Sears G. Door Opener Won't Go Down With Remote

When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch) then the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of that flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.
The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have to hold the button down on the wall switch.
It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:
- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine using the wall switch.
- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will open the door every time.
- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes down with the wall switch.
I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at this for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
model info: Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP Model: 139.536415RT
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also, the battery is new in the remote
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It's the sensors. DJS

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I did replace the sensors a few weeks ago, it actually worked after that for a short time then this happened.
Besides, my thinking was this: if it was the sensors, why does the door go down fine with the wall unit? (and I do not have to hold the button). If a faulty sensor was preventing the door from going down, it should prevent it regardless of whether I use the remote or the wall button.
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Your thinking is correct. Faulty sensors require the wall control to be held down in order to close. At least on my doors.
But perhaps on this system faulty sensors prevent remote down but not wall switch down?
Check sensors again for proper function.
Sorry missed the OP
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I have a solid green light on both the sending and receiving eye sensors. I just found some info on the web that says when the bulbs flash 10 times and the door moves down just one inch, then it's a sensor problem. But as I said, the sensors are new and the door moves down with one click of the wall switch. All the info I find from my many web searches keeps me going around in circles, all the symptoms seem to contradict each other as to the cause of the problem.
Here's the Original Post if you didn't see it:
==================================================When I hit the remote control, the door barely moves down (1/4 inch) then the light bulb flashes 10 times. I'm still looking for the meaning of that flashing. The door will go _up_ just fine with the remote.
The wall switch works perfectly every time, up or down. I do not have to hold the button down on the wall switch.
It seems to me that these symptoms lead to conflicting conclusions:
- It can't be the safety sensors because the door will go down fine using the wall switch.
- It can't be that the remote signal is weak because the remote will open the door every time.
- It can't be that the down force is weak because again, the door goes down with the wall switch.
I cleared and re-set the remote code but no difference. I've been at this for several weeks and am really stuck so _Any_ suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
update: remote battery is new, safety sensors are new
model info: Sears/Craftsman 1/2 HP Model: 139.536415RT ==================================================
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paxton wrote:

Here is my 2 cents... I think it may be the sensors.. What you could do is check the wiring. You may have stapled through it and it may be causing a short. Also, you might want to try to switch the photocells. Take the one from the left side of the door and put it on the right and vice versa. It doesnt make sense that the door will go down without holding the button on the wall console but who knows.
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Here's what I did:
-switched positions of sensors; no change
-ran a new wire from the sensors to the main unit in case the in wall wire was damaged; no change
Then I removed one sensor and rubber banded it to the other sensor so that they are eye to eye, now I can't get it to fail. ??
Of course this bypasses the safety feature but it seems to suggest that the sensors were either not lined up, or damaged in some way so that either the sending or receiving eye is weak.
The only problem with that is, they are new sensors. I did line them up when installing. I'm not sure what else I can do except put them in the brackets and rotate the eye until I get the solid green light.
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