rusted toilet bolts

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I read a question about loosening rusted toilet seats, and 3 people recommended WD-40. Finally the last person wrote "I use WD-40 all the time, but for loosening bolts, I think you should use Liquid Wrench or penetrating oil. They are made for this purpose, not general purpose. And control your urge to try WD-40 first, because it will fill what cracks it can reach and IMVSO make it harder for the Liquid Wrench to get past there to where the serious corrosion is. Finally, let sit for 30 minutes, tapping occasionally on the bolts (though maybe tap less hard than with a car, because the toilet can break.) "
Is there a difference between wd-40 and the other two? Is there a difference between Liquid Wrench and penetrating oil? Is the last poster correct?
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Micky wrote:

Yes Yes I don't know . Try Ed's Red , a homemade concoction . Formula here :http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9 Not only a great bore cleaner , but also an excellent penetrating oil .
--
Snag



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On Saturday, May 21, 2016 at 9:48:48 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

Yes.

Yes and No. "Liquid Wrench" is a product line, not a specific product.
http://www.liquidwrench.com/products/
BTW, also consider the B'Laster line of similar products. Their penetrating oil is commonly known as PB Blaster. Ask for it by that name and most retailers will know what you are asking for.
http://blastercorp.com/Blaster-Corp-Products

I don't know. I've tried WD-40 first and then a penetrating oil. The penetrating oil still worked, but I have no idea if the WD-40 inhibited it in any way. You might need a controlled environment to determine if the WD-40 inhibited the penetrating oil, i.e. same amount of "stuck", same amount of penetrating oil, same about of loosening torque, etc.
I think getting the exact same amount of "stuck" would be the hardest part.
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On Sat, 21 May 2016 19:58:27 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Well I see that what I meant, the original product, is now labeled "penetrating oil", so I guess that settles that. I don't remember seeing that on previous containers.

Other than my toilet seat, no special need now..... Oh, there's that garden hose sprayer I can't get off. The LWrench ad mentioned that. OK.

You're right. Maybe the National Bureau of Standards would provide standardized rusted test bolts.
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On Sat, 21 May 2016 21:48:30 -0400, Micky

This a related question:
I have an oak toilet seat with brass hardware. The brass has turned green. I bought a new seat, plastic, matches the bathroom color, and I plan to take the old seat off and wash it with the garden hose. Is the jet spray enough or will I have to use a brush, and more importantly can I give this away to someone or has it reached a certain age where it will turn green much more quickly? Anyone have experience, or guesses?? I never scratched or scoured my brass, just a sponge or rag.
Curious, I found that oak seats sell for up to $75, maybe more. So I looked and one said, in abridged form "-PVD brass hinges -Stainless steel hinge screws eliminate rust.-Clean with warm soapy water.-PVD plated hinges for corrosion resistance.-
From the Manufacturer: It is corrosion proof. "
What is PVD and does this mean the brass really won't turn green?
I just checked and the threads on my seat are rusted. Plastic nuts so I guess I can still get them off.
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On 05/21/2016 09:48 PM, Micky wrote:

No it means the brass was put on with vapor deposition and is about 10 microns thick. In all fairness the process often produces a more durable product than electroplating.
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wrote:

Without writing anything down, it seemed of the 7 or so brass hardware seats on Paypal, the more expensive ones had the PVD. Maybe one of them would have done better than mine. I may have the box in the basement. If so I'll check if it claims PVD, but I'll bet not.
BTW, do you all know what BVD stands for? The underwear.
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Micky wrote:

The green is a copper oxide. Washing won't take it off, a mild acid or steel wool will. Once off it will return sooner or later (piss makes it return fast). A lacquer coat will slow down the return.
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wrote:

Well, I'm not going to to go that much trouble, frankly not either of those processes, for a seat I'm giving away, and I guess I should be tasteful enough not to give it or even offer it when I've just spray washed it. Right? I think no one would want it anyhow, on the freecycle list that I'm supposed to use based on where I live. There's a wide range of incomes that area, ... oh yeah, there are some who are very poor, but based on what's offerred at least, they are not offering. They may be taking, but I still think it would be tasteless and potentially humiliating for someone to accept my offer if it's still green and I describe it accurately. ?? Why would anyone want it if it's going to turn green again.
The cheapest plastic would be better. The cheapest plastic on Amazon is $16, and it even has the easy-clean feature I described i another post. I could have bought that but I need one for heavy people and in a particular color.

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On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 10:35:11 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

You are gifting a used toilet seat? LOL.
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On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 10:51:19 AM UTC-4, Thomas wrote:

He's saving it for Xmas. If I had such a thing, if it looked like it would still be usable to someone, I wouldn't be cleaning it up. I'd just put it at the curb a day or two before trash pickup. If someone takes it, fine. If not, it goes.
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On Mon, 23 May 2016 09:05:44 -0700 (PDT), trader_4

So you think it's too personal or something to be given away even in good, clean condition?

That would work, and I'd do it if I lived on a more public street, but the only ones who would drive by my house are the 20 or so families and their occasional visitors or deliverymen who live beyond me but not closer to the other entrance. And because I live in the outside corner house and put my trash where 2 other families do. they'd see it and I'd look bad for not cleaning it, even the green part. And especially the one guy who is mad at me for some reason he wouldn't say.
On second thought, I don't think anyone around here would take a seat that needs cleaning, which is why I thought of cleaning it in the first place. It took 2 years or maybe 10 to turn green for me, and other than that, it's still in good condition. I'll try (non-power) water jetting it and maybe I'll get lucky.
Thanks for all the helpful answers.
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On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 4:37:59 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

I've already spend more time thinking about this than that seat was worth when it was shiny and new.
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Only to you. And he's a Democrat too.
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And you are one of the few so obsessed with it that you'd mix your politics with toilet seats.
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On 05/24/2016 09:48 AM, Micky wrote:

They're both closely related to shit.
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Oren posted for all of us...

AWWWWW
--
Tekkie

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On 5/21/2016 9:48 PM, Micky wrote:

On my last truck, I could not turn the headlight adjuster screw. Steel screw, goes into plastic headlight assembly. I tried a variety of different lubes, including WD, PB, and a couple others. Finally, I noticed an old can of Castle Thrust, from Nu-Way Auto Parts. It did the trick for me. Soaked into the threads. I was able to turn the screw a little with Vise Grips, and after some back and forth, the adjuster was loose enough for me to adjust the headlight beam.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 8:14:56 AM UTC-4, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Did the Thrust "do the trick" on its own or did all three substances do a little? In other words, had the order of application been reversed, would the screw still have loosened up?
Something to ponder and something that will forever remain a mystery.
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On 5/22/2016 8:45 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

"A difference which makes no difference, is no difference." Spock.
Of course, we'll never know. When I did more heating and AC, my boss used to tell me that the last person who touched the unit owns it. Any future problems will be blamed on the last tech. And so, I give Castle Thrust the credit for the headlight aimer threads.
--
.
Christopher A. Young
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