If you are using the spacers correctly, they should stick up from the floor.
There's no way that you could leave them in place.
These are the little "+" pieces. You stand them up between the tiles. The
cross part of the "+" (the "-" part) fits on top of the tile. The bottom
part of the "+" gives you the gap. The top part of the "+" gives you
something to grab to remove them.
Nice try, but that's nonsense and you're making a mountain out of a
The spacers are stuck in as one installs tiles. There's no set method of
"fitting them on top of the tile" in order to be "correctly" using them.
Stick the things in there to get the spacing, then yank them out with
small needlenose piers before grouting.
Is that a joke?
So I guess all of the 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc inch spacers all give you a real
spacing of 1/8 in or whatever that's the thickness of the things.
You lay them down flat, not vertically. Sheesh.
The tool "especially engineered for removing them" costs about $5 at the
despot. As Mr. Henslee notes a pair of needlenose pliers would do just
I get yet another clue that the contractor I hired had no clue as I install
the toe kick facing on the base cabinets.
This would have been so much easier to do if we had done it before
installing the cabinets. But no... so now its get my face into the floor as
I try nailing this delicate maple facing to the toe kicks.
I asked about just gluing all these trim pieces in place but apparently
that's a really bad idea in a kitchen where the wood is going to move a lot
from the humidity. Oh well. Using 1" #18 brads so perhaps "nailing" was a
bit of a misnomer.
Afraid to use a power nailer. This stuff splits very easily. Cracked 1 toe
kick endcap before i decided to snip the heads off as well. Yes, that was
with pre-drilling. Not pre-drilling is a non-starter.
All is well now. Things proceeding nicely. First time I've done any finish
work like this and aside from that one crack everything is looking good.
The cove moulding will be the test.
Just did mine, "after". Used my "air" powered finishing nailer and 13/16"
18 GA nails.
Practiced first so I had a low setting on the air so as not to "pound" the
heads in too far (~1/16th).
This was after the cabinets were in and the U/c heat vent and vac-pan were
put in place.
Cant see the fin nail heads unless I get down and lay on the floor. Wife
will fill them with matching colored wax "crayon" if it bothers her.
Just had 18th Anniversary last week and actually, she will be doing it, if
it needs doing. She's a hell of a worker.
We just got thru shovelling/spreading 4 yards of roadbase 3/4" minus
driveway gravel (~4 TONS) after dinner to get ready for our concrete
We'll be doing the same with another 5 yards for the patio/hot tub slab at
the back tomorrow.
She also stained and "poly"-ed 1000 lin ft of vertical grain 1X6 Fir and
painted another 1000 lin 1X6 MDF baseboard and all the walls in our new
I get to put the Fir and MDF up but shes definitely the painter/spackler.
I don't lay the spacers down flat. I stand them on end in the correct
orientation, use more of them, and they are easy to pluck out before
grouting. They don't have to be at the corners to properly align the tiles
if you use two per side. This way you can use them over and over again.
Placing them after laying the tiles lets you squirm the tile to seat and
level it to the others. I just finished grouting a bathroom this morning,
and used a flexible 3" putty knife, along with a drywall coumpound tray, to
force cuts of grout into the cracks to keep from scratching the marble tiles
with the normal method. After a little setup time, a damp sponge was all
that was needed to diagonally clean the grout lines. I tried this for the
first time on this room, and I really liked the process and the results.
I have seen the leave in spaces will discolor the above grout with age.
Not sure why this happens, but the grout is consistantly miscolored at
Thankfully it wasn't my tile.
I perfer the rubberly '+' shaped spacers that stay on top the tile with
only one leg in.
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