leaked. Then I used Rectorseal teflon pipe seal, still leaked.

So I thought maybe I have a defective pipe. So I got a new one,put it in, same thing, still leaks. Any ideas? I'm ready to put 5 minute Epoxy on this thing if i can't stop this leak.

Reply to
Mikepier
Loading thread data ...

use silicone bathtub caulk, the stuff you put around the tub. be generous, and its easy to remove in the future but seals great.

I had a leaky toilet tank that leaked at the bolts just a little.

finally gave up and called a plumber/

he used the silicone goo, at first assembly.

no leaks:)

Reply to
bob haller

Sometimes a factor in this is that it's either not tight enough or too tight. How are you tightening it up?

Reply to
trader4

Make sure the leak is not from the trip lever packing nut or fittings above.

Reply to
Mr.E

Just hand tight at first. When it leaked, I tightened it a bit more with a wrench, but not at the top where I could risk bending the pipe, but rather down at the bottom. I took the P-trap out and put my channel locks not around the pipe, but I grabbed the inner and outer part of the pipe and gave it a little twist.

Reply to
Mikepier

Mike,

Water flows down hill, so wrap each connection, one at a time, starting at the top with toilet paper, then run the water. This will help you locate the joint that's leaking. I'd look carefully at the pivot seat. Assuming that you are right and the mainbody/tailpiece joint is leaking, I'd return the mainbody. You've already eliminated the tailpiece as the cause of the leak. These are low pressure connections and should be easy to make leak-free unless something is broken or not tightened

Dave M.

Reply to
David L. Martel

Sounds like it's leaking above the tailpiece, probably around RP23060. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

Its's not. That part is ok. I see drops of water coming out of where the threaded pipe meets the main body. Not a lot, but enough to notice.

Reply to
Mikepier

Seems impossible, unless the downstream part of the P-trap is higher than where the tailpiece joins it... or your tailpiece doesn't extend sufficiently into the P-trap.

You've taped a joint that doesn't need taping and still your leak persists. Something is wrong, and it can't be gravity. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

I'm also virtually certain after reading description below it's just not tight...

Tape and tighten--it's tapered thread so has to be tight. If it's chromed use a rag to keep from knicking the plating and use the force, luke...

Reply to
dpb

If it were me, I would:

A) Wrap those fine threads with teflon tape and then tighten the joint. I realize they're not tapered threads, but the teflon tape will at least stop the leak.

B) Next time use a WALTEC tail piece. Waltec taile pieces are a single piece unit that can't leak. They use a big rubber washer at the bottom of the sink which can be difficult to put on if you don't know to use silicone caulk as a lubricant when assembling the tail piece onto the sink. If you slather up that Waltec tail piece with silicone caulk, you can slide that rubber washer on no problem.

Reply to
nestork

This is a thin pipe, it seems it will bend easy or become out of round if I use a lot of force on it, making the leak worse.

Reply to
Mikepier

tape isn't generally used to make it seal, but to make it slippery so yo can tighten it some more. they make a sealant putty for this.

Reply to
chaniarts

tailpiece yesterday and I am having > problems with a leak in the pipe wit h fine threads that goes into the > main body of the tailpipe. It is part R P 6128 in the pic below. >

formatting link
fpop1.gif > > When I first installed the tailpiece, it leaked. So I removed it and > used teflon tape, still leaked. Then I used Rectorseal teflon pip e > seal, still leaked. > > So I thought maybe I have a defective pipe. So I got a new one,put it > in, same thing, still leaks. Any ideas? I'm ready to put 5 minute > Epoxy on this thing if i can't stop this leak. > tape isn 't generally used to make it seal, but to make it slippery so yo can tighte n it some more. they make a sealant putty for this.

Lowes has a teflon sealer that is a white thick liquid in a can with a brus h. Can sized about like the pvc glue. Works pretty well for me in these s ituations.

Reply to
jamesgang

Please stop repeating that "suburban legend".

Tape IS for sealing, it's meant to take up the "designed in" clearance between internal & external tapered threads.

Reply to
DD_BobK

As nestork points out....

tail piece threads are not tapered threads and as such, the joint is not meant for tape.

BUT tape can sometimes work in these situations. I had a stubborn tail piece installation and used heavy silicone vacuum grease to seal it.

An alternative that would work... RectorSeal #2 Soft Set But I think #2 is no longer available, replaced by #2 Plus Teflon (everything's gotta have teflon in it!)

Reply to
DD_BobK

Reply to
cpopolo

Your problem is not uncommon. I worked as a plumber for quite a few years. Those fine threads were a common source of trouble. I often wondered why they designed them like that. Anyhow, there is a simple solution. Make sure both pieces are dry. Then put a thick coating of silicone caulk on both the male and female threads, and tighten it firmly. Let the silicone dry before running water or disturbing that pipe, for at least an hour.

PROBLEM SOLVED!

By the way: The epoxy will probably work too, but you'll never be able to take it apart again. With the silicone, you can unscrew it, but not easily. But it's unlikely you'll even need to unscrew it anyhow. By that time, you'll probably replace it again.

One final thought. Pipe threads such as on a steel pipe, have a taper to them, which is why they seal as they are tightened. Those fine threads on those drain pipes have no taper. It's poor design! It should say on the package to use silicone. (Or be re-designed at the factory).

Reply to
Jerry.Tan

Do you suppose that Mikepier is still waitnig for an answer, some 20 months after he worked on the sink. In that case you should probably also tell him how to repair the floor. :)

You might also want to get a real newsreader and stop using Google Groups, so that you can see the actual current discussions.

Reply to
Mayayana

replying to Jerry.Tan, DEH wrote: Thank you for the tip. I have been taking my drain assembly apart and reassembling it for 2 days now and it still leaks! Tonight I'm using silicone!!

Reply to
DEH

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.