I took out the sliding door....replaced the wheels and can't get the door back in with both sets of wheels. The wheels are up in there and to the lowest position. I've been told to remove the stationary part but the top part of the door has the same height on both sides doesn't seem like it would be easier. Ideas? Terry
All I have had have spring-loaded top rollers so they compress when lift door in place. Other than that, no clue...
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Oh, they also had a fixed plate or other anti-theft device that has to be removed or adjusted in some fashion, too...
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How are you able to get the door in at all if the wheels are up in the doors pocket? If the door with worn wheels came out with no problem, than there should be no problem putting it back if the wheels are the same size and set at the lowest position.
Did you try installing the door on both ends of the frame? The middle? Try working in one side of the door at a time using a pry bar on the bottom of the door. (make sure you don't pry against the guide!)
The only time I ever had a problem was because the home had settled over the yrs. It was difficult to get the door out and I had to use a house jack and a 2x4 on the frame / house to get the door with new rollers back in.
BTW, Taking out the stationary door would make it harder to get the door back in if the home as settled.
That makes no sense. Rollers don't stick out 3/4" when fully retracted.
You should have PLENTY of room to to install the door. Like I said, use a pry bar to lift the bottom of the door and the rollers onto the guide.
The wheel assembly goes up in the bottom frame...there is a small bracket that is supposed to go around the screws that holds the frame together. This keeps the wheel assembly in the right place so you can adjust the wheels later through the hole in each end.. Other wise the wheel assembly would move and you wouldn't be able to adjust the wheels. Also the wheels would gum up eventually and end up in the center of the door frame away from the ends. The assembly is fully up in the frame and the wheel adjustment is fully retracted. The door frame is probably a little out of square - we are in Southern CA earthquake country. But I got it out....and when the door is in the frame without the wheels I can lift the door up a good 3/4" problem is with the wheels that isn't enough. Later Terry
dpb wrote: ...
Actually, not that I think about it for a while, there weren't rollers on the top but a slot that straddled the upper guide. It was the little flat plate that went on that was the anti-break-in device that would keep the door from being lifted out of the track when in place...
Fortunately, I've not had a set of the stinkin', drafty, leaky things in long enough now I'd kinda' forgotten... :)
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One of the advantages of Crestline doors, if they're still built the way mine was, is that no anti-theft device is required.
Instead of leaving room above the slider so the panel be lifted out, there's an interior trim piece along the top of frame holding the door in. If you remove the screws holding the trim in place, the slider falls into the room.
There's virtually no gap between the top of the slider and the frame - just enough for a little furry weather strippping, similiar to what you find on vinyl replacement windows. Security and weatherproofing in one smooth move. In addition, my door is all wood, so the trim piece adds a nice feature. Form and function.
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