This is Turtle.
now before i start telling this even. i did not do it or will i ever do
it. With this clear i will speak.
i was looking a air handler for a HVAC customer and he run the electric
service hisself to the air handler and when he got to the A/H with the
wire was about 6 feet short to get there. So he just got another piece
of wire and SOLIDERED the # 6 -2 with ground Wire set together to
complete the circuit to the A/H. I know this is illegal here in out
local code but i can't find it in the NEC for not having a new copy.
So how bad is solidering # 6 copper wire for high amp draw in a slice
Soldering is legal, but the joint cannot depend on it. If you want to
solder wires before clamping them together it is fine, as long as the clamp
would be adequate without the solder.
Presumably it is in a box, no?
Inasmuch as nascent Israleis were the originators of nukes (Einstein thru
Teller), you've got it pretty much backwards.
Besides, we need Israel to protect us. Please note Israel can field 18
divisions of infantry and armor (deployed in combat, on three fronts, in 72
hours). The authorized strength of the US Army is ten divisions, the Marine
Corps, two divisions. Israel's ground force is 50% larger than that of the
Generally for #6 you use split bolts and tape well. I assume this was
stranded, because I can not see how solid could be soldered. I also
hope this is in a box. If stranded, I suppose it could be soldered
and taped, but I would not do it. Split bolts are the way to go,
although I am thinking that the largest wirenuts available *might*
work. I can only recall one time that I had to splice #6, and I used
split bolts and in a deep 4" box. This was only because the run was
60 some feet and connected to existing wire. If the run was short,
I'd just get all new wire because split bolts are costly.
This is Turtle.
No it is in mid air in a closet !
No Clamp !
Just twisted , solidered together , and wrapped with electric tape.
It was done by a local country boy Sparkey with NO licences and told
him solidering it was just fine.
I completely agree, but the OP said it's not his own home and the
homeowner DIY and feels he did the right thing. I'd at least tell the
homeowner that the inspectors are going to find it eventyually and
that it's not safe. If the connections were in a box, I'd feel much
better about it.
If it were mine, I'd replace the wire with one full piece, or else
place the joints into a box and use split bolts and tape.
Just do whichever costs the least. Three split bolts, a box, and tape
are already over $20. I have not bought #6 cable in awhile, but I
guess around $1.50 a foot. A 20 foot run would cost $30 and save lots
of work. Those shorter peices can still be used for other jobs. (or
sold on ebay)
Just my opinion:
I *might* solder (braze would be a more accurate term) a large grounded
wire to splice it, but I would use high silver content (like 40% Ag)
silver solder. Even if the joint were to heat up, it will not melt the
silver solder and open the connection like it might with lead/tin
solder. I would not use soft solder -- if I had a good enough
mechanical connection to trust soft solder, it wouldn't need the solder.
Can"t for the life of me understand why anyone would go to the trouble of
Section 110-14 (b) in the 1999 NEC. Says soldering is permissible as long as
the wire was twisted together so it is mechanically sound before the solder.
I had to connect two solid #12 wires to stranded #8. I expect a wire nut
would hold it all together, but it just didn't inspire confidence; so I
soldered it all before putting the the wire nut on. Couldn't possibly come
This is Turtle.
i was looking for a NEC spec that would cut it for a bunch of fires in
this area has been started by solidering wires. About a year ago a fire
burn the living room of a house pretty bad because of a solidered wires
going to a window unit and on to a 220 volt plug in. The Local
inspection here will cut it out but the other parts of the country will
[ i guess ] use it.
With stranded wire, solder creates a discontinuity in the flexibility
of the wire - it's stiff where the solder has wicked, and flexible
beyond that point. So, it's a potential failure, unless there's
strain relief behind the joint.
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