side of deck - suggestions??

[Howie]

My wife and I have a ground level pressure treated deck that is about a foot off of the ground. Beside it we have just completed a paving stone area - click here to see what I mean:

What should we do to cover the area from the edge of the deck to the paving stone level? It is the green area of this photo: My wife think we should put whole series of short boards (same size as the decking boards) down vertically. I was leaning towards covering the area with fine (privacy) wooden lattice. My wife thinks lattice won't look very good because you will be able to see the height difference from one end of the deck to the other (because the deck is level but the paving stone area is sloped for drainage).

Any other suggestions / ideas / advice / tips?

Cory

[xrongor]

whatever you use, i would suggest you dont run it all the way to the ground. so its easier to use a string trimmer by going under it. string trimmer will destroy wood lattice and damage wood in general.

as for the height difference i dont see how using lattice vs solid boards makes any difference....

randy

[m Ransley]

If deck overlaps Do half hers half yours and see how it looks. Lattice may not fit visualy, Verticle may or may not look right. Or stain it it will look better or a larger horizontal board. Its a horizontal area. Or draw it out first and compare. All 3, the light color stands out. But really i woundnt have thought about that as unfinished.

[Howie]

I won't have any lawn on that side of the deck - are you referring to a string trimmer in case weeds develop?

I agree with you...

[xrongor]

ya i assumed some lawn and a string trimmer to trim it. maybe you even said no lawn... if you dont have lawn, you can probably just use roundup.

randy

[Terry]

Harvey: Vertical boards sound like a lot of work and visually may not look right; especially how will you 'manage' the visual change from horizontal to vertical. Also wondering that the many pieces of vertical board will more likely expose end grain of wood to rain/dampness which means, even if PT wood is used for this, let's call it an "Apron", the vertical pieces will eventually rot and then have to be replaced/ renewed? Again a lot of work cutting and fitting and probably a small amount of damage to other wood? And low down but with bottom edges not in contact with the damp ground, a PITA to work on and hard on the knees! Also agree lattice in a small space like that will 'clash' visually with the horizontal planks of the deck and the bricked area. But if it's workmanlike job, does it really need any more finishing than now? If the space does look a bit 'messy' or unfinished; why not just box it in horizontally with a clean plank or length of plywood, secured by a few non rusting screws; eventually it will need replacing same as many individual pieces of wood, but will be a relatively straightforward and much easier job for the next owner or yourself when, by that time, you may be older, retired and less inclined (speaking from personal experience) to have to repair it! For example our 16 by 24 heavily built PT wood deck and redwood wind fence on steel angle posts in concrete; "Geez. I built that thing 30+ years ago cos. SWMBO wanted it. Now, (in my 70s!) I have to do it over again!!!!!!" Have fun. :-)

[Harvey Van Sickle]

On 13 Jul 2004, Howie wrote

Personally views...

Lattice would, to me, make it *way* too busy: you've already got a couple of strong textural patterns in the boards and bricks, and I'd be afraid that adding a third would make my eyes water...

Your wife's idea of individual vertical boards might work, but I see two problems: firstly, it might look like the deck boards were sort of dripping over the edge of the deck -- a bit odd. Secondly (and more of a problem), you'd have to address the join between the horizontal and vertical boards.

If you'd intended to have a vertically boarded apron, you'd probably have made the deck boards longer -- that is, to overlap them by the depth of the vertical facing boards. As it stands, you're either going to expose the end grain of the vertical boards, or you'll have to introduce a horizontal finishing strip between the horizontal and vertical decking boards.

FWIW, I had an almost identical problem to address, except that my lower, sloping level has large pebbles rather than brick (which makes it easier to hide the bottom of the facing treatment). I used length- wise boards along the front of the deck, cutting the bottom one to fit to the slope. I've been entirely happy with the result.

(I'd nip outside and take a picture of it, but it's night-time here in the UK.)

[Trent©]

I'd go with her idea...but with a minor revision. More below...

I think she's right, Cory. If you make the top even with the top of the deck, yer gonna see the slope at the bottom...because each webbing of the lattice gives you a horizontal visual effect.

