Shocked!

"No longer code" is "wrong".

Reply to
bud--
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If there is not a metal water service (10 ft...) the water pipe must be bonded using 250.104.

If there is a metal water service (10ft...) the water pipe must be connected as an earthing electrode, not the same as bonding. 250.50 and following

If there is a metal water service pipe (10ft...) that is all wrong.

Reply to
bud--

A quibble - a metal water service pipe (10ft...) is not a "permissible" electrode. It is a *required* electrode.

I know this is merely temporary insanity and you know better.

When there is a metal water service pipe (10ft...) it is always code compliant to connect the entry protectors to the pipe, but now only within 5 ft of entry to the house.

I am too lazy to look up rules for if the pipe is "bonded" (plastic service pipe).

You are easily the "most right". I don''t understand why this is as difficult as it seems to be.

Reply to
bud--

He didn't say 'violation' either. Said the ambiguous "not code" and other comments made it clear he doesn't think it's a violation.

Reply to
Wes Groleau

Other posts made it clear he meant not required by code. Don't crucify him for failure to edit extensively. That would violate Usenet tradition.

Reply to
Wes Groleau

That's easier if you know what you are doing. It requires contact with the point being tested AND with a ground of some sort. Not everything that is metal or looks like it is even a capacitive ground.

And, unless you understand how the light works, you don't know which side is hot.

Reply to
Wes Groleau

I would--the one that's marked and recommended already by several others

Which is what I said in the part snipped.

Reply to
Wes Groleau

Fred do not call any local electrician they will not know anything no disrespect to them Call you electrical supply company that could be problem with transformer outside I run in similar problem few years back where electrical company screwed up left transformer ground floating I would be very careful.

Reply to
grumpy

And once again, as I've pointed out about 6 times now, it's not true that it's "not code" today to have a wire running from the panel to a water pipe. It's not true that it's "not code" today to under certain circumstances to have the CATV, phone grounded to a water pipe. Not code means that you couldn't do that today, when in fact code says you can. Good grief.

Reply to
trader4

Thanks Bud. Good to see we're back to agreeing on things again :) The irony here of course is that most of the folks here don't seem to understand what's code, proper, etc, yet someone suggested the OP who is obviously a novice start looking at the ground wires attached to his water pipes. The worst part was that suggesting that it's "no longer code" to see a ground wire from the panel, CATV, phone, etc going to a water pipe is wrong. To me, a novice would likely infer from that if he finds such a thing, it needs to be corrected, could be the cause of his shock problem, etc.

Robert later said that he meant the OP should go find those so that he can point them out to the electrician. I don't have a problem with that. But the "not code today" part as we agree is wrong. Not just for older systems, either, but for code in new work.

As I said before, another thing the OP could do is trace out the plumbing system to identify how the energized section is connected back to the rest of it, eg if there is a plastic section in between it and the rest of the plumbing, etc. He should of course do that without touching the metal portion. But most important is to get an electrician in there. That of course assuming this was a real post and not a joke to get us all going.

Reply to
trader4

It's only a flame war because certain unnamed people on this list are moronic idiots. If people weren't such numb skulls, the list would be a lot better. If we could block all the bottom posters, top posters, people who can't spell, flamers, and religious zealot cultists, we'd have a pretty good list. If you fry yourself on the pipe, you still have to sign up for Obama Care?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Goal post move, noted. Is that the best you can do?

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

And the next question. What to do about a bad neutral? I remember a house, a friend asked me about a power socket that wasn't working. They were trying to use window AC. Read just fine on my three bulb tester. The problem turned out to be that the neutral in the panel box wasn't tightly screwed into the bar. So, I snugged all the neutral and ground screws at the bus bars. That took care of the problem, and found several loose connectors. Working inside panel box is very risky, there is a LOT of potential ways to get zapped. The OP should have that done by electrician.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

That's a very real possiblity, for the OP of this thread.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

.

Let's review this one more time:

"If you want to do something before help arrives, I might*look* (but not touch) for any clamps with wires that are attached to your water supply lines. Incoming phone terminals, CATV lines, the circuit box area and the furnace areas are places you might find a ground wire connection (no longer code)."

Let's just look at one simple, easy piece of that. The OP goes looking at his circuit box area and finds a wire running from the panel to his cold water pipe, either the incoming water service or the metal water pipes of the house if the water service is plastic. That is not only allowed in current code, it's *required* in current code. And it's also perfectly normal in older homes. It's just flat out wrong to say it's "no longer code".

Reply to
trader4

"Not required by code" is "wrong".

Reply to
bud--

Only if you are not drinking the kool aid.

Reply to
Gordon Shumway

Often the simple neon bulb testers do not need a ground to tell which side is the hot one. Just hold one of the leads in your hand and put the other one to the circuit. Most often it will light up evenif you are not grounded. The digital volt meters (VOM) will show a good bit of voltage when the same test is ran.

You can also get the voltage test sticks that are battery powered and they will light up /sound off on a hot wire. They do not require any ground or even a direct contact with the circuit as they are fully insulated.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

In some areas, electricity is distributed through the water pipes. There is a splitter, usually located outside or in the garage, that separates the electricity and the water. It's very similar to the DSL splitter that separates voice from data over the twisted pair wires coming into your house.

Your splitter may be defective. Call the power company and tell them what's happening, and that you believe that your Dihydrogen Monoxide Electroresister Distributor is defective.

Reply to
sms

That happened to my cousin, last week. I'd forgotten it, until you brought it up.

They may need to refill the blinker fluid.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

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