stripped set screw

[J]

My tub deck faucet (two handle - cartridge type) is leaking. I can get the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and co ld, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

Is there anything to try to get this thing off short of drilling it out? I f these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take t he necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be p referable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was disco ntinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If I had stripped the thing while trying to loosen it, I'd probably give up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed i t and not me. Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply a ny torque to the thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't th ink the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

I thought of putting some super-glue on the end of an allen wrench, stickin g it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are an y better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

Thanks for any suggestions.

-J

[Dan Espen]

A few years ago I had the same problem with my kitchen faucet.

I bought a set of screw extractors and finally got the set screw out.

[Retired]

cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got stripped when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed it and not me. Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply any torque to the thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set screw instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

Take a look at this tool. It should work for you.

[J]

I forgot to mention one other problem: Because of the positioning of the handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

So I'm not sure I will be able to use a screw extractor. Come to think of it, this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

-J

[Jim Elbrecht]

handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

Replacement handles are cheap. [usually] Get your Dremel out and some fiber disks, and cut that handle out of your way.

Don't have a Dremel? All the better. . . Go buy a Dremel and some fiber disks- play with your cool new tool.

Jim

[dpb]

Right angle drill attachment--but it'll be tough drilling as the allen screw is likely hardened.

Can try modifying a standard extractor to just the length need to try to get purchase on outside; generally one small enough will have too long a taper and will bottom out before can actually grab the sides.

If not terribly corroded, getting "creative" may help...this guy's problem wasn't an allen screw, but perhaps can spark an idea or two..,

[The Daring Dufas]

J, the screw extractors work well and you can get a right angle chuck for your drill from Harbor freight. We had to buy one for a job we were on that had screws in a very hard to get at place. ^_^

TDD

[hrhofmann]

the cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot an d cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem.  Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

 If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and ta ke the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was d iscontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got strippe d when being tightened.  I swear that was done by the plumber who install ed it and not me.  Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. In any case, this means I haven't really been able to a pply any torque to the thing at all.  it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a little bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I cou ld just get a new set screw instead of two new handles.  These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny.  I don't think the wife would go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

ing it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go.  But if there ar e any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

As Jim Elbrecht said, use a Dremel motor tool or the Harbor Freight equivalent to regrind the slot in the screw. It may also put a partial slot in the handle, but you don't seem too concerned about that. Or, as others have said, just use a regular screw extractor. They are threaded to grab the screw when your drill is rotating in the reverse direction, and work fine as long as you drill a small hole in the middle of the screw to get some surface for the extractor to grab..

[trader4]

he cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that 's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

If these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two i f I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was dis continued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If it's really stripped, then drilling it out is the only option. But that shouldn't be hard. I'd soak it in penetrating oil if you haven't already. Then drill it out. Many times it will come out just doing that. If necessary, then use a screw extractor.

up right away, but it was already stripped, so, I'm guessing it got strippe d when being tightened. I swear that was done by the plumber who installed it and not me.

In a recent thread it was pointed out as a suggested technique to deal with a loose screw to bugger up the threads to tighten it up and that it was a plumber's trick. Sounded like a bad idea to me. Maybe it was done to yours...

Well, maybe it was me, but if so, I have conveniently erased that memory. I n any case, this means I haven't really been able to apply any torque to th e thing at all. it's possible (though probably not likely) that with a lit tle bit of torque, it could loosen up and then I could just get a new set s crew instead of two new handles. These are pretty fancy, so near-matching replacements would probably cost a pretty penny. I don't think the wife wo uld go for the small vice-grips-as-relpacement solution.

ing it in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

[trader4]

handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

It nust be a really big handle, if 7" of clearance isn't enough? And 7" isn't enough for a drill?

this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

[Tony Hwang]

Hmm, If I were you, I'd just take the whole fixture out and replace it with new one. Is there a guarantee screw extracter or Dremel cutting disc will work in a restricted space? How much time to spend? Time is money you know. I always look for simple easy way.

[notbob]

Plus, the faucet stem is prolly maimed, also. Probably cheaper in the long run to replace entire fixture.

nb

[Ralph Mowery]

There are 'left handed' drill bits. They are made so you run the drill in reverse. After a good day or two of soaking in the penetrating oil, a left handed bit may just grab the screw and back it out. If not, then the screw extractor can be used.

[TomR]

Seems like the allen wrench and super glue idea would be worth a try. Of course, try to keep the super glue away from the threads (but you already knew that).

Also, you said there is not much room for one of those screw removal tools. But, since it is a set screw which requires an allen wrench. maybe you don't need much room? By that, I mean that the stripped allen wrench hole already created a hole for the screw removal tool to go into -- meaning you may not need a drill to attach to the tool. Maybe just putting the tool in and using pliers etc. to turn it will allow it to grab the sides of the allen screw hole and back the set screw out.

Or, could you try jamming a small flat screw driver in that allen screw hole and try to get that to grab and back out the set screw?

Let us know how it works out.

[The Daring Dufas]

I loaned the guys my Dremel tool this week so they could cut channels in the crown molding on a job so they could put wire mold on the wall. My Dremel tool is the best thing I ever bought and so versatile. I've used it to cut out all sorts of seized screws and bolts. I once had to get a broken stud out of the head on a 15kw Onan genset and the Dremel tool was the only tool that I could use to get it out. The OP may have to use a Dremel tool to get the defective parts out for replacement. ^_^

TDD

[micky]

in there, letting it dry and then giving it a go. But if there are any better ideas, It might be prudent to try something else first.

I've never gotten anything to stick with superglue**, not even my fingers. I'd use 5 minute epoxee. Make sure it's dry first.

**I almost think it's one elaborate scam.

[micky]

handle, no matter how I turn it there's at most about 7" of clearance between it and a wall. It only makes about a quarter turn between fully closed and fully open.

this would probably also prevent me from drilling the thing out.

For diilling it out, there is the right angle attachment to the drill, though that is probably longer than 7"

And there is the flexible shaft, though htat too might be more than

7", and

finally there is the thing at Harbor Freight, which uses special hex shank drills, also sold at HF, which is definitely under 7". The think is a flexible shaft, but it ends not with a chuck with jaws, but just a socket that takes the hex-shaft drill bits. IIRC, it looks a bit like a dentist's drill. The end, not counting the drill, is only about an inch or inch and a half, and the drill adds 3 inches or so, so it will fit in our space I think. The handle of the end is 45^ up so that will take up a bit of space. I'm not sure they drill has to go in exactly straight.

But try the expoxee first.

[micky]

For the record, none of these is the angle thing I talk about last in my ot her post, but I searched HF for drill and none of the 62 hits were what I meant. Maybe they don't sell it anymore.

[micky]

cold handle off, but after alternately turning off the water to hot and cold, it seems like it's the hot one that has the problem. Naturally, that's the one that has a stripped set-screw (inset, hex slot).

these cases are generally hopeless, I'll just cut to the chase and take the necessary measures, but if there's any likely alternative, it would be preferable than having to get a new handle (I'd probably need to get two if I want matching handles, because this type is no longer made - it was discontinued when I bought it about 10 years ago.

If you drill it out with a left handed drill bit, available in a set of 4 at Harbor Freight, often the left-handed turning during the drilling will unscrew the screw at the same time. use a bit smaller than the hole so you don't mess up the threads any more than they are.

[notbob]

Somehow I don't see HF selling real HSS lefty bits. If they're not HSS, yer wasting yer time/$$$.

nb