I've had more than a few clogged, or just
useless rattle cans of spray paint over the
Does one brand work better than other brand?
Do the cans have a shelf life?
Should I shake them for some number of minutes?
On Tue, 19 Aug 2014 11:51:40 -0400, Stormin Mormon
Yes and yes
The best spray heads are the ones where you see the wire between the
top and the base of the spray head.
They can be removed and cleaned easier. The actual tip comes off the
Be sure you invert the can and blow out all the paint from the head
when you put it away. I know people who remove the heads and store
them in thinner between uses but that is a bit much for me.
When you are using an old can of paint. be sure you shake the hell out
of it. One little chunk of gummy paint coming up the tube will put you
out of business. At a certain point, you may just be throwing these
old cans away.
On 8/19/2014 12:11 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
for those. And yes, I've thrown out a lot of cans
with plenty of paint left.
One time I punctured a spray can. Figured I could
let the pressure out, then later punch bigger hole
and brush the paint on. The paint and propellant
sprayed and foamed all over the place, and I'll
never do that again.
On Tue, 19 Aug 2014 12:27:08 -0400, Stormin Mormon
I have had some luck soaking the spray head in lacquer cleaner for a
few days and poking the hole out with a very fine piece of piano wire.
The strand of an old IBM card brush is perfect but they have been
pretty hard to come by for about 40 years
The little wires that come off the cheap Dremel-clone wire brushes you get
at Harbor Freight are great for poking holes in clogged spray nozzles. You
can acquire quite a few whenever you use them (about four times until
I recently discovered you can chuck a cut-in-half Q-tip into a Dremel rotary
tool which is really useful for some cleaning apps like gunked up keyboards.
Get down to a paint store and buy some Preval sprayers. They fill with
YOUR paint and spray much better than any of the cans I've used. You
can use oil or water based paints, put a cap on the bottle to store the
leftovers and they don't cost much (price has gone up since I last
purchased one). If it is a job that matters, I use the recommended
thinner for the paint I'm using; if it doesn't matter that much, I use
water or turp. They are perfect for smaller jobs, like odd shaped stuff
and (especially) louvers. They don't seem to make as much overspray as
cans do, and don't dry as fast as the canned crap so's you can fix
booboos. I redid an old range vent hood using the P.S. and Rustoleum
enamel and it looked like new when I finished; also painted it place in
my kitchen with a little newspaper for protection.
If the nozzle is clogged you can pull it off and clean it with paint
thinner. Most hardware stores sell brand new nozzles though, so put on a new
nozzle. remember that nozzles come in sizes and you want a paint nozzle. Ask
in the paint section of the store.
If the valve had a slow leak then the propellant is gone. I don't know a
fix for that.
For that matter, you can take the nozzles off when you throw the can away
(in an EPA approved manner, of course). In the infinite wisdom of People
Who Make Stuff, there seems to be two non-interchangeable styles.
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