Well, I grew up in Texas (40's, 50's), and we had forced hot
air (no built-in AC).
The hot, dry air would blow in at the top of the room, and
exit through the botom.
The blowing force wasn't enough to keep the whole room
stirred up, so the hot air stayed in the top part of the
OK enonugh, I guess, if you were lying down, but not in any
way if you were standing up, with your head (ie mouth, nose) up
in that extra hot, extra dry air.
Myself, I sure prefer steam heat via those old clanking
RADIATORS. Wonderful things.
On Sat, 11 Feb 2012 20:12:29 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (David
Blowing in at the top was the problem. Heat rises, so you feed the hot
air in at the bottom and take it off, ideally, farther up. In general
practice, the "cold air return" is often also at floor level.
But the air was only less dry if the radiator had a leak.
Well, with the forced hot air and zero supplied radiation,
the air had to be pretty warm. Thus low relative humidity.
With radiator, you could have window (partly or wholly) open,
thus air in room cooler (thus higher relative humidity
than with forced hot air), and yet if in direct line
to radiator, your body kept warm that way.
Anyway, seems that lots of people, even in the north, are happy
with forced hot air.
On Tue, 14 Feb 2012 06:46:16 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org (David
Very wastefull having the window open letting cold air in - but what
it DID do is give you "forced air heat" because the air flowing over
the rad was heated and circulated. However, that gives you a VERY DRY
house. The cold air cannot hold very much humidity at all - so if the
RH of the outside air at -10C was 99%, when it warmed up to 20C in the
house the RH would be something like 15%. If the RH outside at -10 was
50%, it would only be 7.7%
The secret to keeping relative humidity up in winter is to limit the
air changes - keeping humidity in and dry air out.
If humidity gets too high a small amount of ventilation can remedy it
very quickly and effectively as the humidity is absorbed into the dry
air - virtually "sucking it out of the house".
If you (not necessarily the OP) doubt my numbers (and someone WILL
dissagree with me - absolutely unavoidable fact of life,) see:
And no, I didn't google it first - and yes I do understand it.
On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 20:32:13 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com (David
Hot air heat has been around a long time, and works in all climates.
I grew up with hot water radiators and thought them best.
Mostly because I always noticed the furnace going on in houses with
hot air. Hot water is dead quiet comparatively.
Now that I have a house with hot air I wouldn't have it otherwise.
No radiators getting in the way, and no window AC units blocking the
light. No hanging water tubs on radiators to humidify when its dry.
I got used to the furnace on/off cycle in about a week, and don't even
notice it any more.
If it cycles right, the heat is probably more even than hot water
radiators, which are slow to respond to temp changes.
"Wall wart". I tried using that term with an electrician. Had no
idea what I was talking about. (I thought it was a universally used term.)
I bought a Radio Shack VOM (5" high, 4 wide, maybe 1.3 thick) back in
the 60's. Beautiful -- works like a charm. Still the best one I have --
*way* better than these new electronic ones.
The absolute crap RS has been selling for the last, what, 20 years?,
what absolute garbage. (At least the stuff with the Radio Shack label.)
NO WONDER they seem to be going under.
Wait -- let me go do a wikipedia on them...
Here's the table of contents for the wikipedia article:
1.1 The first 40 years
1.2 Tandy Corporation
1.3 RadioShack Corporation
1.4 "Fix 1500" initiative
1.5 CEO résumé scandal
1.6 New strategy
1.7 Corporate layoffs
1.9 Customer relations
2 International operations
2.1 Operations in Canada
2.2 Operations in Australia
2.3 Operations in France
2.4 Operations in Belgium
3 Other operations
3.1 Corporate citizenship
3.2 RadioShack and other retailer partnerships
3.3 RadioShack cycling team
4 Corporate headquarters
6 Further reading
7 External links
I was looking for an LBO or something, but didn't see one.
But I did see this:
| Customer relations
| RadioShack and the Better Business Bureau of Fort Worth, Texas
| met on April 23, 2009 to discuss the condition of their file and
| the number of unanswered and unresolved complaints. At this time
| RadioShack had the grade of "F" and was not listed as a BBB
| Accredited business. The company is now working on a plan of
| action to address the existing and future customer service
| issues. Part of this plan is already visible in stores which are
| now required to post a sign with the District Manager's name and
| the question "How Are We Doing?" The sign also includes a direct
| toll-free number to the district office for an area and every
| office has received a unique phone number. RadioShackHelp.com has
| also been created as another portal for customers to resolve
| their issues through the internet. As of May 29, 2009, the BBB
| has upgraded RadioShack from an "F" to a "C-" rating.
Good ole WIKIPEDIA! What an amazing site! Math, physics, history,
literature, you name it, it's there, and GOOD, too. (maybe not
for some "controversial" subjects (Israel v Palestineans?) where
it'd be hacked every 10 minutes!)
About RS: Suppose they just went back to QUALITY, QUALITY, QUALITY,
at a decent price. I'd sure like that!
(No more "radio row" (Canal Street, NYC) of the 60's and earlier --
no more Allied Radio -- it's RS or nothing, seems to me.)
On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 19:24:49 +0000 (UTC), firstname.lastname@example.org (David
As long as there is no other 115 volt AC load that is definitely the
simple and "code free" way of doing it.
But if the transformer is the only load there is no reason NOT to
just use a "plug-in" transformer in the first place. The transformer
can be a "wall wart" style - which IS designed to be plugged in and
meets all the code requirements for a "plug-in" connection for all the
chicken-littles worried about being code compliant.
Most likely a 24 volt unit - possibly an 18 volr - like a doorbell
transformer. About 2 amps secondary.
HTP2450 Honeywell is 2 amp 24 volt AC with thermal overload protection
that plugs into any 15 amp NEMA outlet.
Correspondence with an electrical contractor in Central Texas,
another electrical/heating contractor in Albuquerque, and another in
Palmer Alaska all indicate it is "common practice" to have the furnace
connected by a twist-lock plug to a receptacle.
An electrician in Central PA says they do it all the time - it IS
against code but the inspectors all allow it.
The reason given for not allowing it is flexible cords did not stand
up to the temperatures that could be expected in the furnace wiring
cabinet. Flexible cords are used on electric space heaters and other
heating appliances - so high temperature cord is available - and used.
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