SIMPLE electrical job. Cost via electrician? chg direct-wire to plug & socket

Here's what I want to do.

I've got steam/boiler heater, runs on gas, the only electricty needed is to run the (solenoid?) thermostat, basically.

It's powered via a cable (covered in flexible metal tubing) that connects into the wall 110-AC line.

What I want to do is get that changed from that direct connection to the wall, to instead end in a grounded male plug.

That's it!

Probably requiring another separate female socket box to plug it into.

WHY? So that when the power goes out and I get my small generator cranked up, I can unplug the heating apparatus (boiler, etc) from the wall and plug it into an extension cord from the generator. So I don't freeze my ass.

Reply to
David Combs
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it wasn't very much at all, until you got to the last sentence. at that point, it became a much bigger bill.

Reply to
chaniarts

OK so if this is cord and plug connected, all of that transfer equipment stuff IS bullshit. The code problem is that this is probably not listed as a cord and plug connected piece of equipment. Horrible violation ... no. Is the current metal armored whip terminating in a regular device box? I can't say it is OK to do this but if it was me ... Install a receptacle in the box, remove the whip from the heater and add a cord and plug assembly and rock on.

Reply to
gfretwell

Not being electrician, I can't comment on what they charge.

From what I know of the NEC, the heating plant has to be straight wired from the device to the breaker, so the plug and socket routine is not legal. I know. Your refrigerator, your TV, everything else in the house is wired with a plug and socket. But, that's what I've heard about the NEC.

That said, it can't be all that gosh awful expensive. And, it really is a brilliant idea. The challenge is to find someone who will actually DO said rewiring.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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I've got steam/boiler heater, runs on gas, the only electricty needed is to run the (solenoid?) thermostat, basically.

It's powered via a cable (covered in flexible metal tubing) that connects into the wall 110-AC line.

What I want to do is get that changed from that direct connection to the wall, to instead end in a grounded male plug.

That's it!

Probably requiring another separate female socket box to plug it into.

WHY? So that when the power goes out and I get my small generator cranked up, I can unplug the heating apparatus (boiler, etc) from the wall and plug it into an extension cord from the generator. So I don't freeze my ass.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

All you need to do is turn off the breaker, disconnect the hard-wired connection, and replace it with a Duplex receptacle of the correct amperage, then remove the solid conductor wire from the boiler control box and replace it with a flexible cord of the correct guage, with the correct plug.

Dead simple job, and no electician "required" in most jurisdictions - particularly if you are reasonably handy and know anything about electricity and wiring (or can read and comprehend a book)

Reply to
clare

adviesable. You need a good "appliance cord" - I like teck cable for that kind of setup. #14 or #12.

Reply to
clare

"Bill" wrote in news:9p0bsnFhbbU1 @mid.individual.net:

Do they do something special to uglyfy those plugs you use??? Ours look like

Reply to
Sjouke Burry

As gfretwell points out, you can't properly wire your boiler to a cord and plug. To do what you want, properly, you'll need one of these:

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The job will take less than an hour and the typical service charge for that time, in your area will be around $150

Reply to
RBM

Here you go, all UL Listed and legal

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I've got one on my gas furnace and it works great. No more frozen pipes when the power goes out.

Reply to
Harry Johnson

Should interface with this, just fine?

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Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
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Here you go, all UL Listed and legal

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I've got one on my gas furnace and it works great. No more frozen pipes when the power goes out.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

This solenoid is most likely operated by a transformer with a secondary voltage of around 24 volts.

Working on low voltage wiring is easy to do and should not need to follow a lot of codes. Therefore, the simple solution is to not touch the AC supply voltage at all. Instead, buy an extra transformer to be powered from the generator. Install a DPDT (Double pole double throw) switch in a box, and connect this to secondary of both transformers. When the switch is flipped in one direction, the furnace will run the transformer from the power line. When flipped the other way, it will run from the generator. Label the switch so you know which way to flip the switch.

You can buy a switch like this at Radio Shack. You can also buy small aluminum boxes there to install it after drilling some holes in the box for the switch and the wires. A DPDT switch has 6 terminals on the back. The 2 middle ones go to the 2 wires going to the furnace. The 2 terminals on the left go to the transformer from the generator, the two on the right go to the 2 wires from the line powered transformer.

Find a buddy who plays around with electronics to help if you need help. There are ham radio guys and electronics experimenters all over the country. Maybe the Radio Shack clerk knows of someone, or call a few local TV repair shops.

Be sure to buy a transformer MADE for your furnace. Call a furnace repair shop.

Problem solved!

Reply to
jw

if you do that make sure the switch is a DPDT center-off switch, or at a bare minimum break before make. xfmrs can backfeed and that wouldn't be safe

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

It's a moot point. The OP has a draft inducer in the system which needs

120 volts
Reply to
RBM

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In my opinion, HF is a schlock merchant. I would expect that extension cord to be a cheap piece of shit made from China's finest toxic waste. I'd also expect the cord to fail within the first few hours of use.

For just a few dollars more you can get a top-quality cord made in USA that will last for decades.

Amazon has one for $44 US Wire 99050 12/3 50-Foot SJEOW TPE Cold Weather Extension Cord Blue with Lighted Plug

Reply to
Wilber Haynes

That would be my choice. Easy to DIY, but also simple if you have to pay an electrician. He will probably charge the minimum for a call. Around here, that is about $100.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

I've seen furnaces connected with a twist-lock plug - it meets the requirement for a disconnect within reach of the furnace.(takes the place of a switch) and is also a foolproof way of connecting to a genset.

Reply to
clare

Won't run the exhaust fan or any pumps etc.

Reply to
clare

By "thermostat", do you mean thermostatically controlled valve?

That, and the thermostat, are in the same circuit and would be powered by the transformer which is powered by the AC.

And the ignitor also. It's not enough to turn on the gas, you have to light it too.

My first month in my 4-year old house, the AC failed, because the furnace transformer failed. I went to a heating supply house and since the transformer was part of the furnace control panel, his reflex was to sell me a new control panel, for 400 dollars (in 1983)

I whined and he sold me a 24 volt transformer for maybe 30 dollars**,. AFAIK all that is necessary is that it be 24 volts and big enough, to power the furnace controls and the AC controls. Since the AC compressor is on a separate cirucit, and the furnace air circulation fan are on separate cirucits from the 24 volt control circuit, the transformer doesn't have to be that big. Are you sure it has to be made for the furnace? In my case it was a generic 24 volt transformer, and I probably could have gotten it for less than the 20 or 30 dollars I paid at Radio Shack if they had one big enough, that is, not a wall wart, not universal, and enough amps.

**I'm still using the same transformer 28 years later. It was too big to fit where the original transformer was, so I mounted it on a shelf/panel inside the furnace, though it could be mounted outside the furnace too.
Reply to
micky

Way back when, we hired artists to uglify them. Makes us special.

Reply to
micky

This is not a furnace, or furnace/AC, it's a steam boiler, and a crude one at that. The 24 volt gas valve is controlled by the wall thermostat. There is a pressure switch or switches that limit the steam. That's it, no ignitor, it's standing pilot, but he does have a draft inducer fan that needs line voltage.

Reply to
RBM

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