I need to replace a burned out bulb that I can't remove. It was in an outd
oor hanging fixture that had an old bee hive so I thought it might be stuck
with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the soc
ket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted ha
rd. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't bu
dge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket altoge
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 7:46:54 AM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
ck with honey. I turned off the power and repeatedly sprayed up into the s
ocket with hot water for 10 minutes then put on leather gloves and twisted
hard. I really thought the bulb would break off in my glove but it didn't
budge. Anyone got any ideas for me to try before I replace the socket alto
1 - Turn off the power, at the breaker to be extra safe.
2 - Put a zip-lock or other "heavy duty" bag over the bulb and break
3 - Use a pair of pliers to bend the edge of base inwards until you have
enough to grab and then twist it out.
(Turning the fixture off at the switch is not the safest method unless
you are 100% sure that it will kill all power to the fixture. There are
situations where they can still be power at the fixture even with the
switch turned off.)
I was going to suggest this, but I figured since it was stated that "I
turned the power off" instead of "I turned it off" or "I turned the
light off" I took that to mean at the breaker. With so many folks here
so ready to jump all over somebody for stating the obvious I decided
not to post.
The other point I would have made had I posted then, was to bend in two
opposite edges of the bulb's base and use the long-nosed pliers in the
same way a spanner wrench would be used. I've had to do this with
several outside fixtures due to corrosion.
On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:56:13 -0400, FromTheRafters wrote:
As a last resort. After breaking off the glass parts, you might save
some time by just wrapping a few turns of duct tape around the end of a
broom handle *sticky side out*, and then a ring sticky side in anchoring
the 'outie' duct tape. This also gives you a good reach so you don't
need to climb a stepladder with the pliers.
Either way, follow up with sandpaper (sandy side out) duct-taped to the
broom handle to clean corrosion off the contacts. I would also then
duct-tape a rag to the broom handle and dampen it to clean out the grit.
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 9:56:21 AM UTC-4, FromTheRafters wrote:
Many years ago a neighbor asked me to change the fixture outside his
front door. I asked him if the power was off and he said yes.
I swapped out the fixture and told him to turn the power back on. He
reached inside the door and flipped the switch. That was my fault,
I should have been more specific.
When it comes to electricity, or anything else that can kill someone,
"stating the obvious" should always be done. If someone jumps on you
for that, tell them to go pound sand.
Never trust anyone when it comes to the power. I have one of the
'wireless' touch testers and check for power, turn it off and check
again. I use either it or some other type of tester to make sure there
is no power on anything I touch. If possiable put some kind of lock
device on the switch/breaker.
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On Fri, 12 Aug 2016 09:26:36 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
off and LOCKED off, assume it is live and treat it accordingly.
After hearing about an electrician pulling a meter to change a panel,
only to have a carpenter on the job re-install the meter so he could
use a saw, my dad locked removed meters in his truck.
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 3:06:29 PM UTC-5, email@example.com wrote:
Thanks to all for comments and advice. I went to HD and bought a small can
of WD40 with the little red straw to direct the stream exactly where I wan
t it. Sprayed all up inside the base, waited 20 minutes, bulb wouldn't bud
ge, repeated, and now I can rock the bulb socket a lot more but it still wo
n't twist. I especially like the idea of pinching the base of the open soc
ket toward the center with needle nose. This should create a way to exert
a lot more twisting force on the stuck base.
I took out the Leviton push button dimmer switch and found that it won't cl
ose. Maybe the old bulbs were ok to start with but now I want to be able t
o replace them normally. I put wire nuts on the live hot and neutral leads
in the switch box that operates the lights so the socket must be dead now
and I'll get my wife to help me find the breaker before installing the new
On Friday, August 12, 2016 at 4:43:42 PM UTC-4, Bob Simon wrote:
ant it. Sprayed all up inside the base, waited 20 minutes, bulb wouldn't b
udge, repeated, and now I can rock the bulb socket a lot more but it still
won't twist. I especially like the idea of pinching the base of the open s
ocket toward the center with needle nose. This should create a way to exer
t a lot more twisting force on the stuck base.
to replace them normally. I put wire nuts on the live hot and neutral lea
ds in the switch box that operates the lights so the socket must be dead no
w and I'll get my wife to help me find the breaker before installing the ne
Good God No! Do not enlist your wife to help you find the breaker. Hire a
teenager, rent a day-worker, call your brother, better yet call a complete
stranger...anybody but your wife. It can only end in disaster.
The mapping of circuits in a house has the same documented 'relationship
casualty rate' as wallpapering.
Husband: (at breaker box, yelling through the duct work) "Is it off?"
Wife: (at far end of house) "What?"
Husband: "I said, IS IT OFF?"
Wife: "I meant, Is *WHAT* off?"
Husband: "What? Did you say "It's not off"?"
Husband: "No, it's not off" or "No, you didn't say it's not off?"
Wife: "ARRRRGGGHHHH I hate this!"
Aug 2016 20:43:38 GMT in alt.home.repair, wrote:
Hmm...I think at this point, if it were me, I'd just proceed to replace
the socket. I suspect you're going to find that it's severely corroded
if you do manage to free the base of the bulb. A socket in this
condition would only cost you money in premature lightbulb deaths.
MID: <nb7u27$crn$ firstname.lastname@example.org>
Hmmm. I most certainly don't understand how I can access a copy of a
Electrician friend was wiring some at a church. He had pulled the
meter. For some reason a power company man came by and saw the meter
out. He put it back in. Good thing the friend only got a mild shock
before he checked and found the meter had been installed.
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I've done this several times with good success. A few weeks ago, the
aluminum socket was so badly damaged by the time I got the shell out, it
was necessary to replace the whole fixture.
That bulb was outside over a seldom used door. It had probably been
there about 65 years.
I don't understand how a corroded socket would lead to premature bulb failu
re. The only possible effect that I can think of due to socket corrosion i
s reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the socke
t. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from th
On Tuesday, August 16, 2016 at 11:52:56 PM UTC-4, email@example.com wrote:
is reduced heat transfer from the bulb to the material surrounding the soc
ket. That is a negligible amount compared to the total heat radiation from
Because you put more force on the base when screwing it in.
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