Roof bids from $1400-$6200???

I have had three contractors out for my roof.
I have one layer of shingles. I have one big vent at the end of the house, but bad moisture problems inside. Water drips from every door jamb. I figure this is mostly the leaky roof, combined with non- existent venting.
My siding is solid on the soffits/eaves/whatever you call it. I know it's supposed to be the ventilated siding, but it's not.
One says $6200 for a tear off and total resheathing, new ridge/soffit vents and 30 year shingles.
Next is $4800 for tear off, new shingles, new vents.
Third is $1400 to re-roof over the shingles. He says he can use a saw to cut a hole to put ridge vents in and then add soffit ones.
Is Mr. Cheapo doable?
What about my siding? Will I have to replace that? I can't imagine a vent can work if the siding is solid...
Thanks Jena
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my first question is with that much water how is the roof deck? its likely at least started rotting, so removing old shingles to inspect it is essential.
if you have insulation its likely all ruined:(
how long has the leaky roof leaked? how old is the existing roof? all the drip edge, flashing is at least that old, and probably needs replaced
you can certinally cut holes in siding to install vents.
have any mentioned ridge vents? they are excellent.
in general terms mid price is usually best have you checked BBB, gone to look at nearby jobs and checked references? be certain to do that!
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That last thing, about the siding and the vent: Please think about the question further. They're going to cut a hole through the siding and whatever's underneath when they install the vent. Why shouldn't it work?
As far as the price range, anything's possible, but some things aren't likely. I've never found the cheapest solution to be an acceptable one. Begin by asking everyone you know if they've used a roofer and were happy with the results. Remember that cleaning up afterward is an important part of the job. You can help by cutting the lawn very short before the job begins.
Most contractors put signs on the lawns when they work on houses. Knock on the homeowner's doors and ask how they liked the work. Some people will be clueless, but others will have paid close attention and will have good information to share.
By the way, I got quotes ranging from $2000 to $9000, for the exact same work. Most were around $5000, which is what I ended up paying. The guy with the cheapest quote exhibited a problem: I asked "I understand there's a special roof vent to use for a bathroom fan duct. What kind do you use? What do they look like?" I got a blank stare followed by "I'll have to find out more, and get back to you about it."
He was removed from the list immediately.
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A lot of times they'll send a sales guy around to give quotes, 'cause the others are busy roofing. So he might've really meant it when he said that.
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On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 05:29:05 -0800 (PST), JMartin wrote:

I assume only the exterior doors? If interior, why only the doors and not the rest of the ceiling.

You will only get a 25yr warranty on 30yr shingles if you roof over existing shingles and you will not find out if you have any bad sheathing.

Cutins are common.

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Is the roof leaking, have you gone in the attic and looked. Which doors drip exterior only? Why are not your ceilings ruined? It sounds like condensation issues. Is roof deck rotted? Is mold growing in the attic indication underventing? 1400 may do it but maybe you have no leak or venting issues but are over humidifying the house, maybe you dont need a roof.
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They are all viable solutions to the matching problem. The problem is, though, you don't know what yours is. If you have leaks and the house is older, you may have to replace the sheathing and the $6200 job is the right one. You can often give some inspection from the attic space, but until the old shingles are off, you can't be sure.
Tear off is good and gives you the opportunity to check the sheathing, add ice dams, etc. Makes for the best job but is costly.
The third is a viable way of doing the job as long as there is no serious damage. Code permits 2 layers of shingles. Adding venting as he states works too, as long as enough is put in. Methods aside, it sounds too cheap considering the cost of material. He may be using a cheap grade of shingle versus the 30 year job and he may be using staples instead of nails, etc. Unless you have a tiny house, it just sounds too cheap.
The middle guy is going to see the sheathing so if it needs replacing, it can be done, but at added cost. At least be prepared for it if you go that way.
The cheap guy just sounds too cheap. If money is really tight, it may get you by for another 5 or so years. Just don't give him a big down payment and find out what brand and type of shingle he plans to use.
In any case, get some references and ask around about them.
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Ed,
FYI, roofing staples actually have more holding power than roofing nails. I long believed staples to be inferior, then I got an in-person demonstration of their superiority in a hurricane damaged area.
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Thanks for all the replies.
To clarify....
The roof has been leaking for over a year. The leak is in the flashing around the chimney and also around a pole thing they put on the roof for an antenna or something.T he decking does feel solid when you walk on it. I have not inspected the attic.
The leak is evident inside. The ceiling has a hole and sags in that room. At least two walls are also damaged and need new drywall. The rest of the house does not show sagging ceilings, water damaged walls, etc. They are lath/plaster walls.
The dripping is from every interior door jamb. In fact, the exterior doors are the only ones not dripping. I believe the dripping is from condensation from faulty venting combined with the ongoing leak. I just can't see that leak running the length of the house when it has an "out"...the hole in the living room ceiling. I could be wrong.
I figure I'll have remove and replace any insulation as it is probably ruined and will probably turn into some kind of mold monster in warmer weather. I do not want it slithering down to get me some hot and humid night :)
I have decided not to go with Mr. Cheapo because he is not really a contractor. Yeah, he is a union roofer and knows what he is doing, but he doesn't have insurance, or a license and if he does a crappy job I basically have no recourse.
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JMartin wrote:
SNIP DESCRIPTION OF DAMAGE AND FOOLISH DCISION

