There are times when soldering a joint can be very tough like in a hole in the ground which is the lowest point in your plumbing. I like the bread idea and have never heard it before. I pony up the cash for a compression fitting when soldering is to difficult.
replying to PE, Babydollbolt wrote: After going thru 30 loaves of all kinds of bread, without success, I decided ti try Just for Copper. More then ten years later still no leaks! This repair involved multiple joints, including shut off valves.. I have been told by numerous people about the bread trick, but they all have one thing in common-none of them have ever tried it themselves. THE BREAD TRICK DOES NOT WORK!
It depends what you're trying to do, but since you're a web poster, of course you don't provide any context.
IIRC, I used it once and it worked for me.
I did not have as good results with "just for copper" as you did. My solder joints USUALLY work.
I was fortunate that 45 years ago i was taught by a couple of guys that did joints all day long the right way. This was a department that built copper tubed radiators/coils with thousands of joints a day. I just trust solder to last forever if done properly. Adhesives have improved but I wonder if there is a time that they may become brittle.
replying to Steve B, Rkay wrote: Stainless steel clamp tightened over the Epoxy (J B Weld) on copper pipe should provide pressure and strength and make the fix last much longer. PVC or CPVC are joined that way in water line systems for housing. Water pressure at homes is about 50-100 PSI..
Where is the evidence that a clamp over a copper pipe makes the fix last much longer? Silly me, I just solder copper pipes and then they generally last the lifetime of the pipe system. If I had to use that new epoxy stuff in a pinch, I would, but then I'd just follow the directions.
PVC
Reallly? They are glued with epoxy and then they put a stainless clamp over it? Show us some examples. Silly me, I've been using PVC or CPVC cement all these years.
Should be closer to 50, and over ~75 I'd get a pressure reducer.
And thanks for reviving another 10 year old thread.
My question is should you put flux on the pipe and inside the fitting? I have heard that too much flux will push the flux inside the fitting and could possible restrict the opening.
How small are these pipes that a little bit of flux should restrict it?
Not only that, the flux will get washed away when the water is running.
YOu should put a light layer of flux where the pipe and the fitting meet. You don't have to do both parts because one part will touch the other when assembled. You don't have to go to the very edge, because it flows when hot. If you think some of it may have gotten in the pipe, you should run the water first before drinking it. You can use that water to wash the sink or take a bath. Some flux in a million times more water won't hurt you. Just don't drink the bath water.
I'm not acquainted with using epoxee on copper pipes.
On Mon, 6 Sep 2021 16:31:12 +0000, rajunkajun posted for all of us to digest...
Solder is king. Use a fitting brush on the pipe and fitting. Flux on pipe is sufficient. I never fluxed a female fitting.
A plumber showed me a trick that works great on copper pipe. Work your flux in with steel wool. It shines up the pipe and gets a good coat of flux on it. The solder flows like water and sucks right in.
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