A little searching on the Simpson website led me to some anchors that
may satisfy the inspector's requirement for anchor bolts on the new
Simpson's site is full of code references, load test results, and
corrosion data that should satisfy all but the most obtuse inspector.
But I still need an idea or two on how to lift/support a 12' section
of the two story house where the joists run parallel to the sill
Like in the side of the house in the first picture here
Not one of you is clever enough to think of a way to do this?
Not here (UBC). Code states that material in contact with
masonry must be pressure treated OR a suitable sill sealer must
be used. Energy requirements DO require a seal between the
bottom plate and the floor (regardless of whether it is masonry
or wood) but this is done with either a suitable foam insert,
foam sealant or caulk.
I would do it with a couple of steel beams, cribbing and screw jacks.
Maybe you don't have easy access to such, so perhaps this would be a
good time to talk to a professional house mover. Those folks are
surprisingly creative and often have spare time in the winter. IMO it
will cost you less than you think. Good luck.
Many here, and especially those in the building industry, could not
only think of a way, we could complete the job several different ways.
Your answer is in the last thread, there are too many variables to
give any advice without seeing the job first hand and even if I did
see the job it would be wreckless and irresponsible to tell you how to
go about it. Its that simple.
Not to insult your knowledge or capabilities but what you really need
to be focusing on is that YOU cant think of a way to do it. It is
foolish to think that you would attempt a project like this "blind"
relying on advice given from strangers on the internet. It would be
like thinking you could rebuild the engine on your wifes minivan over
the weekend because last summer you successfully changed the spark
plug in your lawnmower.
If your own knowledge cant get you on the path to completing the
project its best to consult someone who doesnt need to ask someone
else how to do the job.
Bigass steel plates on bottom to spread load, steel beam on top to catch
2-3 joists, and cribbing and jacks in between. Call your local house
moving company- they have all the tools, and more importantly, the
expertise to use them without breaking the house or killing anyone.
Hey, moving that end of house half an inch straight up, is still
Seriously, this is a common job for them, and any company that does
foundation repairs will know who to call.
And this job is seriously complicated by the brick veneer wall to contend
with. You really cannot lift a house 1/2" without taking it into the factor
as it is attached to the house frame by many brick ties and will want to
move with the house, possibly from causing cracks to failure of the brick
Yeah, that is a monkey wrench all right. Usually, for veneer brick in a
house jacking or moving, they take down the veneer and just figure that
as part of the cost. On a historic building, I have seen them remove
bottom 2 course of brick, 3 feet at a time, and lag-bolt L-channel to
the house to catch the upper brick. After the foundation work was done,
they removed the channel and replaced the brick, or sawed the saved
brick in half and covered over the steel. But that is a LOT of fussy
masonry work, and would cost a lot, which is why on a modern
brick-veneer house, they usually just take it down.
Only other way I can think to fake it, is to(after house is on jacks),
saw the bottom mortar joint of wall on outside, shove steel T rail
(upside down) in the crack, and jack that as you jack the house.
Afterwards, pull the steel out and tuckpoint.
Rereading the above, it occurs to me that taking down the brick may be
indicated anyway- if the sill is rotted, how did it get wet? Rotten sill
behind brick on a brick ledge below sill level, indicates to me that the
flashing and sheathing were not done properly. Brick is not waterproof,
and if weep holes were blocked or omitted, the cavity between brick and
sheathing may actually be collecting water. Sometimes, taking it all
apart and putting it back together correctly, is the only long-term fix.
But, I can't see your house from here, so all this is just speculation.
Yes the non-existent flashing and abscence of weep holes contributed
to the termite damage for sure. This will be fixed.
I do have an idea on how to do this and will probably try it if
I can't come up with a better way.
diagram best viewed in fixed font (courier).
