SOLVED: I had a cold water pipe vibrating in the basement as a result of
flushing the toilet on the first floor. The pipes in the basement were
vibrating and making a loud humming sound that could be heard throughout
the house. The humming sound started as the water in the toilet was
about 90% full and the water valve started to close. As the water valve
was closing, the valve started to vibrate and the vibration was
broadcast all over the basement. As soon as the valve closed completely,
the humming stopped. We bent the rod to the float ball and that cured
the problem. Amazingly simple fix.
So the valve shutoff point coincided with the top
of the overflow pipe?
Bending the rod lowered the shutoff point to get
it to work but why
did it change over time. Perhaps the float has a
very small leak and is
increasing the weight of the float causing it to
'sink' a bit and raising the
water level shutoff point.
That's possible. The main thing is that I was looking in the basement
where the pipes were vibrating instead of going right to the source
which was the toilet. If it happens again, I just replace the whole
water valve assembly. At least I now know to look at the toilet to
isolate the problem.
On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 17:40:24 -0500, Arnie Goetchius
Sounds to me like the washer is loose on the screw inside the toilet
ballcock. But newer types dont have washers. If it screws up again,
I'd just replace the whole ballcock unit, unless you want to rip it
apart and look for loose screws or ???
Sink Faucets, outside spigots, (or any faucets / valves) with loose
washers will also make pipes vibrate.
Faucets with loose washers can make noise, but most often it's when the
faucet is nearly closed so that the movement of the washer can shut off
and allow water flow repeatedly very rapidly. What happens is that
water flows along the screw hole to pressurize the area behind the
washer causing the washer to move forward and cover the seat, thereby
stopping flow through the valve. But, that water supply pressure on the
large area side (behind the washer) quickly drops as the water leaks out
around the washer and the pressure on the small area side pushes the
washer back again. It's the same thing that happens with the rubber
diaphragm, but using the washer as the diaphragm instead.
But, if this is happening as your toilet finishes it's fill cycle after
a flush, it's very likely to be that the rubber diaphragm in the fill
valve is worn out. If it was a water shut off valve making that noise,
it would be making that noise all the time the water is flowing through
the shut off valve; not just at the end of the fill cycle when the
toilet tank fill valve is also closing.
If it were me, I'd replace the rubber diaphragm in the toilet fill
valve. If you don't know how to so that, you can also replace the
entire fill valve. If you do, I think most people in here would
recommend the Fluidmaster 400A fill valve, or any Fluidmaster fill valve
because of it's reliability. I think all Fluidmaster fill valves use
the same rubber diaphragm and operate the same way.
Home Depot has a DANCO Ball Cock Repair Kit which includes the diaphragm
and I may give that a try first before using the Fluidmaster. What with
the amount of guests coming here over the next week, I will wait until
the holidays are over so, in case of failure, I won't have to install a
temporary "terlet" in the back yard. :-)
Well, it happened again so I did some more investigating. When I was
working on it, I noticed that when I took the lid off and flushed the
toilet, there was no vibration. If I put the lid back on, the vibration
Looking at the flush mechanism, I observed an adjusting screw that might
be coming in contact with the lid. See photo with arrow pointing to
I turned the screw 180 deg clockwise which lowered it slightly and now,
no more vibration!! I'll let it go for a week or two before I finally
decide that the problem has been solved and that there are no unintended
consequences from tightening the screw.
Sounds like a plan.
You should be aware that even though all toilet fill valves work on the
same pressure/area principle I described in a previous post, each fill
valve manufacturer will use a different style of rubber diaphragm, so
you can't use one manufacturer's rubber diaphragm to repair a different
manufacturer's toilet fill valve.
So, make sure that this Danco repair kit is meant to repair your style
of fill valve. Otherwise the parts in it won't fit. You might want to
buy both that Danco repair kit and a new toilet fill valve so that if
the Danco parts don't fit, you can opt for Plan B and replace the entire
fill valve. These are mechanical parts, so you should be able to return
them if they haven't been installed.
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