solving squeaky floor before installing laminate flooring?

I am trying to rid our kitchen of a squeaky linoleum floor before we install our laminate flooring over top... any advice?
I used 1 3/4" screws about every 2-3 feet to alleviate the problem., screwing them down into the subfloor (3/4" thick plywood) and into the joist below. The floor is quieter than before, but still has a number of really noisy sections. Even where I applied multiple screws, the floor seems to squeak between the joists??
any ideas/ tips/suggestions/comments?
Howie
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Are you useing a stud sensor to find the floor joist. Maybe not all the screws are hitting the joist.
Tom

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I looked up into the floor joists from below, I didn't see many missed screws...

to
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Screw every 4 inches along all joists, and every 4 inches at every panel edge (using shorter screws) and if it still squeaks then a screw on 8" centers in mid panel.
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Howie, although you certainly can install laminate overtop of the existing vinyl, I would recommend that you remove the vinyl and the 1/4" plywood underlayment before you install the laminate. If you don't, you will have a nasty transition between the new laminate floor and the existing floors in other rooms. You'll also have to re-fit around door mouldings, doors, etc.
Remove the screws you put in, they are too short to do any good--they are only 'biting' 1/2" into the joist, if they are even hitting a joist. Removing the underlayment is easy. Score it down the middle of the room with a circular saw set to about 3/8" depth, and use a cheap blade cause you may hit the odd nail. Then just pry it up with a crowbar...it's so thin it's a piece of cake.
Once you have the underlay removed you can see where the subfloor nails are for sure. Run in a screw about every 4 to 6 inches along these nail lines. Use 2 1/2 inch screws and make sure they are countersunk below the surface of the subfloor.
You can put your laminate flooring right on the subfloor. Make sure the subfloor is solid (not bouncy). If there are big cracks, use floor leveler and sand it smooth. You won't need to bother filling small cracks or screw heads, the laminate is pretty forgiving.
I just finished this process with cork-faced laminate. The squeaks are all gone, and the floor is magnificent.
Good luck.
Mr Fixit eh
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Rip out the whole upper layer of floor board? What about the same floor board that is under the cabinets?

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every 4" at every panel edge??? I don't get ya....
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I had the same problem with squeaks between the joists where there is no support between the T&G plywood. You need to get in the crawl space and put in some blockings from below to tie the two plywood sheets together.
If you do decide to remove the linoleum and have the plywood exposed then injecting penetrating epoxy from above (flows like water for dry rot applications) into the T&G sections between the joists should help.

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Kim said, <If you do decide to remove the linoleum and have the plywood exposed then injecting penetrating epoxy from above (flows like water for dry rot applications) into the T&G sections between the joists should help. >
I'm not sure that is a good idea, the plywood or OSB needs to be able to expand and contract. Epoxy could cause the subfloor to crack.
The blocking from underneath would be the best solution.
I think you'll find that if you use longer screws into the joists, this will eliminate most of the squeaking.
Mr Fixit eh
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I might try blocking underneath... 2" X 4"'s work?

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