Outside | |
wall | |
| | | | | |
| | | | Temporary | |
| | Temporary | | notched | |
| | blocking | | blocking | |
| | installed | | _________| |
| | | _|_______|sill
Jacking | | | | |
beam | | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
|__|__| | |
Kind of tough to draw the notched blocking the way I would make it
the idea would be for the notched blocking to tie into the floor
and support each stud of the outside wall. The other straight blocks
would keep the joist from twisting. The angle will be just enough
to allow me to get in the new 2x6 sill plate.
I don't need to 'lift' (maybe a CH) the house at this point,
just support it.
The floor above has tile in a 1/2 bath and linoleum in a laundry room
so if I need to I could pull the tile and tie in some more support
from above and even into the studs if necessary.
No dice, keep trying. The result of this will be 0.0000" of movement
at the outside wall and you will, in effect, simply shove the outer
joist and sheathing right by the outside wall shearing it at the
bottom plate. This would happen on a single story, vinyl sided house.
Forget about brick. You will be unable to make a connection at the
blocking/joists that will be anywhere near sufficient to raise the
outside wall cantilevered a foot or more beyond. Additionaly as I
recall in your OP you said the rim was rotted where does that repair
figure in to this plan. Over and above, you are going to have to
raise the structure substantially more than the CH you keep
referencing. New material is thicker even with a 1 for 1 replacement,
higher MC, high low spots, and so on. You may be looking at a CH from
king kongs mama, something in the neigborhood of 1/16th would be the
minimum and thats if the floor hasnt dropped at all due to the rot/
What is you reasoning for not at least getting a quote on this repair
from a professional? You are already ahead of the game financially as
you said you repaired a section with perpendicular joists yourself.
You are potentially looking at comprimising the floor(s) above, the
brick, possibly affecting windows and doors nearby, and the value of
your home. It would at least be worth a couple phone calls.
The brick is only a veneer that runs 3/4 of the way up the first story
and is resting on the solid pour conrete porch. The top of the brick
is at least 1/2" away from the asbestos siding that is under the vinyl
I Got an estimate from a foundation repair company for $3,500 to do
the entire 40'. This was after about 20 calls that were not answered
or contractors that "don't handle that kind of work". This did not
include dealing with permits, sill sealant, or anchors that the
building inspector wants. Their estimate was to replace damaged sill
and install PT end blocking to reinforce the damaged rim/end joist. I
need this permitted and inspected in case I ever want to sell because
any repair will be obvious. I did get one other estimate from a local
contractor to rip down the brick, do the repairs from the outside and
reinstall brick for $8,000. I estimate that his estimate was way too
What I don't see is how you think the above method I suggest would
raise the outer joist and sheathing and not the bottom plate. I could
see the joist with the jacking beam under it raising and cracking the
subfloor while the blocking broke loose but not what you suggest.
You are confusing your terms, your last sentence is correct. The joist
you proposing to jack against in your ASCII "is" the outer joist.
Outboud of that, under the outside wall, is the rim board/rim joist/
band. I call it a rim board when sitting on continuous foundation, and
rim joist or header when not. Regardless, what I said was, "The result
of this will be 0.0000" of movement at the outside wall". This means
the outside wall, floor sheating, rim joist, and the sill, will not go
up. All that will go up will be the outer joist you are jacking on,
and the sub/finish floor above, inbound of the wall. You are basically
shoving the floor up through the interior of the house hoping that the
strength of your blocking (which there is none) and the floor
sheathing (again none), will lift the walls. This will not happen. And
again, even if it did, it doesnt facilitate changing the damaged rim.
What _will_ happen is the floor sheathing will fail at the inner edge
of the outside wall and for conversation sake if jacking continued it
would simply tear the subfloor and finish floor free leaving the
outside wall where it is. Jacking would become progressively easier
and easier once the floor is torn free of the outside walls.
The object is to replace the sill plate, not elevate the building.
Take out a 12" section (chisel? Sawsall?) and replace it. Move to the next
Where is it written that the sill plate has to be one big honkin' board?
Heck, there are houses that don't have any sill plates at all! (The most
famous one was Dorothy's house in the Wizard of Oz.)
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