Tile was glued directly to sheetrock. Due to tile removal, paper layer peeled and some adhesive remained.
Wall was stippled late 70's (seems likely to have been alkyd, but since not intended as a pigmented final coat, it shouldn't contain lead?)
1st Question: Procedure picked up from net searches, skim coating: Scrape down high bits (debris trapped in paint for example). Clean/degloss paint. Apply da goop with widest flex blade, pressing firmly. (keep overall thickness close; ignore goop's ridges) I plan on experimenting with joint cement, because it's easily washed off. However, if the experiment gives results, i'd prefer to use a smoothable, and harder setting, compound (aka 'goop') for my permanent skimcoat. The last reply here seems correct to me:
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After the goop sets, scrapedown blade's ridges with blade. sand where necessary. i'm not going to be fixing any humps in the wall; the wall's ok. Seal/prime. Stipple paint. Color/finish coat(s).
2nd Question: About ten years ago, near the beginning of the low-VOC era, i tried stipple paint. It wasn't easy to maintain coat thickness uniform. I think the stipple paint was latex based. I'll ask at the paint stores if stipple paint has changed much, but i'm asking here, too. :-)
3rd Question: Compare difficulty of skimcoat vs my experience: I've done ok when: Taping and fastener fill on new drywall, except feathering at cut joints takes a long time. Can make nail holes disappear without paint (if wall is approximately white/cream/pale color). At eye level, 10d to molly holes require paint, only to match color. Can imitate the "multiple paint layers" look of older (milder) style knockdown when retexturing small (2-3 inch) hole patches.4th Question: I wonder if it's possible to restore the function of the missing paper that came off with tile. Nowhere is the paper layer peeled completely (gone, down to the gypsum).
TIA.