It for sure gets brittle but doesn't seem to bother as long as it isn't moved. Brittleness shows when it breaks due to frost, fractures propagate down the line for several feet at times. I would probably go with black poly if I didn't have the stock of PVC. I think poly stands freezing a bit better.
Harry K
I ran 1" PVC about a 1/4 mile buried in 1976. Still in service today with no leaks. Same for all my sprinkler lines. Only leak I have had was one fitting where I made the misstake of using a female PVC/male Iron fitting. NEVER do that! Always use a malepvc/female iron. Much fun as it broke in the middle of winter and I had to shut off the the entire line until spring so I could dig it up.
Harry K
Stretch out 500 ft of hose under 60psi and see what you have at the end when the water is running.
Harry K
Didn't know you could even buy w5/8" polyi or pvc. That's mighty small hole to push water that far. There is a reason why plumbing tables increase pipe size for distance.
Harry K
I hardly think anyone would classify a 1" hose as a 'garden hose'.
Harry K
I hook up 50 ft of 5/8" garden hose to the sill c*ck at my house and measure the water that flows out over 1 minute. I do the same thing with 500 ft of the same hose. According to what you're claiming when I measure it over 1 minute, the same amount of water will flow. You have much experience here on planet Earth?
You started of as James Nipper now you are just James
I was suggesting that 1" could be too small not too big. 3/4" will flatten and kink more than 1" and has about half the capacity. It's the area of the pipe cross section that is important so the capacity varies as the square of the diameter. Go see that irrigation specialist.
D
Investigate underground piping, and associated valves. There is one that opens a valve in the ground below freezing level, and when the water is turned off, drains the water in the stand pipe to keep it from freezing. No need to totally drain the lines if you put them in deep enough. Not sure of their name, but I have seen lots of them in freezing country. They are red, and have a crooked handle top.
Steve
Where do you live that you're irrigating in winter... and if you live in a warm clime where one irrigates all year WTF mention winter, and if it's warm enough to irrigate WTF would you need to wait until spring to dig... are you fibbing? From reading your posts you're just making it ALL up... "iron" irrigation fittings your ass.
Agree that 1" is the minimum for the length of run he's working on. No reason to use anything smaller, the 1" is cheap and readily available.
That would be one hell of a project, running pipe below the frost line through mostly wooded areas. Around here, even if it's just open space, poly pipe is just pulled to bury it, almost never buried 3 ft deep, for obvious reasons. You just blow it out with a compressor at the end of the season. That's what is done with almost all the lawn irrigation systems. With some small percentage the pitch allows for self-draining.
Being so "cheap"inexpensive (as you say) I can't imagine anyone painting plastic tubing rather than occasionally replacing a portion... and it's not like it's going to deteriorate from UV within a short time... if not abused by kinking and driving vehicles over PVC it will last well over 10 years outdoors (no one paints their PVC drip systems either).
And no one would use glue for an irrigation system, every professionally installed system I've ever seen, and I've seen a lot of them and installed several myself, holds it all together with stainless steel crimp clamps, not screw type hose clamps, they use a stainless steel ring and crimping tool (fast, inexpensive, and neat - screw type hose clamps are expensive, difficult to work in dirt, and present a hazard due to the loose end). Gluing makes it difficult to make changes/repairs.
I've done that occasionally... just as much volume exits 100' 200',
300' 400' as 500' or more, so long as the hose is not kinked/flattened or otherwise constricted or run up hill whatever volume enters exits... I'm positive you've never actually done what you suggest, except tinkling with your tiny 2" fuse. What people don't realize is that their hose bib valve is what dictates volume.. if your hose bib is supplied by 1/2" copper using 5/8" hose won't supply any more volume than a 1/2" hose, except for the first couple seconds untill the little more volume in the larger hose is expelled, kinda like the first burst or pressure from a pressurized hose laying out in the hot sun... a very brief surge. And most folks do have 1/2" domestic water plumbing in their homes to each outlet... then the only benefits of using 5/8' garden hose is that its larger diameter and wall thickness is much less prone to kinking/collapsing and has a longer life than 1/2" hose. It's silly to buy 3/4" garden hose for the typical residence, it offers no benefit, it won't produce more volume and will be heavy/clumsy, and will quickly fill your hose reel, not to mention being more costly for nothing... 3/4" hose probably can't be coiled into a small enough diameter to fit the typical home owner's hose reel anyway... 3/4' hose is meant for commercial applications. One can increase pressure at the discharge by limiting exit diameter, by adjusting a nozzle, but that reduces volume... volume can't be increased past what is supplied from the source. There is only so much volume available from the typical residential water supply, that's why sprinker systems are installed with several zones... without separate zones if all the heads were run at once they'd dribble n' drip like your widdle impotent peepee. It's plain silliness installing a grid of piping over a six acre property and then supply it from a residential well, one would still need to walk about opening one valve at a time and stand there like a putz watering for however long before moving on to the next area. MUCH easier hauling water to the various plants... leave a bucket with a hole in it by each plant, and just refill from your hauled buckets as needed, less than 30 seconds per plant. Many large commercial nurserys use this system, wastes far, FAR less water... many sink a few 3' lenghts of 4" perforated poly pipe into the ground around each newly planted sapling, then periodically pass by hauling a water tank with watering wand in hand, don't even need to get down from the tractor to fill the irrigators.
Nope, plumbing tables increase pipe diameter by how many taps branch off... there is no benefit to increasing diameter for just point to point. You obviously don't own your own home.
Why not, that's what it's called... not everyone has a widdle garden... many commercial nurserys use 1" garden hose, enables them to shoot greater volume further.
You've never done that, you don't have anymore 5/8" hose than your one
50' length or you could actually try it... I have many 100' lengths of 5/8" hose and have actually done what you suggest... whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other end... or do you mean when your mommy pinches your widdle peepee while changing your nappy.
All an irrigation specialist needs to know is his well capacity and exit pipe diameter.. I seriously doubt his little cabin's water system can accomodate more than 3/4" outlet piping.
Of course whatever volume goes in one end comes out the other. That has nothing to do with what you claimed, which is that the volume of water flowing through a pipe depends ONLY ON THE DIAMETER. The volume of water flowing through a pipe depends on the diameter, length, and pressure. The narrower the pipe the more resistance to flow if has. The longer the pipe the more resistance to flow it has. That's how the laws of physics apply here on planet Earth. So if you connect 50 ft of garden hose to your home which has a water pressure of
50lbs you're going to get MORE water coming out the other end than if you connect 250 ft of hose. And if you connect a long enough length of hose you will get zero flow because 50 lbs isn't enough pressure to overcome the total resistance. Capiche?And for someone so obviously ignorant, I would not be taking cheap shots at others here.
Tell that to oil companies. I guess they are just stupid to build the Alaskan pipeline, for example, which is 4 ft in diameter and runs point to point. They should have consulted you and done it with a pipe 2" in diameter.
You are such a complete moron it isn't even funny. Have you seen many wells with a 3/4 inch connection?
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