Shingle starter strip question.

I am about to shingle a shed I just put up and I have a question about the starter strip. I am using Timerline Ultra 30 shingles and I have read that I should create a starter strip by cutting the tabs off the shingle. I don't really see a tab it just has a raised part to give it an architectural look. Do I need a starter strip? Also, if I need to create a starter strip where should I nail, just below the tar strip ? Thanks.
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the function of the starter is to have a shingle under the gaps between the shingles of the first couse. i have seen people cut the bottom portion of a timberline shingle off, and use the top portion for a starter. you can also get actual starter strip that goes with timberlines. when i put shingles on my shed, i just cut a shingle into small pieces and put one under each joint in the first course (wouldn't do this on a house, but on my own shed it was fine).
you can nail the starter fairly close to the edge of the roof to prevent the wind from picking it up. then, the first course of shingles will glue themselves to it.
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Most pros just put a strip of regular shingles installed upside down, nothing special just whatever is leftover from another job..
The disadvantage to this is that there is no tar strip under the first course of shingles and the wind could get under them.
You could cut off the tabs off of regular shingles and then nail them as per the instructions on the package.
If you must use the timberline shingles you would cut off the portion of the shingle that would be exposed 5" or so. Depending on how many extra shingles you have its going to be allot cheaper to use regular plain shingles.
One advantage to using the timberlines is that the first row of shingles will have the right amount of "lift" to them and won't look as "flat".

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

The instructions will be on the bundle wrap. In general you cut off the tabs and lay the remainder upside down (puts the tar strip at the edge of the roof). Since your shingles don't have tabs, you cut off what would be the tabs and use the rest. Be sure to offset the starter strip by whatevere offset you are using so the joints will be covered by your first row of shingles. i.e., if you start the starter will a full strip, then the first shingle strip has to start with a cut shingle.
By the by, it is a good investment to buy a shingle hatchet. They make the work so much easier and faster.
Harry K
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Thanks all for the help. One more question if you may.... how many nails should I put on a single 36" shingle?
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One nail at each end, and one nail at each 'tab'
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

If you haven't yet, and it appears you haven't, read the shingle wrapper. It has full installation instructions.
R
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

As Ricod...says, it will state on the wrapper. In general it is one nail on each end plus one at each tab cutout for a total of 4. Your shingles don't have tabs but I will bet they still specify 4.
Harry K
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Harry K wrote:

Or 6 if you're in a high wind area.
R
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Starter strips are mandatory for a couple of reasons. Instead of cutting up and throwing away parts of shingles to make starter strips, buy a starter strip roll. There about 30' long and it's a lot faster and cheaper. Your local roofing supply or good building supply house will have the rolls.
R
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buy a bundle of jet shingles, no tabs at all
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