I have a portable generator that is rated at 7,500 watts run and about
14,000 start. I have a 10 seer (sp?) central AC. Is it possible to run the AC from the generator if nothing elese is attached to the generator?Thanks.
IC
The condenser is 240V, but the blower fan is 120. The generator will work at 240 (though I'm not sure it is wired in through the panel at 240).
-- IC
You still need full load amperage of both units. It would have been better if the blower was 240 as well. Your generator puts out aprox 31 amps @240 volts continuous. The blower at 120 volt probably needs around 10 to 12 amps. Look on the nameplate of the condenser for the FLA
Probably is OK. You can try it. If it doesn't trip the gen breaker then you're ok.
Even the smallest split system will require far more starting current than that generator could provide.
What size is the AC (tons)? Multiply the tons by 1200 to get approximate run time watts.
It can take six or eight times the run time wattage for starting. If you have a 'hard start' kit on the condenser it will reduce the starting load.
Are you sure about that? Typically generators will handle surges of 10 or
20% over capacity; not 100%Do you have an ampmeter? That is the best way to determine how much the AC draws.
Really Highly Doubt it that you will be able to run the AC off of your portable Generator - Seeing that it is going to be a pain in the ass to have the 240 and the 120v coming off your generator at the same time, and not to mention unless you have a really big portable generator its not going to supply the current you need to get that A/C up and running. That Start-Up Current Spike is going to be way over what your generator probably can supply thus it will trip everytime.
My parents ran the A/C from their portable many times. Living in rural NC they got their power knocked out a lot by storms. The 240/120 wasnt an issue. They just back fed to the house load center and ran things normally. They just couldnt run the A/C and water heater at the same time.
Joe Grassi wrote:
Practically all generators with a 7.5 kw output generate 120/240 volts. The OP's issue is his combined starting and running current, which is still unknown. If his unit is small enough, it would work fine
24000 Btu is 7 kilowatt-HOURS of energy. We might make 24K Btu/h of cooling power with 2.4 kW of electrical power...
Nick
Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as hell and in most places illegal
My 2-ton 12 SEER heat pump outdoor unit draws about 6 to 8 amps at 240 volts when running. Start amps are about 20 to 25 amps. The indoor unit draws about 2 amps at 240 volts. I use a window unit during power outages, 120 volt, 1/2 ton. Then I can also run two refrigerators, a microwave, the TV if the cable still works and some lights. I also run a cord to each of two neighbors so they can run their refrigerators too. If I ran my heat pump, it would reduce what Extra stuff I could run.
What size is your AC? That would determine the answer. If it is much over 3 tons, probably not.It depends on the surge rating of the generator and if you have a hard start kit on your ac. My heat pump has one, but I still prefer the window unit. Why strain an expensive generator?
Stretch
I would think that something under 24000 BTU (2.4 KW) would probably start OK, even if it didn't have a hard start kit on it.
Actually, I'm leaning toward that option. Not 12K or 15K btu units, but maybe 3 or 4 6K window units. I have an upstairs and downstairs with about
1100 sqft upstairs and 2100 downstairs. I'm not looking to fully cool the place, but in the peak summer (outside temps in the 95 to 100 range) keep it in the 85 to 90 range and keep the humidty at tolerable levels.-- IC
Stretch,
I mentioned in another post I am leaning toward the window unit plan now (thanks to all the good info here). I am considering three or four 6 btu units spread throughout the house. My generator is 7500 KW run and 13.5 KW start, so I'm thinking I should have plenty to do about what you described you do. Some lights, window AC, refridge, micorwave, TV and computers.
Thanks.
-- IC
You are right. They always disconnect from the main power before running off the gen.
No> Backfeeding through the main panel without a transfer switch is dangerous as
That's a pretty expensive generator. If you can afford the generator, you should be able to afford a couple of window units that will work much better on emergency power. I'd recommend a couple of very high EER 12,000 to 15,000 btu units.
Only at 10 SEER or better.
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