Screen Door Closer installation

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I own a Wright Products V2000BL Easy Touch Pneumatic Storm/Screen Door Closer.
I've installed a NEW jamb bracket -- the front edge of the jamb bracket is 1/4" from the door -- then I attached the closer to the new jamb bracket with the connecting pin.
To attach the other connecting pin to the EXISTING door bracket, I had to use a lot of strength to pull the closer out about 2 inches.
When the door is closed, the connecting pin on the jamb bracket is 2 inches from the end of the piston cylinder.
When the door is open 90 degrees, the connecting pin on the jamb bracket is 8 inches from the end of the piston cylinder.
Should I move the door bracket nearer to the door jamb? How many inches should I move it?
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On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 11:07:29 -0700 (PDT), gary

RTFB!
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The installation instructions doesn't provide this distance.
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I don't think you are looking close enough. The ones I've installed left no doubt where the thing goes. If you really can't find it, call the manufacturer.
--
Dan Espen

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The instructions say to "attach door bracket to closer tube with long connecting pin. With door tightly closed, hold closer and door bracket against the door in a level position. Pencil outline of door bracket onto the door".
Does that mean the closer tube should abut the door jamb bracket or the closer tube can be inches away from the door jamb bracket? Or doesn't it matter?
----
The instructions say "turn adjusting screw counter-clockwise for faster or clockwise for slower".
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http://www.hamptonproducts.com/includes/instructions/95004000_REVA.pdf
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Hi Oren,
I understood the 1/4" reveal.
My "worry" is the distance between the "hold open" knob and the connecting pin in the jamb bracket.
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gary wrote:

There is nothing to worry about...that distance will be fixed and correct if you don't try to mount the tube to the door with the piston extended. IOW, see my detailed post and do what it says.
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gary wrote:

1. Fasten the jamb bracket wherever they tell you it should be (1/4" seems really close to me, mine are 2-3" from the door).
2. Hook the tube to the jamb bracket
3. Put the door bracket on the tube
4. Close the door.
5. Ever so carefully, move the tube so that the door bracket is flush on the door and level (more or less) with the jamb bracket.
6. Screw it there.
You don't do a whole lot of DIY, do you Gary?
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The instructions say the open side of the (jamb) bracket should be 1/4" from the door.
I'd be a better DIY-er if the instructions provided the needed information.
(Please see my other post (same topic).
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On Tue, 14 Jul 2015 13:46:41 -0700 (PDT), gary

Well, then do that. That says exactly where it goes.

The jury is still out on that.

Why another post?
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http://www.hamptonproducts.com/includes/instructions/95004000_REVA.pdf
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Here ya go, A youtube is worth a 1,000 words,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bnEtgrwu8P0

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Very good. My question was how long should the unpainted portion of the piston rod be when the door is open.
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On 7/14/2015 8:18 PM, gary wrote:

My answer, it doesn't matter, a wind chain limits how far the door opens, I must have installed 500 or a 1,000 of these things. What I did was use really long big screws that would go through the door jamb and into the solid wood behind the jamb. I'd pin the closer and pull the piston out about an inch and move the little stop to hold it there. Then affix the door bracket to fit it. This will always keep some tension on the storm/screen door even after it's closed. The door seals and latch must allow the door to close and catch because someone isn't going to tug on it to make sure it's latched. If it's a storm door the air trapped between the storm door and solid front door changes how the storm door closes and that depends on if the front door is open or closed and if the storm door has a sliding window. There should be a wind chain that limits how far the door will open. I always made the wind chain "short" so the door wouldn't swing hard against it when the wind caught it (and it will sooner or later). The wind chain can be unhooked and a pin removed from the closure when the door has to be opened wide. It goes on and on, latches, hinges, closures, seals, door jambs, kick plates, cheap rent house or mansion, old folks or a family with 6 kids,... by the way those rods bend when the wind catches the door and there is no wind chain to catch it.
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gary wrote:

So it was. I got lost in other details. The answer is, the piston rod should be fully extended but no one can tell you in inches, you'd have to measure it.
Your problem is that you tried to place the new door bracket where the old one was. As you said, you had to "use a lot of strength" to pull out the piston to mount it in the old location. It took strength because your new door closer was shorter than the old one (they come in different lengths) and/or the brackets were configured differently.
To fix things, remove the door bracket and reattach it with the piston fully closed.
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I don't need a wind chain.
As I mentioned in my original post, the only thing I replaced was the jamb bracket. I didn't buy a NEW closer -- I'm using the OLD closer so the length of the closer didn't change so I screwed the door bracket into the original holes in the door.
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On 7/15/2015 8:09 AM, gary wrote:

I didn't buy a NEW closer -- I'm using the OLD closer so the length of the closer didn't change so I
screwed the door bracket into the original holes in the door.

Why did you need a new jamb bracket?
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On Wednesday, July 15, 2015 at 9:09:29 AM UTC-4, gary wrote:

The problem with referring to your "original post" is that I am seeing 3 separate threads related to this issue with responses from you and others in all three.
The same thing happened in your "particle board screw" thread(s).
Can you explain why your threads keep getting split into multiple threads. It makes it darn near impossible to figure out who said what when.
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The screws were pulling out of the jamb which cause the old jamb bracket to become bent, broken and loose.
I've repaired the jamb then installed a new jamb bracket whose holes are in different locations than the old bracket.
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