Sheetrock question

Yes, using a nail gun to nail off shearwalls can lead to lots of overdriven nails......

but I think the issue is way overblown......

I dont have the tech paper with me but about 10 years ago we did some shearwall testing to determine the effect of overdriven nails on shearwall strength.

I going from memory.......we "over drove" the nails using a pin punch, through the first layer.

We "over drove" 10%, 30% and 50% of the nails.... again from memory I think it wasn't until either 30% or 50% that the strength was effected and even then the effect was catostrophic.

Here is a link to a more recent paper...

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I didn't have the disciple to read it completely but in the references it cites the tech paper to which I referred.

So unless your friend over drove nearly all of the nails, the inspector was actually "wrong" but that doesnt matter since they're always right.

cheers Bob

Reply to
BobK207
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Then forget about it. -----

- gpsman

Reply to
gpsman

Well it will pierce the paper, it has too. It should also produce a small indent around the screw or nail head. Without the indent the screw or nail would poke up above the surface of the wall. Not good. With the indent it gets filled with dry wall compound.

Reply to
sligoNoSPAMjoe

Don't ever use that guy again for anything!

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Ditto...To "get it RIGHT" you need to use a drywall screw gun set to the PROPER depth and drive the screws STRAIGHT in and NOT cockeyed...DO NOT use a cordless driver that MOST carpenters and homeowners TRY to use...It ALWAYS creates problems with screw pops due to over driving screws....Dimple any missed screw holes in by GENTLY tapping them with the handle of your drywall knife..That is what the steel end cap at the bottom of the handle is for........Good luck....

Reply to
benick

Ditto. I too am a very practical guy and although it may take me a while I can complete most jobs to a fairly good standard.

But... matching a knockdown texture just produces a horrible mess every time. It's depressing.

And I'm sitting here with my tail between my legs waiting for a pro to arrive in the next few minutes to "rescue" my last attempt at same which SWMBO has (quite correctly) declared unacceptable.

Reply to
Malcolm Hoar

Don't feel bad Malcom...Matching somebody elses texture or swirl patterns is a challange even for pros...I TRY to steer customers away from such stuff as it is ALWAYS a pain to try to patch and match down the road..LOL..Good luck....

Reply to
benick

It won't make a bit a difference, since he glued or PL'd the studs b/4 hanging. Uhhhhhh, that's providing he glued or PL'd the studs.

I wouldn't think about putting a covering such as Corian over _unglued_ rock, unless you like asking for trouble.

Reply to
Jimmy

On 2/9/2009 5:21 AM snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com spake thus:

Only the shank of the screw should pierce the paper, not the entire head.

Reply to
David Nebenzahl

Just buy this guy some 50 cent "dimpling bits" at home depot and shoot some more screws. The dimpling bits work great, they release the screw just as it dimples the paper without tearing it. Or just shoot more screws yourself while he is away. The paper should not be torn to get the most strength. Also if it's a wet area you should be using stainless steel screws anyway.

Reply to
RickH

It has a fiberglass skin instead of paper. It costs a little more, but doesn't give mildew anything to eat.

Reply to
SteveBell

Exactly

Reply to
sligoNoSPAMjoe

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