Running computer cables from basement to floor above

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To isolate noise and heat from the computer, I want to place the processor box in the basement and have the monitor and keyboard on the floor above. I need to penetrate the basement wall (which also happens to an exterior wall), run straight up about 6 ft, and then penetrate the wall again to get into the room on the upper floor. The run should be no more than 10 ft, so I am not worried about the cable length or signal integrity. However, I am not sure if the cavity behind the wall extends all the way between the basement level and the upper floor, or if it is closed off at floor level. I don't want to open up the drywall and find out that I can't route the cables after all. The DVI cable would need at least a one inch hole to get through, so drilling something that big through structural lumber would be out of the question. Any thoughts?
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On Wed, 18 Jul 2007 21:22:04 -0700, Andrew Sarangan

After reading ahead, I come back here and ask, So you mean you want to go only half-way through the basement wall, is that it?

Yes, it's closed off at floor level, unless you have some very strange construction.

Why not just go throught the ceiling of the basement and the floor above it? What room on the first floor are you going into. What is the floor made of. How many cabinets does it have?
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Unless it's an old house with balloon framing, you will have to drill through floor plates

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[...]
Yep. You're nuts. That's waaaaaay too much work to solve a basically non-existent problem. Put the computer on the floor under the table, and put some nice music on the stereo.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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Doug Miller wrote:

Dittos. Plus what do you do when you have to access a disk or CD/DVD drive ;) Frank
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yeah you need access to computer, another room will be a nightmare and many cables have max length rules...... longer wouldnt work.
shop for a quiet computer. i bought used vectras for this reason, larger box yes but naturally cooled, just the tiny fan on the processor
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

My new Gw is the quietest I've ever owned. Even in old days of noisier computers, cannot imagine putting cpu in another room. Frank
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wrote:

This is true... Computers today do NOT need to be noisy.
Use a PSU with a single 120mm fan. a CPU heatsink with a slow, large fan, and add a front intake fan (again 120mm) and you should be good. If you've no room for a fan in front, add a 120mm exhaust fan in the rear. Finally, if you have a video card with a tiny, noisy fan, replace it with one of the many quieter sink/fan combinations.
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On Fri, 20 Jul 2007 07:48:19 -0400, Frank wrote:

My EMachines (made by GW) about a year old is so quiet I leave it run 24/7 and it is in my bedroom.
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What noise and heat?
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1. On most new computer systems, you must press a button on the box to "Power On"
2. You're never going to use the CD/DVD reader/burner ??
3. Plugging in any USB device, like a digital camera will be a pain in the butt !
Modern ( DELL ) PC's are relatively quiet. and even the heat is minimal.........
????
wrote:

<rj>
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wrote:

There's likely a setting in the BIOS to make it come on automatically when power is applied. Then you can use a remote power switch. I have used such a setup for a couple of years.
You may want to leave the computer on all the time, but a remote power switch is still a good ides for the times there's no way to get it to work without rebooting.

There are external CD/DVD drives. Also see below.

How are you connecting your keyboard and mouse? If you're using USB, you already have the cable you need to have a hub in the room above. You can plug things in there, including that external CD/DVD drive.
I prefer USB anyway (and all modern systems should support it). The connectors are more reliable.

If heat is still a problem, would a good fan help?

--
Mark Lloyd
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On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 16:42:17 -0500, Mark Lloyd

How come Compaqs and some others don't have Reset buttons?

He woudl have to run a cable for that though and didnt' mention it.

Good point. I don't have one, but I'm still in the 90's with win98 even.
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wrote:

I suppose they're making the thing cheaper to save a little money.
Anyway, is this supposed to be relevant to power switches?

It could be the SAME cable as for the keyboard/mouse. See my next reply.

Win98 supports USB, so the solution I mentioned should work (although probably not as well as ME or later). However, a computer that was new at the time Win98 was new may lack BIOS support for USB (an inconvenience) as well as coming on with application of power. Check that. I seemed to remember that only some systems of that age had the feature (most do now).
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Mark Lloyd
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On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 20:43:23 -0500, Mark Lloyd

Yeah, I have USB and I have a USB camera. I'm just not up to having a hub yet. :)
Well, my friend gave me two of them, but I haven't used one yet. They have quite short cords, too short to use in the basmeent. Maybe that's why he gave them to me. I think he got one of them for free somewhere.

I think the camera came with what all I needed, but earlier, I had to get a later-writen driver for a memory stick. There are good newsgroups for that.

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@bigfoot.com says...

Isn't USB limited to 10'? That's not much if you're running between floors and to several devices.

They're cheap. I have a couple of nice seven port hubs, the laptop has three ports, the dock five, and monitor four (and another four port in the drawer). ;-)

There is a maximum length. IMO you'll run into this if you go between floors.
<snip>
--
Keith

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16' per segment and 5 segments (with hubs between them).

Adjacent floors shouldn't be more than 16 feet apart. Maybe if this cable needs to run horizontally too.

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Mark Lloyd
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I use to use this setting because I had a power strip under the monitor that has switches for each outlet. It works find except then the weather is bad and the power cycles on and off. I don't think using this setting would be a good idea unless you have a UPS.
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wrote:

Maybe not if you have frequent really short power outages.
--
Mark Lloyd
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wrote:

If you leave the thing sleeping or whatever (not Standby. Deader than standby) you can set it to start up from the keyboard. I leave mine deader, because it's plugged into a UPS. Even then I could set it to go on every time the UPS goes on, or everytime it is plugged in.

When I suggested a hole in the floor, I forgot about that. My mind wandered to when I wanted to put the printer in the next room, not the computer. I don't print much and I'd like more space on my desk. (The only thing standing in my way is that I don't have much space in the next room either.)

I forgot about that too, even though I just got a digital camera (10 dollars for one from 2004)

I've been using the AC for the last 3 days, and I've been turning the computer off a lot more.

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