Sagging Door Grand Finale'

Happy to report that the sagging door that consumed so much bandwidth is indeed repaired:
http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p576/Puddin_Man/RepairedSaggingDoor07-2012.jpg
Took weeks to repair. Now all done. :-) Details on request.
Many thanks to snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net, DerbyDad03, dadiOH, some others, and particularly dpb for help, hints, tips, etc.
Cheers, Puddin'
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
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On 8/3/2012 6:30 PM, Puddin' Man wrote:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p576/Puddin_Man/RepairedSaggingDoor07-2012.jpg
...
See, I _told_ you you cold do it. :)
Looks good. It looks like you did get the verticals at least nearly back into the proper plane again???
Did I mention that these things take patience yet? <vbg>
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You likely mean the mis-alignment that I referred to as a "warp". I clamped it as best I could in the final glue-up and it helped, but it was still a little off. Enough of that wood had permanent warp damage that perfect alignment wasn't often practical.
And that last purty well explains why I wasn't enthusiastic about making my own dowel jig. :-)

Took more than patience in this case. The protracted blast furnace heat wave (still not over) complicated things tremendously. Before it was over I was fightin' the AC wars, and the dawg got sick, and ...
P
"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."
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Puddin' Man wrote:

http://i1156.photobucket.com/albums/p576/Puddin_Man/RepairedSaggingDoor07-2012.jpg
Glad you got it done, looks good. The details would be interesting.
One additional suggestion: in the photo, there seems to be some gapping betyween the ends of the rails and the stiles. If that is the case, I suggest that you fill them so that water doesn't get in and re-create your original problem. Bondo would work so would thickened epoxy.
--

dadiOH
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On 8/4/2012 6:38 AM, dadiOH wrote: ...

I think he's better off leaving them be so what moisture does get in there has a place to go and will dry. Otherwise it'll just still get in the crack that forms between the patch and the wood and what gets behind will be much slower drying out.
I'm presuming he used either an epoxy, resorcinol, polyurethane, or TB-III waterproof/resistant glue so I'd not be concerned over the joint itself.
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I'm inclined to agree.
Here'a a capsule summary of the details not contained in the beau coup previous posts.
I had pitched the 4 dowels that bound the hinge stile to the bottom rail and reamed out the holes with a 5/8" forstner bit (freehand). When I did a test assembly with 5/8" dowels, the sag was gone. Some pieces were slightly out of alignment due to damaged wood, but nothing serious.
Then I went down to Rockler and paid $25 for some T-88 epoxy, mixed it up, and did the final glue-up, clamp-up. Then I waited 3 days, hit it with a good coat of paint, put the windows back in, and dragged it up the stairs and out the yard to install.
There was the slightest anti-sag (higher on top), but after applying a little paraffin, the door swung to and fro clean as a whistle.
Many Thanks for your help, P
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