Securing cable to joists

I want to run a new cable from one side of the basement to the other, running perpendicular to all the joists. I know it is inadequate to simply staple the cable to the bottom because it is not adequately protected, but how about where it runs through a drop ceiling? Since it is protected by the ceiling, would stapling it there be okay?
thanks.
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Toller wrote:

That question should be addressed to the inspector who will have to inspect the finished work. Most drop ceilings are not considered structural so the inspector could rule either way. -- Tom Horne
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Toller wrote:

Ask the local inspector. If it's not going to be inspected, pronounce it "protected by the ceiling" yourself and just doit, or run wires in conduit.
If know the NEC doesn't make a distinction here, but you could use UF instead of NM cable -- UF is pretty near indistructable. If the inspector won't let you run NM cable across the joists behind a drop ceiling, it wouldn't hurt to ask him about UF.
Bob
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simply
I'm pretty sure the NEC forbids attaching romex to the bottom of joists, suspended ceiling or no. I also doubt that UF cable would be any different. Of cours your local authority has final say on anything, so check with them.
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Why is this so complicated. Go to your local building supply store and buy the cheapest furring strips you can find. Nail them across the joists and staple the cable to them. Job done.... If by chance there is not enough room between the drop ceiling, you can always use a bunch of 2x4 blocks between each joist, but thats more work to cut each to fit.
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On Sat, 29 May 2004 02:06:46 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@nospam.com wrote:

Even simpler to drill holes in the joists.
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You obviously have never drilled holes in 20 joists without a right angle drill!
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drilling would be even easier. If you need to, a right angle drill can be rented for maybe $10.
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Yes I have including joists on 12" centers, although mostly 16". I have never used a right angle drill although it sounds like a great idea.
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It definately sounds better than a wrong angle drill :)
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A Milwaukee Hole-Hawg (1/2" right angle drill, see http://www.mytoolstore.com/milwauke/1675-6.html ) and a 3/4" or 7/8" auger bit is a wondrous beast. Once the bit digs in, it pulls you through.
I rent one if I'm doing a lot.
If not, I use a standard Dewalt 12V drill with an auger. Just about as nice to drill, but pulling the wire ain't so nice.
Comparisons:
http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/articles/showarticle.asp?articleID 16&position=2&type=article&partID=1
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
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On 31 May 2004 16:59:52 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@nortelnetworks.com (Chris Lewis) wrote:

and if you het a nail or bolt it picks you up and runs you hand into the nails sticking out of the floor been there did it

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Heh. Doesn't have to be one of those, tho.
I was running a string of 7/8" holes for a stove circuit thru 2" rough sawn white pine ceiling joists. With a 12V Dewalt. Having a great time, no problem in drilling the 30 or so holes on a single charge...
Hand slipped, and the battery pack punched me in the side of the face (cheekbone actually).
It was all I could to do hold onto the ladder and not fall off - couldn't see straight for several minutes....
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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I have drilled several hundreds of holes in joists without a right angle drill, most were drilled with a spade bit on an extension, after that I started using a 1/2" bellhanger bit that is about 18" long. You drill in at an angle, making the angle the opposite way on every other joist so that when you pull your cable through it follows the angles up on one joist then down on the other. If you drill them all the same angle your cable has to follow a saw tooth pattern and is difficult to pull through.

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Sure have, hundreds... No big deal. Especially with an auger bit (rather than a spade). Do all my holes with a 7/8" auger. Bit sucks the drill through...
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
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