Shoddy shed shingling

On a shed roof, if the bottom row tabs are not stuck down it is a simple matter to just stick a caulking gun or a stick up under each edge tab and stick them down. We are talking what/ 8 feet per side? That's how I did mine. No starter strip in the shingle bundles - and ice guard only came in 100 foot rolls. I only needed 30 feet, so I flipped the first row of shingles and nailed them over the 15 lb roofing felt, then shingled the roof. The south east side sealed perfectly, the north west side (prevailing wind too) I stuck down with bulldog cement - about a dime sized daub under each tab.

15 year shingles - about 13 years ago, so might need to redo it in a couple years. The installation will outlast the product, for sure.
Reply to
clare
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My point exactly. The job was definitely done to the "good enuff" standard.

Reply to
clare

I didn't notice any jesting, but I do now see that I was mistaken in thinking that the protective film should have been removed.

However, there is no "Do Not Remove" marking on that protective film on the new shingles -- but the on-line FAQ says that it is not necessary to remove it.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

And I'll bet the instructions on the bundle say it.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

6t$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org...

Been awhile since I shingled (15 years?) but I think the instructions printed plainly on hte bundles say to do it that way or use starter strip.

I should buy a bundle just tohave those instructions for this discussion that pops up _every_ year.

They should print in BIG, BLACK, BOLD LETTERS " Read the frikken instructions" on each bundle.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

The self-adhesive starter strip rolls are 33'.

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Two questions. Do you use the same upside down shingle method on larger roofing jobs, and why do you not follow the manufacturers' instructions on cutting off the tabs, particularly if you're just going to have to add adhesive?

R
Reply to
RicodJour

No. That's why I looked at the Web site. And even there it's not in the installation instructions: only in an FAQ.

Perce

Reply to
Percival P. Cassidy

Why waste the time and effort cutting off the tabs, when they do no harm left on? On a house, you "might" see a ridge about 6-12 inches up where the thicker under-section stops. On a shed?????

On my house it has 15 lb felt over the whole roof, ice guard up the ends of all the gables, and 2 runs of ice guard on all the eaves, covered with 25 year fiberglass shingles, as well as galvanized drip edge, all the way around, under the ice guard.

Reply to
clare

I just roofed our new shed with the same "architectural" shingles used on our new home (TAMKO Heritage):

1) The instructions recommended cutting the tabs off and turning the shingle around for the starter strip, just like shingle makers have recommended for decades. They also recommended using their starter strips as an option. 2) The shingles and shingle installation instructions specifically say "do not remove the plastic strip". This is good because I tried to remove one and it is practically impossible. I am told the plastic on newer (how old is newer? Dunno!) shingles is degradable. It is there to keep shingles from sticking during transport and then degrades during early life to provide adhesion. Years ago the strips were more like tape, with a loose end, which made them easy to remove.

Maybe your roof wasn't as bad as you thought. If it is still there after 20 years and doing its job it might have been OK.

RonB

Reply to
RonB

-snip-

Cause if you put the shingles on right- so the tar holds the next row of shingles down- the tabs will be out flopping in the breeze.

Jim

Reply to
Jim Elbrecht

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