Running a Garden Hose 16.8 Miles.....

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Most of the country has been mapped out as to the altitude. I can get on the county tax map and get contour lines and satalite pix of the house I live in.
See if your county web page has a GIS map program .
Some, maybe all or most all of the GPS units will have a screen where the altitude can be read. It does not seem to be near as accurate as the horizontal position.
Years ago I ordered from the government some maps that had the contour lines on it. The local library may have some, or a small local airport may be able to help with the maps.
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On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 12:16:34 AM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:

You don't have a USGS topo map of your place?
Actually, there are web sites to do that. I just googled for "find the elevation", google suggested "find the elevation of my house", and a number of promising links were returned.
My house is at 827 feet.
Cindy Hamilton
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On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 2:52:38 PM UTC-4, Cindy Hamilton wrote:

What pressure will the water in the hose be at when he runs it 500 miles or 6+ miles to your house?
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On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 5:58:09 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:

I hope he never comes within 500 miles of my house.
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On Tue, 22 Mar 2016 11:52:23 -0700 (PDT), Cindy Hamilton

Thanks for the suggestion. The google one says my house is at 490 feet, but all the maps put my house on a street 2 blocks up the hill, so I'm probably at 470. My friend 10 miles away is at 560. I thought she'd be higher, so I have to update my impression of the terrain.
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On Thursday, March 24, 2016 at 1:40:05 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:

If you don't have a smart phone, borrow one. There are free elevation apps that use GPS and/or location. Even if they aren't 100% accurate as far as true elevation, hopefully any error is consistent when used to find the *difference* between the elevation of 2 locations.
For more confidence, download multiple free apps and use them all. Hopefully the differences between the 2 locations will be the same.
In other words, if x1-y1 (from app1) and x2-y2 (from app2) both equal z, you can be fairly confident that the difference in elevation is a usable value.
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On Thu, 24 Mar 2016 11:47:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

Very interesting.
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I'm amazed that anyone would even respond to something as ridiculous as this question
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wrote:

+1
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On Monday, March 21, 2016 at 11:59:01 PM UTC-5, taxed and spent wrote:

+ another
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bob_villain wrote:

And yet all 3 of you read the thread and responded ...
--
Snag



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You assume wrong. I read all I needed to in the subject line
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On 3/22/2016 12:24 AM, ChairMan wrote:

I'm hoping to hear from Danny D, who has the experience as a water hauler.
So, why DID you comment on this ridiculous question?
--
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Christopher A. Young
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Uncle Monster wrote:

I highly doubt that. It might be humorous to you and me, but given its history, she's serious
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On 3/22/2016 12:00 AM, mike wrote:

That would be the case if there were zero flow, and zero leaks.
- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .
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On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 12:01:19 AM UTC-4, mike wrote:

That isn't true. At some given pressure and some hose length, the friction of the hose is great enough that the water effectively forms a plug and the pressure will be X at the source end and 0 at the far end.
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When the water is not moving. When it is moving pressure is lower at the far end. Same as with electricity. E = IR, where I = flow, R resistance (which he should be able to measure with his seven 350-foot hoses) and E = pressure.

That raises an interesting question. When the water is only a foot from the supply, it hasn't run into much friction, but the flow is the same as the water that's 16 miles from the supply. Almost like it sent scouts ahead and found out about all the friction along the way.
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On 03/22/2016 01:11 PM, Micky wrote:
[snip]

The water at the far end of the hose is slowed down by excessive friction.
The water near the beginning of the hose is slowed down by the hose being blocked (by the slow water at the far end).
Does that make sense?
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I don't know if you're posting a serious problem, looking for a real solution, but I'll take a chance and give you a possible solution that will probably fix the problem.
In the control box is a black capacitor called the start capacitor. Have your friend turn off the power at the breaker, take out the capacitor, take it to a water well company, or Home Depot and buy another one. The one he gets may or may not look exactly alike, but will probably work. Put in the new one, turn on the power and see if it works. I bet it will.
I've seen start capacitors that were half the original size that worked, and vice versa. They're usually around $25.00 dollars. You can get replacements on eBay for less but you have to wait for shipping.
The silver capacitor is called the run capacitor. When the pump starts, but won't continue to run after an indefinite period of time, it needs to be replaced.
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On Mon, 21 Mar 2016 22:55:34 -0500, snipped-for-privacy@unlisted.moo wrote:
The thing you should have told us is how deep is the well. If it is 50-60 feet, pulling the pump is doable for a couple of guys. Much deeper than that and you need a machine or really big guys. You can make it a whole lot easier if you snake an air hose down the pipe and blow as much water out as you can. Then 80 might not be that hard. Hope they put a rope on the pump.
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