Shed double door replacement


In the grand scheme of things this is a pretty minor problem. But........
The double doors on my shed have deteriorated past fixing.
I need to open both at once to get my riding mower in and out.
I had thought to replace the existing doors with a piece of plywood or OSB. Problem is, the opening is 49 inches, so I can't get two doors out of one piece of board.
Would it be a dumb idea to add a board to one or both of the jambs? Or is there a more obvious solution to this?
Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TimR wrote:

What could be more obvious? Other than skipping a door...do you really need one?
Do realize that a sheet of plywood as a door is not going to stay anywhere near flat.
--

dadiOH
____________________________
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

My first thought would be to cut the plywood into two 24" doors and attach the hinges. On one of the doors, nail a 1x4 along the far edge with half of the width hanging over the edge of the door. When you close the doors, the door with the 1x4 is closed last, covering the gap.
Paul
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Exactly!!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi Tim,

I built a 48" wide door for my shed, using a frame made of 2x2 rails (top and bottom), screwed to 2x4 stiles (each side). The 2x4's give a little more "bite" for the hinge and latch screws. This is covered with a thin sheet of 3/8" plywood, and trimmed out with 1x4 trim boards on the outside for appearance. I used heavy duty gate hinges and a sliding gate latch with a lock. I like to use Simpson Strong Drive screws (usually located with joist hangers and whatnot in the home centers) for mounting the hinges into the studs.
If your opening is 49 inches wide, I would add a 1x board (3/4" thick) on one side as a filler. This would leave a 1/4" gap with a full sheet of plywood. This is a bit more than you need for the door to swing open, but you could probably center the door in the opening so there's only 1/8" on each side.
Add trim on the outside of the shed to cover the filler strip, mount the door, and add stops on the inside so it doesn't swing all the way in.
Have fun,
Anthony
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TimR wrote:

Cut the plywood the size you need, then use the rest of it to build some shelves.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
TimR wrote the following:

No
--

Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
In typed:

Of course you can get a 49" door out of one sheet! Consider that the sheet needs a frame and let the frame create the needed half inch or whatever you need on each side. It's really rather simple to do.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you are having 2 doors, frame and sheet the entire opening to fit and cut into the 2 sections apart after you are done. Any other way you waste much time trying to get things to fit and close right.
Joe
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

This is my shed. The doors are made of plywood, framed by 1 x 4's for stiffness as well as looks.
http://www.handyhome.com/images/Kingston.jpg
They are hinged with piano hinges between the vertical 1 x 4's and the outside 1 x 4's are screw through the shed wall into the studs.
You could easily cover your 49" opening with a 48" sheet using this design. With a gap between the 2 doors and the space required for the hinge's, you're almost at 49" anyway. Any other adjustments can be made just by the correct placement of the 1 x 4's.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Great looking shed, wish my neighbors garage looked this good.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Thanks!
And what a deal...
I had just bought (and loaded into my trailer) about $250 worth of material to build what was going to be not much more than a 4 x 6 lean- to shed. I walked back into HD to get one more thing and saw a hand written sign that said "Open Box Shed Kits - See Manager."
The manager took me to an open pallet full of the material for that shed, normally $550, and said I could have it for $250. We unloaded the other stuff from my trailer and reloaded it with the shed kit.
As I was reviewing the instructions, I noticed things like no sill plates for the stud walls, and other cost cutting measures - these parts weren't missing, they just weren't even used in the original kit. The next time you're in the HD parking lot, take a look at their sheds and you'll see where they cut corners to keep the prices down.
Since I only paid $250 for the kit, I bought a few extra studs so I could build proper walls.
I also bought 4 "open packages" of shingles at Lowes for $10 each, which was *just* enough to roof it.
The $550 kit doesn't include the flooring or roofing materials, but all in I paid less than $350 and ended up with a much better structure than the kit normally provides.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That solution is better than what I'd come up with. I'm glad I asked.
Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.