Samsung 27" TV doesn't work.

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The set is only a few years old, and the flyback is relatively light. I also looked at the circuit card and didn't see any marks or cracks at all. And to be honest, I'm not sure it's the flyback. There's a component called a High Voltage Tripler that sits between the flyback and the CRT. When I take the tripler out of the circuit the set powers up and goes through a short diagnostic. With the tripler in it does nothing at all.
On the schematic the tripler is just a box, with an input, output, and ground. If the triler is some kind of step up transformer, wouldn't the resistance across the input and output be infinity? I measured it at a little over a hundred ohms. Would that indicate a shorted tripler? That's what I suspect, but I don't know exactly how the tripler is set up. Any advice?
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George Jetson wrote:

Well any time you take a component out of the circuit and get more functionality than when it is in place that is pretty good evidence that you are in the right area, but the real problem might be downstream of the tripler and removing it from the circuit might also be taking other things out of the circuit that are the real problem.
That's what sucks about trying to fix this stuff as a consumer. At the shop they would try the tripler and if that wasn't it they could grab any of a hundred other parts at their disposal and try them. Ordering your first best guess on-line, waiting for it to arrive, and then trying it only to find that it doesn't fix the problem is a hell of a way to make progress. Short of seeing parts that are visibly damaged it really is a crap-shoot.
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schematic of the flyback, but I would have to unsolder it to test, and I'm trying to avoid that. If I can test the tripler and it turns out bad, I can avoid unsoldering the flyback.
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George Jetson wrote:

Hi..
http://tpub.com/neets/book7/27m.htm
Ken
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Thanks for the info. I tested it, and the tripler is bad. It's shorted between the primary and the secondary. I'll order a new one and hook it up, and let everyone in the newsgroup know if it worked. Assuming I don't electrocute myself. :)
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uh, george, are you sure that is not a voltage divider?
George Jetson wrote:

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Positive. It's called a "High Voltage Tripler" on the schematic, and a picture I found on the internet calls it a tripler.
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george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part (whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is bad.
Anyways, reflow any poor solder, especially in high heat areas and the FBT pins themselves. Check any small value fusible resistors in the FBT secondary side ckts. Look for white, ceramic heat-sink-bodied resistors near the FBT, 1 ohm or so in value, about 1-2 watts in physical size, (cant remember the actual ratings.) Check them with an ohmmeter. You may have to desolder/lift one end to measure properly.
Chances are good it is either that or the FBT its self, as pointed out earlier.
If you get the crackle of static when trying to power on, it sounds like the HV is coming up, then going right back down again. One of the fbt derived low voltages is fed back <i>somewhere</i>, but the fuse resistor is open. That could be a cheap easy fix that you may be able to locate without too much extensive troubleshooting skills or equipment, do not overlook that possibilty.
George Jetson wrote:

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hey there will also be somma them thar rectum-fliers in series with the fbt sec. & them thar fusible resistors, be sure to check them too. anonymous wrote:

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part screwed to a plastic bracket connected to the flyback by a thick cable. According to the schematic it's a tripler.
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George Jetson wrote:

sounds like you got it all under control there sparky. good luck.
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I hope so. Thanks for the help.
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He says he knows what he's doing. Leave him alone!
CWM

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wrote:

I accept that you are compfortable with your level of knowledge in that area. Now you should accept that I am NOT comfortable. I can't rely on what you say, for the reasons Charlie explained very well in his previous post. (most or all of which is quoted here.)

Replace "those" with me and Charlie. He didn't give a number, and even "those" might have referred just to me, for that matter.

No, I didn't. I said you hadn't convinced me. And that proof by assertion wasn't a proof. That doesn't mean you are lying, but it doesn't convince me that you are right, either.

Other people had answered and would answer your questions. I couldn't add to what they had said. So I didn't imply that I would answer your questions at all. You inferred that I meant that, but I didn't.

And I was annoyed by that. I guess you are trying to be polite with the phrase "don't have to offer any advice", but I took it literally. I know I don't HAVE to offer advice. I did it so you wouldn't get killed. I went to law school for a little while and one of the three or four things I learned was how easy it is for someone to get killed while he thinks he knows how to avoid it, that people are negligent all the time and most of the time they get away with it, but other times they end up dead. You can learn the same lesson by watching America's Funniest Home Videos. Well, they actually won't show any fatalities or serious injuries but they happen just like the non-serious injuries they do show.

This is a public list. If you wanted only me to read it, remove NOPSAM and email me.
I could try to lighten the tone here like you just did with Charlie, but something about your posts makes me not want to.
If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)
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snip
I went to law school for a little while
well that's the problem right there!
-
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wrote:

I got your point.
You don't seem to have gotten mine. I'll offer advice based on whether I want to or not, not based on your particular desires.
Other people read this list. Not just you.
If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)
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On Sat, 23 Dec 2006 22:18:47 +0000, George Jetson Has Frothed:

If your service manual has a troubleshooting flow chart, follow it. However in the absence of the proper test equipment and the experience to use it you might as well keep your hands out of it.
--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794
  Click to see the full signature.
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George Jetson wrote:

You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try doing that.

If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the fuck would you know that the time and channels need to be set up.

That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch, stupid.

Fuck it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.
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I'll ignore everything else you wrote, except this. I think you really don't know this.

Remember what I said? "I get a TONE that means I need to set up the time, channels, etc." A tone. As in sound. Sounds don't go through the CRT, you feeble minded bitch.
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