Has anybody had any experience with using those shrink wrap polyolefin interior storm windows?
Either the DIY style, like
TimR wrote the following:
They work somewhat. I had used some on the outside of my basement windows from a roll of the clear wrapping plastic that you see being spun around a pallet of boxes, etc. Using a digital thermal measurer, there was about a 5 degree increase in surface temp on the interior glass with the film than the one without. I recently replaced the film with 1/8" plastic acrylic sheeting.
I plan to make this my summer project in preparation for next winter. I tried just attaching shrink-wrap to our steel-casement windows a couple winters ago, but it wasn't really very effective. Attaching the shink wrap to a tight-fitting frame might be the ticket.
Thanks for the link.
Mike
I've used the shrink-wrap and tape inside storms on a dwindling number of windows each year. They work well, go up fairly easy, and eliminate all infiltration as they are supposed to.
As the windows get replaced with energy star- low-e thermopanes, the inside storms aren't worth the effort. [to me, anyway]
I'm down to one room that will get 3 new windows to replace the 100yr old windows with 70 year old aluminum storms this summer. I won't miss putting those shrink-wrap deals up anymore.
Jim
This isn't sounding good. The first two replies fail to report any decent results. If this keeps up maybe I won't waste the effort.
Maybe I need to build something more substantial with real panes.
...or replace the windows.
Even if you build "something more substantial with real panes" you'll need a way to seal them to the windows. If you don't create a dead-air space, you won't gain anything.
Our back door just had single-glazing. I found a whole bunch of storm windows with aluminum frames at the local building recyclers - nice thing about those is that the frames come apart and can be cut (along with their rubber seals) to whatever size you want.
I made a new frame the right size for that back door, cut the glass, then put some foam sealant on the 'new' frame and screwed it directly to the door. Works a treat (we used to get ice on the inside of the glass in winter prior to that :-)
Total job only took me about 30 minutes, and the original storm windows were only 50 cents each...
cheers
Jules
TimR wrote the following:
5 degrees per window isn't a decent result? What did you expect with film?Ughh, yes, I have used the blasted stuff and hated it. It took more fuss to just put the stupid stuff on then what its worth. I found with it, that over a few months, on windows above heaters, the double sided tape would dry out and lose effectiveness, hence allowing the plastic wrap to fall or become useless. And kids seemed to enjoy poking holes into it or playing with it until it rips. Honestly, if I were you, I would either replace the windows or go to a building recycler as stated above. 9/10 times they will have an aluminum window that will cover beautifully already there. If not, they are really easy to take apart and customize for your application. Good Luck, hope this helps.
camryguy wrote the following:
My basement windows are 30" x 16-1/2" and are the hopper type that can be reversed to open in from the top or bottom. The film was on the outside of the window frame and was taped to the frame. I couldn't put it on the inside because the latch was in the way. There is also a bug screen outside that protects the film from flying stones or other debris when mowing. The film never deteriorated or became damaged. I did replace the film with a more permanent acrylic sheet that fit nicely into a recess around the outside of the frame. But still, the film did provide enough of a difference in temps for me to buy the acrylic sheets.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.