Sprinkler valve question?

I just got around to looking into getting my sprinkler system working. I've located all five valves, exposed them all and tracked all the feeds. My problem is that only one valve will flow water to it's zone. The other four valves seem to be in the closed position. I have Irritrol 205S valves. Is there a way to operate these valves manually to test them. Using my rain bird controller is not an option right now. I would just like to exercise the valves if possible. These valves to not have a manual knob or key on them.
Thanks in advance for your time...
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I just got around to looking into getting my sprinkler system working. I've located all five valves, exposed them all and tracked all the feeds. My problem is that only one valve will flow water to it's zone. The other four valves seem to be in the closed position. I have Irritrol 205S valves. Is there a way to operate these valves manually to test them. Using my rain bird controller is not an option right now. I would just like to exercise the valves if possible. These valves to not have a manual knob or key on them.
Thanks in advance for your time...
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On Jan 1, 10:12am, Rotor217_at_aol_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Serge) wrote:

Find the wire to the valve and connect the 24vac power supply directly to them. They should open then. You can use a meter to make sure you are getting 24vac at the valve and don't have any broken underground wire. Or use a known good valve and temporarily connect it. The solenoids don;t go bad on these often, it's usually a bad connection or damaged wire.
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And if you don't have a 24VAC source, buy a cheap doorbell transformer, connect it to an extension cord.
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On Jan 1, 1:39pm, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

The controller runs on 24vac so he already has 24vac.
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Yes, I realize that. But we don't know the state of the wiring between the controller and the valve, whether he has a test meter to know if he is getting 24V at the valve with proper current, or anything else. If he has a door bell transformer, he can just hook a "for sure" source directly to the valve to test it.
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On Jan 2, 9:05am, snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

Just re-thinking the above, the controllers typically use wall warts. If practical, he could temporarily unhook that from the controller and use it at the valve as well.
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On Jan 1, 7:11am, Rotor217_at_aol_dot snipped-for-privacy@foo.com (Serge) wrote:

There are two black knobs on these valves. The large one on valve center line can be used to adjust flow or completely turn off the valve manually.
Make sure this one is turned on.
The smaller knob, when turned to allow a bit of water to leak out, can be used to manually open the valve.
I think (but I'm not 100% sure) that slightly unscrewing the solenoid will also actuate the valve.
cheers Bob
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