Sheet rock repair

Two weeks ago, or was it three, we had record rain fall in the north east. It rained like 9 consecutive days.
One Saturday morning, I woke up discovering the kitchen floor dripping wet in my 30 some year old split in New Jersey. I poked a hole into the sheet rock, about two gallons of rain water came pouring down into the bucket I placed below. Cutiing up the sheet rock to a big enough hole to look, I found the source of leak is from the chimney to roof flashing. So I went to Home Depot and bought some flashing pieces, sheet metal screws and roofing adhesive and took care of the leake the same day.
I also took the opportunity to add insulation to the part of the attic where the leak occurred. This part is normally not accessible. I also wanted to put a sky light up but the wife didn't like the idea.
I was lucky, the area of sheet rock which sustained water damage is a full size 4x8. So now the area is all sealed up with batt insulation waiting for the sheet rock to go up.
So what is the question?
The question is when I cut up the old sheet rock at the joint, I found the tape at the joint extremely hard to remove. When the new sheet goes up, I will be faced with the new sheet rock tapered and around it thickened or flush. If I tape the joint again, it is not going to look good because the existing sides will be raised. What should I do?
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You'll probably be the only one to notice the imperfection. Until it leaks again. Tom
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Silly. Can't you cut a bit extra and buy an extra sheet of drywall or get a 4x10 instead of 4x8 drywall?
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4x8 5/8" sheetrock

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Jack wrote:

I have to check. But I think existing is 5/8".
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You should "float" out the seam with joint compound in several coats. It will spread out the imperfection.
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try sanding a bevel in the edge of the old cieling so you have a place to put the new tape.

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PipeDown wrote:

Yes. That's the idea I am looking for. Thanks. Existing aheet rock is 5/8", BTW.
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It would probably be easier to keep wetting the joint compond at th tape until it softens enough to remove. It really doesn't take long t soak it "soft". Otherwise, you can feather the joints out twice as wid as existing and loose the hump that way
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