Scorched Outlet and Plug from Furnace Blower Motor

Not normal, but saves putting in a switch. A switch is normal.

Greg

I can pretty much agree with your analysis but what it may have been was a
poor connection at the plug/socket resulting in the arccing that was smelled
and visible. I've seen it twice in my lifetime but was forwarned of it by my
mentor so wasn't terribly surprised when it arose.

As for removing the plug: Check with your local code envorcement office.
Around here, there is a rule that there must be a quiick disconnect on a
furnace so it can be turned off without getting near it. Around here
(upstate NY), most are located in the stairwell to the basement. Your local
enforcement people can tell you right off the top of their heads I bet if
it's required.

HTH,

Twayne`

On Sat, 4 Feb 2012 14:31:37 -0500, "Twayne"


 In MOST cases, the plug passes as the disconnect if it is reachable
from the door

MOST??   Got a cite for that, or is this just more of the nonsense you
pull out of thin air?

In MOST CASES WHERE IT IS ALLOWED. It is OBVIOUSLY allowed some
places, as there are numerous reports of it being "common" in certain
areas.

 Code requires a way of disconnecting the furnace within sight or
reach of the furnace. In most cases a switch is used - BUT WHERE A
PLUG-IN CONNECTION IS ALLOWED, the plug IN MOST CASES passes as the
disconnect.

Do you try real hard to be an ignorant prick, or does it come
naturally??

I just try to deal in fact. Fact I or others can support. Every thing
written by you in the above lines is pure conjecture. Not one shred of
evidence or documentation.

but if you want to hardwire, a toggle switch outside the door is usually
acceptable.  They even make special red cover plates for just this purpose.

nate

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 Some inspectors will require it to be INSIDE the door.
Here in Waterloo Region, Ontario, I THINK the requirement is within 6
feet of the furnace and gas shut-off. My furnace was replaced 7 years
ago, and the shutoff for both gas and electric is within arm's reach
when standing in front of the furnace service access door. (the
furnace, not the furnace room) and within 3 feet of each other.

In my old house 30 years ago I switched from oil to gas and they
installed a shutoff switch within about 3 feet of the furnace, on the
floor joist above. Cannot remember where the shutoff was for the oil
furnace but I THINK it was over by the oil tank, which was in what was
originally the coal room.  About 6 feet from the BOTTOM of the cellar
stairs.It was eliminated (wires wire-nutted together and blank plate
installed).

  There is another thread about that going on samewhere where the
arguement is "does it or does it not meet code"

 A good plug and outlet should be fine for another 30 years or so.

As I understand, that's a violation of the National Electrical Code. But, of
course, you should consult with your own town's code officer. If you're
really concerned.

Socket and plug makes it a lot more convenient during power cuts, to power
the furnace from a generaor.  Maybe just easier to leave it be.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
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.

In a rental I own the tenants called because they smelled something
burning in the closet where the natural gas furnace is located.

I went there last night and saw that the standard AC plug that comes out
of the furnace and plugs into an outlet in the closet was scorched and
they likely smelled the burning plastic.

This was not an over-current issue as the blower motor has a fuse in the
line inside the furnace (something I put in about 1987 and it has never
blown). I think it was just a crappy outlet that was making poor contact
on the hot and neutral and it was arcing every time the blower motor
turned on.

I thought it rather strange that the AC for the furnace was using a
regular cord rather than being directly connected to the AC supply with
wires inside flexible conduit, but I replaced the AC socket put in a new
cord from the junction box inside the furnace (rather than attaching a
new plug to the existing wire).

I'm thinking of going back and directly wiring it into the outlet box,
though the current plug/socket arrangement has worked since it was built
about 30 years ago.

Is it normal for the AC power for a gas furnace to be connected with a
plug/socket? It's not like that in my own house.

Personally, I'd put in a new receptacle and plug but it would be best to
check with your local electrical inspector.

As has been mentioned, it pretty much depends on where you live and what the
code enforcement for that area has specced for it. I don't know of any such
places, but I suppose there could even be areas where no more than the NEC
requirements are needed and local codes say nothing except it must be to NEC
specs.
   Here, a plug/socket is not the only method allowed. A bar-operated pull
switch could also be used. It will last longer, by decades, than a switch,
has a wiping action on the contacts when it's opened/closed and some of them
even have fuse holders for specific furnace-fusing. The How-to... site has
some pretty good information on this aspect of it all.

SMS wrote:

That may be against code or it is possibly risk factor.
All the houses I had built and lived in, furnaces had a
cut off switch(like a wall plate sw.) near the furnace. Back
at the main house panel there is also breaker dedicated to the furnace.
After all major current drawer in the furnace is blower motor.

In a house I have that was built in 1971 it has a wall receptacle in
the gas furnace closet and the furnace has a cord and plug on it just
like yours.

Not sure if it's in all cases. Any device using a plug and cord is your own
stuff, to do whatever. But, a furnace might be classed differently.

Greg

Not True Greg
plug/socket is for a
Lock-out Tag-out

Written procedures detailing the lock-out tag-out procedure are required for
equipment having two or more energy sources.

Written procedures communicate important information to persons performing
lock-out tag-out.

They identify energy sources, provide step-by-step instruction for locking or
tagging out energy sources, releasing stored energy,
and verifying the equipment cannot be re-started after lockout is applied.

Group lock-out tag-out procedures must also be clearly documented. Procedures
must be kept up-to-date, and changes must be
communicated to everyone who may possibly be affected by them. They are only
useful if all the information they contain is correct.

for more info on the lock-out tag-out.......

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the closet where the natural gas furnace is

the furnace and plugs into an outlet in the closet was

inside the furnace (something I put in about 1987

poor contact on the hot and neutral and it was arcing

cord rather than being directly connected to the AC

a new cord from the junction box inside the furnace

the current plug/socket arrangement has worked since

Do not going back with directly wiring,
For it was setup with a plug/socket for a Lock out and Tab Out system,

The lock-out tag-out standard requires that hazardous energy sources be
"isolated and rendered inoperative" before maintenance or
servicing work can begin.



plug/socket? It's not like that in my own house.

Yes For:
OSHA requires three basic elements in a lock-out tag-out program. These are
training, written procedures, and inspections. Training
is required for two types of people; "authorized employees" and "affected
employees." Authorized employees are people who do the
maintenance or servicing work. They are the people who actually perform the
lock-out tag-out. Affected employees are people who may
be affected by or work near equipment which is locked or tagged out. Affected
employees are not permitted to perform servicing or
maintenance work which requires a lock-out or tag-out.


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I've seen plugs on furnaces in Trailer homes, but not in regular houses.
You probably had a loose connection, or corrosion, it was arcing, got
hot, and burned.  You were smart replacing the whole cord, plug, and
outlet.  I see no advantage to using a plug.  If you want a shut off,
install a switch.  Then wire it direct.
The breaker to the furnace should be dedicated for only the furnace, so
that's a shut off too, but if the breaker box is far from the furnace,
add a switch for convenience.

I don't know about the code specifically but last time I had a
professional do work where he replaced my air handler for the AC he
said the current code required him to install a pull-fuse connection
box on the wall (it used to be direct connection).  This is in
addition to the regular breaker in the main panel.  Presumably there
is a code requirement that there be a way to positively disconnect the
equipment within reasonable reach of the equipment.  I don't know if a
switch would be considered equivalent but it seems to me a switch of
the type usually used in houses would be too difficult to "lock out",
too easy to accidentally flip back on.  All my AC units (the outside
part) have pull-fuse boxes on or adjacent to the unit.