Steel entry door -- problem/questions

[Percival P. Cassidy]

We have steel double entry doors made by Pease. The bottom seal on the one that gets used all the time was wrecked (one of the four "fins" missing, and the others in tatters), so I bought a replacement made by M-D Building Products and marketed specifically for Pease doors: the door faces turn over at the bottom to form a channel into which matching "fingers" on the door bottom slide.

The old one slid out and the new one slid in its place just fine. The only problem is that now the door will not close. The "fins" do not seem significantly longer than those on the old seal, but there just seems to be too much material there for the space between the bottom of the door proper and the threshold. Perhaps the door had dropped a little; if so, how would I go about raising it? There does seem to be a gap of 3/32" or so at the top.

Any other suggestions?

Also: the aluminum threshold has a groove in it -- approx. 3/8" wide and closer to the inside of the house. Is this likely to have been for a rubber or vinyl seal, or is just to catch runoff? The sills of all the entry doors are the same: just empty grooves.

Perce

[dpb]

[dpb]

Percival P. Cassidy wrote: ...

Adjustable threshold is first thought -- many have an adjusting screw in the threshold to allow for some adjustment.

If the hinges are worn significantly, you would be able to lift the door a little by a bar underneath and see if there's any gap on the bottom of the hinges rather than the top -- unlikely to be much, but possible. Replacement hinges would be the easiest remedy in that case although thin shim washers could be used if they're really worn that badly (again unlikely).

Probably -- sounds too wide to have been for a seal although typically would be towards the outer edge. Does this groove drain outside?

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[Percival P. Cassidy]

Yes, I had investigated further and found that this is an adjustable threshold -- but it's already in the lowest position.

I don't see any significant gap in the hinges that would allow the use of shims. So I guess it's either new hinges (or reinstall existing hinges in different positions) or replace threshold by a lower, but still adjustable, one.

I don't *see* where it drains to the outside, but according to a patent application it is supposed to.

Perce

[dpb]

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I'm assuming this is a steel-frame as well -- if so, you're not going to reposition the hinges easily.

If the door won't close at all rather than is just difficult to close, it sounds as though you may have the wrong replacement seal kit.

Were you able to lift the door on the hinges sufficiently to make it close and fit correctly?

Nothing says the door was installed correctly... :) Seen quite a number that way where was supposed to be a detail that wasn't followed.

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[Percival P. Cassidy]

No. Wood frame.

Seal kit looks exactly the same as that on the Pease Doors Web site.

Not with the new seal in place. I suspect that it closed with the old seal in place only because the latter was in such bad shape.

I have removed the new seal again and closed the door. Now I can see a wide gap at at the bottom at the hinge side and almost none at the lock side. The gap at the top is the same all the way across. The adjustable threshold is in its lowest setting all the way across. Conclusion: the lumber supporting the aluminum threshold is bowed or swollen. I cannot see how to remove the threshold.

Perce

[dpb]

Percival P. Cassidy wrote: ...

OK, some flexibility there, then, but last choice still...

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More likely it was simply framed square on an out of level floor to begin with altho it's possible something has happened since. One disadvantage of the metal doors--can't easily trim to fit an out-of-square door to account for such realities.

May have to remove the door entirely to remove a metal threshold if it was put in and the door framed over it. But, some of the metal ones can be removed if the leveling screws are taken out. What to do specifically depends on the details which can't see from here... :)

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[Oren]

They make adjustable hinges. I've seen them on more expensive doors and work nice for fine adjustments of the door.

DAGS : adjustable door hinge.

[Oren]

I would remove a screw (jamb side), one a time and check the length. A steel door on a wood frame with small screws = problems.

Rubbing on the lock side - try a couple of four inch screws on the top hinge. Perhaps you can pull the jamb over a bit to lift the lock side.

I mentioned -adjustable door hinge.

.....Easily adjusted for door alignment after house settling

1/8" Lateral door adjustment at each hinge point

1/4" Vertical door alignment with lock down capabilities to eliminate future door movement

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