You didn't say that you plugged it in, asshole, maybe you should try doing that.
That's the wire that the cable company sends the picture to the tube.
If there is no voltage to the CRT, then how the f*ck would you know that the time and channels need to be set up.
That's probably because the ground wire is connected to the switch, stupid.
Well then, you're f***ed.
Fuck it and just throw it away and buy a Protron.
One of the more common (totally dead) failures I see is a cracked circuit board which interrupts some of the circuit traces. This is common in the area of the flyback due to its weight. If the set is dropped or otherwise subjected to sufficient G-forces the weight of the flyback causes enough board flex to crack it. Sometimes these are easy to see, sometimes finding all of them can be a real tough nut.
I'll ignore everything else you wrote, except this. I think you really don't know this.
"Malissa Baldwin" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@i12g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
Remember what I said? "I get a TONE that means I need to set up the time, channels, etc." A tone. As in sound. Sounds don't go through the CRT, you feeble minded bitch.
Take a shit, have an orgasm, do what it takes, but lose that attitude.
"Rick Brandt" wrote in news:KFBkh.7622$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net:
The set is only a few years old, and the flyback is relatively light. I also looked at the circuit card and didn't see any marks or cracks at all. And to be honest, I'm not sure it's the flyback. There's a component called a High Voltage Tripler that sits between the flyback and the CRT. When I take the tripler out of the circuit the set powers up and goes through a short diagnostic. With the tripler in it does nothing at all.
On the schematic the tripler is just a box, with an input, output, and ground. If the triler is some kind of step up transformer, wouldn't the resistance across the input and output be infinity? I measured it at a little over a hundred ohms. Would that indicate a shorted tripler? That's what I suspect, but I don't know exactly how the tripler is set up. Any advice?
Well any time you take a component out of the circuit and get more functionality than when it is in place that is pretty good evidence that you are in the right area, but the real problem might be downstream of the tripler and removing it from the circuit might also be taking other things out of the circuit that are the real problem.
That's what sucks about trying to fix this stuff as a consumer. At the shop they would try the tripler and if that wasn't it they could grab any of a hundred other parts at their disposal and try them. Ordering your first best guess on-line, waiting for it to arrive, and then trying it only to find that it doesn't fix the problem is a hell of a way to make progress. Short of seeing parts that are visibly damaged it really is a crap-shoot.
"Rick Brandt" wrote in news:VdCkh.7627$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net:
If I knew what was inside the tripler I could test it. I have a schematic of the flyback, but I would have to unsolder it to test, and I'm trying to avoid that. If I can test the tripler and it turns out bad, I can avoid unsoldering the flyback.
Hi..
Ken Weitzel wrote in news:ibDkh.530079$5R2.359199 @pd7urf3no:
Thanks for the info. I tested it, and the tripler is bad. It's shorted between the primary and the secondary. I'll order a new one and hook it up, and let everyone in the newsgroup know if it worked. Assuming I don't electrocute myself. :)
"anonymous" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:
Positive. It's called a "High Voltage Tripler" on the schematic, and a picture I found on the internet calls it a tripler.
george I have not messed with consumer stuff very much, but I believe the so-called triplers in TV sets disappeared quite some time ago. That thar critter appears to me to be an integrated high voltage transformer, (aka flyback transformer, aka FBT) The part/sub-part (whatever) you are calling a tripler is, I believe, actually a divider network. Note the 2 variable resistors, screen and focus. I doubt it is bad.
Anyways, reflow any poor solder, especially in high heat areas and the FBT pins themselves. Check any small value fusible resistors in the FBT secondary side ckts. Look for white, ceramic heat-sink-bodied resistors near the FBT, 1 ohm or so in value, about 1-2 watts in physical size, (cant remember the actual ratings.) Check them with an ohmmeter. You may have to desolder/lift one end to measure properly.
Chances are good it is either that or the FBT its self, as pointed out earlier.
If you get the crackle of static when trying to power on, it sounds like the HV is coming up, then going right back down again. One of the fbt derived low voltages is fed back somewhere, but the fuse resistor is open. That could be a cheap easy fix that you may be able to locate without too much extensive troubleshooting skills or equipment, do not overlook that possibilty.
George Jets> "anonymous" wrote in
He says he knows what he's doing. Leave him alone!
CWM
first things first. have you performed the test with the HOT removed and a 60-100watt bulb across c-e? have you measured the b+? without these simple tests you could be wasting time or money on the tripler or whatever. post results.
.B
"anonymous" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@42g2000cwt.googlegroups.com:
I'm sure. The schematic says "High Voltage Tripler".
"anonymous" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com:
The flyback transformer is soldered to the circuit board. There's another part screwed to a plastic bracket connected to the flyback by a thick cable. According to the schematic it's a tripler.
sounds like you got it all under control there sparky. good luck.
"anonymous" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@73g2000cwn.googlegroups.com:
I hope so. Thanks for the help.
I got your point.
You don't seem to have gotten mine. I'll offer advice based on whether I want to or not, not based on your particular desires.
Other people read this list. Not just you.
If you are inclined to email me for some reason, remove NOPSAM :-)
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