And if he hurts himself on he job like fallng off the roof, he owns you house and land.
Industruial strength stoooopid.
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wrote:

he said NOT go with him
sadly waiting will cost you much more, roof decking, insulation, mold and other damage. is the attic full of stuff? that stuff is likely ruined.
you must have a complete roof tear off and replacement. just so all the hidden damage can be fixed
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

I really need to make sure my bran is engaged before I start typing.
And clean my glasses, too!
Sorry
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So it seems you might not need a whole roof, rather its Chimney flashing, probably improperly done, the man made hole for your antenna that could be Patched, and attic venting. You could save youself alot if you realy got someone over there to help, Pay for an inspection before wasting thousands.
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not now, patching a bad idea after leaking a year, and water running downstairs bringing down cielings..... rotting roof deck......
besides i bet the roof is old and patching a roof on its way out is a great waste of money.
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JMartin wrote:

A very troubling problem.......do you have gas or oil heat? If so, get it checked today.

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"JMartin" wrote

Please do. I suspect you are in for a rude suprise.

Much as I hate to say it, but the estimate from the high end guy had what you seem to need. If you do it now, it won't get worse. This is pretty serious level roof problem and it can cost you the whole house if you dont fix it fast.
Do not be shocked if some of the rafters have to be replaced at this stage. My neighbors waited too long and didnt havwe the plywood fully replaced when I did. Some of them now are paying 35,000$ and up because the rafters also have to be replaced. I believe I was told the going rate there was 1,000$ each?
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i believe the grand a piece estimate based on a friend who had a fire, damaged 2 rafters, replacement 1500 bucks about 5 years ago, now add inflatation......
the OP has a serious problem that shouldnt be left go.
although i wouldnt have a new roof installed in the winter. the shingles may never lay flat and poor seal is result
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Yup. Lets just say when we had ours done, he looked around and left fliers and knocked on a few doors. Nothing obtrusive but the community was all built at the same time and some were starting to sway just a tad like ours (which didnt leak but we feared it would soon).
2 neighbors besides us had the roofs done, one by him, another with a cheaper fellow who just added shingles. My house and the other done by him are *perfect* but both of us needed some of the plywood replaced. Not at all suprising in houses built 1961-1964. It was just 'time'.
The other person, is now having all the plywood replaced and some inner wood by his fireplace (like me, he has one). *4* others now have major damage with rafter replacements, some just a few, 1 extensive to the point where they tented the house and took the whole thing off and put a new one on.
You cant drive more than 2 streets away now without seeing some roofing company about. Simple to see why. After close to 50 years, the plywood has to be replaced.

Absolutely. Experience here that is fortunately vicarious as we took care of it in time.

He doesnt have a choice and I didnt note where he is so it may not be that cold there. Roofers do work in winter and for some of us, thats actually a 'dryer time' so better than in summer.
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try www.rooftech.com
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Mr cheapo is probably not doable! Even with a recover, material costs will average $50+ per square (100 S.F. coverage). I don't know how big your roof is, but being at one third the middle of the road estimate, sounds like a scam or this guy simply doesn't have a clue.
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