String Trimmer Question


My 4 year old Ryobi string trimmer started acting up and I can't figure what's wrong...It starts fine and idles till it warms up then stalls but will start right back up..It also bogs down and stalls when you hit the throttle/trigger...Cleaned the air filter , changed the plug , cleaned the spark arrestor screen...No change..Also checked the gas I am using in my chainsaw and it seems fine..Gonna pick up some carb cleaner next trip into town and try that...Anything else I could check ?? Rebuilding carb would be a shop thing...Eyes aren't what they used to be and I suffer with Fat Finger Syndrome...LOL...Thanks for any help....
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On 5/16/2010 12:47 AM, benick wrote:

Is the carb adjustable? Sounds like you need to open up the HI adjustment screw just a little.
Bob
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That's what mine needs occasionally. It is leaning out as you accelerate. My Weed Eater has three screws, idle, low and high. If you can 'tease' it past the stalling and it runs OK at open throttle, it's the "low" screw. If it runs at partial throttle but not at wide open, it's the "high" adjustment.
-- DT
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Ive had quite a few motors that had the eletronic ignitions fail like that, symptoms first appeared as it warmed up, but it could be fuel related I would start by being sure no air is leaking into the motor tighten everything fuel related and look for cracked lines.
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wrote:

Ive had quite a few motors that had the eletronic ignitions fail like that, symptoms first appeared as it warmed up, but it could be fuel related I would start by being sure no air is leaking into the motor tighten everything fuel related and look for cracked lines.
Thanks for all the suggestions...Got to work today but will give them a try when I get a minute and post back with results...
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benick wrote the following:

My Ryobi trimmer requires 6 steps to get it to run. 1. Turn the handle toggle switch to On. 2. Press the primer bulb repeatedly until it fills with gas, then press a couple of times more. 3. Move the lever to Start (choke?). 4. Pull the cord until the motor starts. 5. Move the lever to Run. The motor should be running at full power. 6. Wait a few seconds and press the triggers, then release, to set it to idle. Since my trimmer is only used a few of times a year here in the NE US, I have to re-educate myself every year.
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
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Ya I know what you mean..I use it about 6-8 times a year here in Maine , though when I do get it out I do quite an area..LOL..That's why I bought a cheapo Ryobi..It has served well for 4 years which is about what I expected for 90 bucks...
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Had a Sthil (sp.) string trimmer that would not run after every winter without disassembling and flushing out the carb. It was a simple 1 1/2 inch cube of metal with ports and channels milled into it. Easy to disassemble but one had to be careful not to lose tiny parts. Once it was done (I never saw any dirt while cleaning) it would run fine until next spring even though I drained and ran it dry in the fall.
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It started acting up last summer the last time I used it so over the winter I changed the plug and cleaned the spark arrester screen with no improvement so it's not a winter storage issue..I have bought some carb cleaner and will try that and check the fuel filter..If that don't do it I will probably get another one...To cheap to mess with too much...
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I've gotten rebuild kits for those small carbs for under $10. Usually fixes them if you make sure all the passages are clear.
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I've gotten rebuild kits for those small carbs for under $10. Usually fixes them if you make sure all the passages are clear.
Like I said the eyes aren't what they used to be after cataracts and I suffer with fat finger syndrome so working on a miniature carb is out of the question...Aside from the fact I work 2 jobs and am working on the house AND mowing , trimming , ect a 3 acre lot..Time is an issue as well...Thanks for the thought , though...
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In

Your symptoms really sound like a carb adjustment is all that's needed. Usually you have to remove a plate to get at them; there will be 2 screws; one for hi speed, one for idling. Get it good and warm, rev it up and hold it there while you adjust the hi speed screw for best running sound and constant smoke emission. Then slow it down and adjust the lo speed screw until you can let go of the trigger and it'll keep running. Recheck the hi speed, the the lo if you readjust the hi, and you should be set to go! They're actually pretty easy to adjust. Which screw is which should be labeled either inside there or on the plate you have to remove. If not, there's always RTFM.
Oh, to the guy who runs the tank dry and stores over the winter: That's the wrong thing to do since the after-heat will evaporate any oil covering and things rust/gum up quickly. It's the same for any 2 cycle engine. Leave the fuel in it. Add a few drops of Stabil or any other gas stabilizer, and store it. The oil mix keeps a covering over all the parts and they won't gum/oxidize. In the spring, pour out the fuel, add fresh and you should be ready to go.
HTH,
Twayne`
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benick wrote:

Hi, Fuel tank air vent?
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When I work on trimmers that people bring me to fix, I always put in a new plug, new gas lines, clean carb by dis-assembling it, not using some sort of spray-on carb cleaner (it don't work). I make sure the gas cap vent valve is working and I make sure the fuel filter is attached inside the tank. Many times the fuel lines get mushy and the filter falls off letting the fuel line spring up above the fuel level. Do all the above correctly and it will run fine for years to come.
Hank
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I removed my spark arrestor screen and it ran like new
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wrote:

I removed my spark arrestor screen and it ran like new
I did take it apart and the screen was clean but will give it a try...I too think it's a carb issue though...Will check back with results as soon as I get a spare minute...Thanks to all who took the time to respond...
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