Shingle Siding/Corner Boards

You can also install flashing cards, bent around the corner, to help with weather resistance. They work just like they might at a roof/wall interface. Tom

Reply to
tom
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Someone is giving you a line of crap. If the corner shingles are woven (you called it staggered) it's tighter and less likely to leak than having a continuous gap, whether it's caulked or not, running up the entire height of the siding.

If you do go without corner boards, make sure the corners are woven. It's not only weathertightness, but appearance and the corners are less likely to open up.

As another poster mentioned, you can use building paper bent over the top of each succesive course - think of it as vertical step flashing.

R
Reply to
RicodJour

Our house has cedar shingle siding that is 30+ years old and is ready for replacement. The current installation doesn't have corner boards, and the contractors I've talked with all recommend corner boards to avoid leaks. I've done some research and have found approved installation methods that don't require corner boards (you either stagger the corner shingles or bevil them).

From a personal standpoint, I don't like the appearance of corner boards, and don't want to add them unless they are really necessary. On the other hand, my first priority is keeping the water out, and my second priority is appearance.

Does anyone in this forum have experience in this area? What's the current thinking on corner boards?

Opinions appreciated.

KB

Reply to
Kyle Boatright

Thanks for the input. Staggered/woven with the building paper sounds like the way to go.

KB

Reply to
Kyle Boatright

Usually inside corners are done with a board but outside corners are staggered. Sounds like the contractor is trying to save himself a little time. I usually cut the shingle that laps just a hair wider that it needs to be and then take one or two passes with a small hand plane to fare it in to the other shingle.

CR

Reply to
CR

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