But you guys could try it...and see how it looks. It'll only take you a few minutes to cut a piece.

I'd go with your wife's idea...but don't go true vertical. Cut each piece on an angle...leaning to the right...something similar to your forward slashes / above...maybe between 1 o'clock and 2 o'clock on a clock face. Doing it that way will take away from the tendency to visually match that part with the deck boards on top. As you cut each piece longer for the slope, I doubt that you'll notice it.

2nd choice...

Go with true vertical...but use a smaller width of board. Again, you want to get away from the tendency to visually compare the two planes. And don't MATCH the upper pattern. Put the first board so that its over the crack on the upper board...not in-line with the board.

3rd choice...

Something COMPLETELY different...like a piece of exterior plywood with a series of murals painted on it...ducks, raccoons, other small animals, etc.

Personally, I think you guys are making a huge mistake. Ask the KIDS what to do with it!! lol

P.S. It looks really good...came out really nice!

Good luck...

Have a nice week...

Trent©

What do you call a smart blonde? A golden retriever.

[ameijers]

1. Well, since you didn't do the traditional overhang on the deck boards- band the whole thing with a horizontal rim joist, to 'frame' the deck surface. Something thick, and sturdy enough to take the wear on the edges.
2. If the deck frame is pretty enough, ahove paver blocks or another board behind the existing framing. Make it a darker color so it will vanish.
3. If you just want to keep animals out, make a tube of hardware cloth, spray it matte black, and shove it under deck frame so it is a jam fit.
4. It'd mean redoing part of the pavers, and renting a saw, but get some big blocks of matching stone or tinted concrete, and add a stone border between the two levels. You could do the same thing in wood, if you can get some big beams that will hold up to the weather. What, you don't have a bandsaw to cut a taper on 8x8 beams?
5. Some stone or wood benches to define the border, with a gap to walk through. Maybe a table for plants.

etc, etc. Don't overthink it. Live with it a few weeks, and the solution will likely present itself.

aem sends....

[Howie]

1. How about a section of fine privacy lattice behind (inside) the outside

2 x 6? To get access. All I would have to do is take off 5 decking boards (they are attached by screws).

1. I could also just cut a section of lattice that would have a top PT moulding (maybe a complete frame) that would be air-nailed to the bottom of the outside 2 x 6...

Howie

[Tom Baker]

I would suggest a 1 x the depth of the joist mounted with top edge matching top of deck. This is essentially what several others have suggested. Discussion; By using a single horizontal board, the danger of catching one's toe and tripping. By raising the bottom edge above the ground, the chance of rot is reduced. Visulally this arrangement simplifies by covering the several pieces and so less attention is paid to this transition; and the shadow at the bottom allows any difference in the line of paving to line of framing to be ignored. If you like, the bottom face of the frame can be painted a dark color to emphasize the shadow effect.

TB

[HA HA Budys Here]

That's a good spot to place a row of windowbox planters. A thick "hedge" of impatiens or tiger lillies would look great along that step, and hide the guts of the deck.

[Karen]

If you have time, I'd suggest a few (1 to 4) rectanguler wooden planters along the edge. You can plant some every greens, shrubs and flowers even a small tree to beautify the area.

If it's too much work, you can make a bench along the edge.

If it's also too much work, you can just leave it as it is. I don't see any reason to cover it. After you put a few huge planters (bigger than the one in your photo), no one would notice it.

[Martin]

Could you fill the gap with a row of the pavers, dimensions permitting?

[Howie]

The edge that we are trying to hide is also the main access to the deck. We would have to step over any planter boxes we put in.. The planter boxes would also have to be quite narrow as the access to the lawn is through the right (in right section of photos). It is only about 54' wide, I need to be able to get the lawn mower by.

[Sue]

nice deck.

If it was my deck I'd think about a horizontal board (s) cut to fit the space. I think the short vertical boards will be busy, and your eye will try to connect the deck to the patio pavers. The lattice will be busy too. You have nice clean lines there. I'd want to keep them that way.

[ivan]

A nice tile or maybe face brick would look nice.

Ivan