We just had a new roof put on last week by a contractor who is a friend
of the family. He wasn't around when most of the shingling was done,
and wasn't there at all during completion.
Things look good to me with the exception of the corners of the roof.
We have a roof with no gables (hip roof?) and it has 7 corners where
slopes meet on an outside corner. In several of the corners, the
shingles are not laying flat to the point where they touch the roof
deck. I don't know much about roofs, but it doesn't look right to me.
Maybe the shingles will heat up and lay down, but I don't think so.
I am worried about wind-driven rain and snow getting up under there and
causing leaks, or at the very least getting under the soffit and facia
and rotting the wood under there.
I have posted photos of two of these corners at
plus a photo of a first-row shingle that isn't laying flat (maybe too
Your comments are appreciated. I don't want to complain if this is the
It's possible, but not likely that they will lie down after heating up
in the sun for a week or two. I have done a fair amount of roofing,
and believe that I could fix these and make them look better, but I
also wouldn't be too worried about the wind driven rain. There should
be a layer of shingles all the way to the ridge, and also ice & water
barrier under that if you are in a cold climate.
Of greater concern to me is the lousy look of using regular 3 tab
shingles as hip & ridge shingles for architectural shingles. I know
that the "correct" hip & ridge shingles are costly, but using them (or
doubling up 3 tabs) gives you a much better look for a minimal extra
Unfortunately, this is _normal_ with _poor_ workmanship. I bet they tried
to impress you how quickly they did the roof, instead of stressing on the
quality of the job.
Areas of concern to me would be.
1. Poorly installed drip edge at the corner, as in your first picture. Note
how the one edge over shoots the corner by what appears to be at least one
inch. The "roofer" did _not_ know how to form a proper corner with drip
2. The shingles and starter course do _not_ over hang the drip. There
should be at least 1/2" to 3/4" overhang. On low slope roofs such as yours
(4/12 pitch ?), the latter is better. I do note someone installed what
appears to be flashing, which would not be needed, with properly installed
shingles. Even the "flashing" is not proper in picture #1, notice how the
flashing does not continue to corner, and actually is over the drip, which
will force water behind the gutter.
3. The cap does not appear to have a starter cap. I could go into detail on
the proper way to start cap, but I will try to keep it simple. Without a
starter cap, the cap nearest the gutter only has "1" layer vs. the rest of
the cap has a double coverage. Also, without a properly installed starter
cap, there isn't a tar line, hence the wind would be able to lift the
I agree with Big Jake on the issue of using a hip & ridge cap, instead of a
3 tab for cap. It kinda of cheapens a job appearance.
The area where you mention as the shingles appearing to butted to tight,
you could be correct. It also could be drip edge which was pulled to tight,
and buckled, or sheathing raised. It may even be debris covered over.
Without actually inspecting, it's really hard to say.
I suspect the people which roofed your home, thought they knew what they
were doing. They may have been doing it for many years, unfortunately,
they've been doing roofing incorrectly.
It would be interesting to know if they installed the ridge cap, in
reference to the prevailing winds. Also points of concern would be how the
worked areas of penetration, such as soil stacks, vents, and or any chimney
area. One has to wonder if they used a starter strip, and if it was
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