I was going to install 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe in the wall from the basement up to the second floor to make it easier to run more cable (data cable, TV Coax and such) up there should I need to in the future. I thought about just running the electric wire in the pipe too but I though I read where someone on this group mentioned to not run electric wire through PVC.
Did I misread something or is that true? It if is true, what is the problem with it.
Sure seems like it would be easier to run wire in future projects. But then if I do the job right, the won't be much reason to run more wire for a long, long time anyway.
I just googled on the issue I posted here and it looks like there is a heat issue if electric wires are enclosed in a conduit.
I really can't see me ever having to run more electric wire up there as long as I live here. But I will surely run a conduit for the other types of wire.
If your electrical wiring is of cable type (NM, UF, MC, or AC), then you can run it through any kind of pipe or tube as just a sleeve. The sleeve is not part of the electrical system, it is there just to make fishing easier.
If you want to run individual electrical wires (like THHN-2), then for PVC you must use the grey electrical conduit. You also need a complete conduit system, i.e. the conduit must start and end at electrical boxes (where you could switch over to other wiring methods).
In terms of overheating, you need to watch how many current carrying conductors (CCCs) you run together for a significant length. If you have too many together you have to "derate" each conductor so that it carries less current, or alternatively upsize the conductor for a given current. The rules are complicated, and derating potentially starts at 4 CCCs. However, for NM cable in #14 and #12 sizes, you can run up to 9 CCCs and still maintain the usual 15A and 20A capacities, respectively.
As far as mixing electrical and data wiring, it is best not to for reasons such as interference, although it may be allowed. You'd have to check the NEC for the details. I do know that when it is allowed, and you are using individual electrical wires, then the data wiring must have an insulation rating at least as high as the voltage of the electrical system.
You can find any answer you want on a google search, most wrong. The reality is the (heat) derating for wire in conduit is exactly the same as it is for wire in a cable.
Also as long as the wire is in a cable, they can all live together in the same pipe as long as that is just a duct and you are not terminating either in the same enclosure at either end. Cable jackets are "separation" . Any "interference" from 60hz in negligible if you are using twisted pairs or coax for the signal wires.
If somebody wants an elegant solution, I have 600 feet of maxcell innerduct that will give you 3 separate cells in the pipe but you should be running 2" pipe or larger to use it. (All you want for the shipping)
I don't know about 1.5", but the last time I bought 1/2" and 3/4" grey conduit at HD, it was cosiderably cheaper than the same size sched. 40 water pipe. One would think it would be the other way around. YMMV. Larry
Don't just run the pipe. Inside it run some nylon string or something strong, substantially longer than the pipe, so you can pull new wires through easily. And leave it there even when you think you are done. I would like to run one more wire to my attic, but it's too hard to get it through hole in the plywood between floors one and two.
Actually, get some of that nylon pull rope that they sell at Lowe's or HD or at electrical places. And, when pulling a new wire into the conduit, pull an extra piece of the nylon stuff for the next time.
I had good luck using a plumbing snake to go down from my attic to basement (2 story house) alongside the plumbing vent. By turning the snake back and forth when it stops going down, the end moved enough to find a clear path. If there is a path, you might be able to find it this way.
Ahl, yeah, I stared to say substantially more than 2 times as long as the pipe but couldn't quite remember why. Make the pull string that long and attach what is pulled in the middle, and there will still be some of it sticking out both ends when he is done pulling. He can run the same string back and forth, back and forth, pulling in either direction.
I don't think fishing line is going to be easy to attach anything to, especially compared to nylon string, but he may know more abou tfishing line than I do.
Realize that that line isn't really rated for pulling wire, it's intended to be cheap and light weight to install in conduit and then use to pull actual rope into the conduit to pull the wires. That "Powr-Fish" relates to it's intended installation method where it is blown through the conduit by air pressure attached to a little foam plug piston.
The pull line has far more stretch and much lower breaking strength than rope. It will work ok for pulling light stuff like coax and cat5 cable. There is a version of it that is a flat woven tape which is marked off in feet along it's length so you can blow it through an unknown length of conduit and get a measurement to order wire.
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