This part of your sentence doesn't make sense:
"not below what was on the B-pillar auto mfg sticker, which is where I keep my tires about 2lbs psi above."
There's a serious grammatical issue there.
You keeps your tires 2 lbs above *what*? The PSI on the tire? The PSI on the pillar? Is the PSI on the pillar 2 lbs above the PSI on the tire? Something else?
What exactly are you saying?
It all started when we switched from candles to oil lanterns. Then to gaslight. Then electricity. It was bad enough that the city folk used it, then FDR decided to inflict it on the rest of America, too.
Don't get me started on modern medicine. My great grandparents died of TB. They didn't need no rescuing with those newfangled antiobiotics.
From the perfect gas law, pressure varies with temperature: PV=nRT
Temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin so you can calculate potential pressure drops or increases by the ratio of temperatures:
PV/T=P'V'/T'
The constants drop out and if you assume no volume change:
P/T=P'/T'
Reminds me, years ago, took my new car on a 1,000 mile trip and checked tires a while later. They were set 10 lb above recommendation. I questioned dealer about that and was told that they were set high at factory for long ship ride and keeping in lots until sold to assure pressure would not need to be increased. That was before TPMS.
Filling tires with nitrogen rather than old plain air (78% nitrogen anyway) is one of those things that sounds good on paper and which tire buffs rave about-- but which has little impact in the real world.
Plus I suspect it costs you more in gas to drive over to Costco than you actually save. You also have to let some lead-foot 85 IQ tire installer jerk drive your car while you sit around on a ripped vinyl chair in an uncomfortable waiting room-- or worse, roam around the store and pick up a shrink wrapped pack of 96 rolls of toilet paper or a 5 pound box of corn flakes...
DerbyDad03 wrote: "You keeps your tires 2 lbs above *what*? The PSI on the tire? The PSI on the pillar? Is the PSI on the pillar 2 lbs above the PSI on the tire? Something "
Obviously the PSI on the b-pillar. What the car builder recommends. In my case, my tires have "cold pressure max 44psi" stamped on them. My car's door pillar says 30psi cold. I keep them between 32-34psi.
is that better?
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 07:54:34 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote in
Yeah, that's something else I noticed about the low-profile tires. I really don't like them at all. Any opinions as to why manufactures switched to them? I'm guessing they are cheaper.
CRNG wrote: "Yeah, that's something else I noticed about the low-profile tires. I really don't like them at all. Any opinions as to why manufactures switched to them? I'm guessing they are cheaper. "
#1. Looks
#2. Some handling advantages. Mainly better 0-60 starts.
A disadvantage of lower/wider tires is that they require more aggressive alignment settings than do narrower higher profiles to keep them going in a straight line. Narrow tall tires concentrate more weight in a straight-ahead, which naturally straightens them out from a turn with less Caster angle, for example. They also eat through snow and ice more readily than those fat, tall wagon wheels I see nowadays.
Unless you're driving a rather elderly vehicle, it has more computer systems than the moon launch. Ever hear the term 'wireless'?
At least for my car if you can find the module the proper value resistor can be used as a jumper.
It is usually inside the wheel and RF connected to a module in the car.
We can drive the 2 miles to Costco to have *them* put 95% N2 in the tires.
Or, we can drive the 2 miles to the Albertson's ACROSS THE STREET from Costco and drop quarters into the *air* dispenser and fill the tires ourselves.
Or, we can buy a small compressor and find a place to store it for the few times it's needed.
Given that we shop *at* Costco every week, there's no cost to having them do this -- other than waiting 60-120 seconds for the tire monkey to drop what he's doing and walk over to the car (WHILE WE SIT IN IT) to do this for us.
[BTW, there are only 30 rolls of paper in the packages and neither of us eats Corn Flakes]Have you actually ever *been* to a Costco? Or, are the ones in your part of the world NOT as friendly as ours?
+1
Out of the showroom, one tire showed a very slow "loss in pressure". Could have been a defective transducer. But, more likely a rim leak, etc.
Brought car in to dealer ("Hey, YOUR TPMS is telling us the tire is losing pressure; it's not my mishandling of a tire gauge!"). Initial test showed the tire as good. Our insistence caused them to look at it longer. Lady tech was tickled when she found it. Replaced the tire. No problems in the months since then.
The sensors are usually made in to the valve stem. Just a much larger buldge inside the tire with its own battery. After a number of years the battery runs out and you have to replace the module at about $ 60 each or more. They work by sending a radio signal back to the car. Around 315 MHz I think.
Not sure when they were required ,but if you get a car that was sold new in the US in about the last 10 years it will have it.
My 2007 and 2008 both have the light on as each has one that is bad. As the state does not require them towork for the safety inspection, I am not going to replace them. That would be around $ 500 when all 8 go out. Which will probalby be before I get rid of them as they only have 25 and 55 thousand on them.
Yes, it's much better than as originally written. Thank you. It does, however, raise another question.
You (rhetorically) asked:
"Who knows more about how a specific model car will be driven - the tire co. or the car co.?!"
I assume the (non-rhetorical) answer is "the car co.?!"
So, why do you increase the pressure to 2 lbs above "the car co.?!" recommendation? In other words, how do
*your* driving habits differ from how "the car co.?!" thinks that "specific model car" will be driven, such that you feel the need for 2 lb increase?On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 09:16:18 -0700, Don Y wrote in
They do that for free?
Yes. A "membership benefit".
If you purchase tires from them, they will also rotate and fix flats for free (though there are other "tire stores" who will do likewise).
...snip...
"About" may be the operative word in your statement. However, it's not only a year issue, but also a make, model and trim level issue.
My 06 and 07 Honda's do not have TPMS.
I have an 06 Odyssey EX-L. The 06 Odyssey only had TPMS on the highest trim level, the Touring. In fact, that trim came with a special Michelin PAX run-flat tire, the only choice of tire and wheel that you could get. So many people hated them (or actually hated the cost to replace them once worn) that there are threads in Honda forums explaining the procedure to "De-PAX" the Odyssey by using Acura wheels and TPMS sensors.
As far as my (daughter's) 07 Civic, TPMS wasn't available on any Civic trim level in 2007.
It looks like 2008 was when Honda began using TPMS on all trim levels for the Civic and Odyssey.
On Wed, 06 Jan 2016 11:49:30 -0700, Don Y wrote in
I wonder if SAMs does that? We have a SAMs nearby, but the nearest CostCo is about 40 miles away.
No idea. We gave up our Sam's membership many years ago. I htink there is *one* in town and it's a 30 minute drive. OTOH, there are two Costco's, here, and one is ~2 miles from the house (I've walked there in the past when I was headed to the Post Office)
We are saddened by their push to put the Kirkland label on everything. You'd think they would see how well that worked for Penney's, Sears, etc.
Also, their push to up-sell is becoming far too obvious.
DerbysDad wrote: "I assume the (non-rhetorical) answer is "the car co.?!"
Yes.
"So, why do you increase the pressure to 2 lbs above "the car co.?!" recommendation? In other words, how do
*your* driving habits differ from how "the car co.?!" thinks that "specific model car" will be driven, such that you feel the need for 2 lb increase? "In a lot of cases car mfgs specify pressures tuned more for ride than for handling, etc In my personal experience I've noticed that exactly at those specs, more shoulder wear. So I pump a few extra PSI into them and hit that sweet spot.
Still others recommend the "chalk" test, where you make chalk lines across the treads, drive, and adjust the pressure until the chalk line wears most evenly. Check the pressures at that point, and write them down as ideal for your machine.
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