Lots of excellent suggestions above.
A few I'd add:
In my experience, 90% or more of "roof" leaks are actually flashing problems - it's pretty hard to screw up shingle application (not that some people don't manage):
formatting link
but it can be quite difficult to flash intersections between the roof and something else properly.
For starters, are you doing a "tear off", or re-roofing over the original shingles?
IMO you may get satisfactory results with a re-roof if it's a "simple" roof, but in my experience if there is any intersection with a vertical surface (such as the side of a dormer) it can be VERY difficult to (re)flash such intersections properly during a re-roof. And even on a "simple" re-roof you want to pay close attention to the flashing at all roof penetrations - for example many of the vent-stack flashings that depend on a rubber collar around the stack for water seal are old enough so that the "rubber" seal may have deteriorated:
formatting link
and such penetrations which will require re-flashing, not just a dab of roofer's cement to seal cracks.
Other frequent problems I see on both tear-offs and re-roofs include:
- Chimney problems not corrected before roofing. Have the chimney inspected *before* roofing, and coordinate any repairs with both the mason and roofer - you don't want end up seeing something like this:
formatting link
which will require both masonry work (which can damage roofing) and re-flashing (which will mean removing some newly installed shingles).
- Incorrect chimney flashings to masonry chimneys. In most areas of the country the accepted industry best practice is "step flashing", a series of individual flashings which extend underneath the shingles and up the side of the chimney and are then covered with a "counter flashing" that is set ("let in") to the mortar joints.
formatting link
There are other ways to properly flash a chimney, but what you do NOT want to see is roofer's cement slobbered over a "flashing", it will start cracking, often within a year:
formatting link
or worse yet, no flashing at all:
formatting link
- Incorrect flashing at dormer sides - generally if done properly this is a step flashing (in this case, as seen before siding is installed):
formatting link
junctions with other materials, such conventional stucco or EIFS, have somewhat different flashing methods.
As you can see this flashing is difficult to inspect during a re-roof, and one way to save money on a tear-off is to re-use instead of replacing it.
- No kickouts on "blind" gutter ends. Big potential damage on this one as you may be directing water into walls. "Easier to show you than tell you":
formatting link
formatting link
formatting link
- Gutters and downspouts not properly (re) installed and wetting foundation. Use common sense here: the water should flow off the roof and into the gutters, not overshoot them or flow between the gutter and the structure, once in the gutters it should flow toward the downspouts without over flowing the sides at any point, and once in the downspouts it should exit at least 5' from the foundation at a location graded such that the water does not flow back toward the foundation. If you have any doubts, have the roofer direct a garden hose onto the roof area in question, and watch the results.
Michael Thomas Paragon Home Inspection, LLC Chicago, IL mdtATparagoninspectsDOTcom eight47-721-0776