sanity (or perhaps insanity) check

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Banty wrote:

Then you have a whole different set of conditions and issues to deal with.
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::googling for original post in thread::
...thought so.
Nope, this discussion wasn't specific to tile over a slab floor.
So - what issues affect tiling over glue-down vinyl on a second floor?
Banty
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Banty wrote:

Nor was it not specific. What's your point?

Proper sub-floor construction, substrate, issue of flex, etc.
Check for some links I left in the Three-season porch deck tiling....... thread, and maybe others.
Good luck.
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If you are using the spacers correctly, they should stick up from the floor. There's no way that you could leave them in place.
These are the little "+" pieces. You stand them up between the tiles. The cross part of the "+" (the "-" part) fits on top of the tile. The bottom part of the "+" gives you the gap. The top part of the "+" gives you something to grab to remove them.
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Noozer wrote:

Nice try, but that's nonsense and you're making a mountain out of a molehill.
The spacers are stuck in as one installs tiles. There's no set method of "fitting them on top of the tile" in order to be "correctly" using them. Stick the things in there to get the spacing, then yank them out with small needlenose piers before grouting.
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Is that a joke? So I guess all of the 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc inch spacers all give you a real spacing of 1/8 in or whatever that's the thickness of the things.
You lay them down flat, not vertically. Sheesh.
The tool "especially engineered for removing them" costs about $5 at the despot. As Mr. Henslee notes a pair of needlenose pliers would do just fine.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

It is to me. What he's advocating necessitates using 4 spacers at each corner.

They're about 1/8" thick, yes.

See, already a pro ;o)
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Sigh,
I get yet another clue that the contractor I hired had no clue as I install the toe kick facing on the base cabinets. This would have been so much easier to do if we had done it before installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor as I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.
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Just enough nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.
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Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

Brad nailer maybe.
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I asked about just gluing all these trim pieces in place but apparently that's a really bad idea in a kitchen where the wood is going to move a lot from the humidity. Oh well. Using 1" #18 brads so perhaps "nailing" was a bit of a misnomer.
Afraid to use a power nailer. This stuff splits very easily. Cracked 1 toe kick endcap before i decided to snip the heads off as well. Yes, that was with pre-drilling. Not pre-drilling is a non-starter.
All is well now. Things proceeding nicely. First time I've done any finish work like this and aside from that one crack everything is looking good.
The cove moulding will be the test.
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Just did mine, "after". Used my "air" powered finishing nailer and 13/16" 18 GA nails. Practiced first so I had a low setting on the air so as not to "pound" the heads in too far (~1/16th).
This was after the cabinets were in and the U/c heat vent and vac-pan were put in place. Cant see the fin nail heads unless I get down and lay on the floor. Wife will fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it bothers her.
R
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/ logical problem in your last sentence -- I think you meant to write:
"I will have to fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it bothers my wife." :-)
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Just had 18th Anniversary last week and actually, she will be doing it, if it needs doing. She's a hell of a worker. We just got thru shovelling/spreading 4 yards of roadbase 3/4" minus driveway gravel (~4 TONS) after dinner to get ready for our concrete driveway. We'll be doing the same with another 5 yards for the patio/hot tub slab at the back tomorrow. She also stained and "poly"-ed 1000 lin ft of vertical grain 1X6 Fir and painted another 1000 lin 1X6 MDF baseboard and all the walls in our new house. I get to put the Fir and MDF up but shes definitely the painter/spackler. R
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I don't lay the spacers down flat. I stand them on end in the correct orientation, use more of them, and they are easy to pluck out before grouting. They don't have to be at the corners to properly align the tiles if you use two per side. This way you can use them over and over again. Placing them after laying the tiles lets you squirm the tile to seat and level it to the others. I just finished grouting a bathroom this morning, and used a flexible 3" putty knife, along with a drywall coumpound tray, to force cuts of grout into the cracks to keep from scratching the marble tiles with the normal method. After a little setup time, a damp sponge was all that was needed to diagonally clean the grout lines. I tried this for the first time on this room, and I really liked the process and the results.
RJ

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I have seen the leave in spaces will discolor the above grout with age. Not sure why this happens, but the grout is consistantly miscolored at the corners
Thankfully it wasn't my tile. I perfer the rubberly '+' shaped spacers that stay on top the tile with only one leg in.
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