Richdel 476 Irrigation controller

This morning I discovered that my sprinklers didn't work this morning. When I looked at the controller it was flashing 2FUS. The system is about 10 years old. The trouble shooting manual on the web states that there are crossed wires or a bad valve. I looked at the connections and all of them look good and tight. Shouldn't the valves work, except for the bad one? I tested the pump and it is working fine. Any ideas on how to go about diagnosing and correcting this problem?
Thanks JD
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I presume the 2FUS message is telling you that the fuse has blown. Reasonable approach is to check the fuse with a multimeter if you have one. If it's blown or you don't have a multimeter, buy a pack of suitable replacement fuses (take the old one to RadioShack for like replacement) and install a new one. Maybe it will now work. After all, fuses do often die of prolonged use when used near their maximum rating. If the new fuse blows, then you need to check your valve wiring for short circuits (crossed wires or a bad valve solenoid).
SJF
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I looked for a fuse but couldn't find one, even when I removed the face plate. I am not sure where else a fuse would be. I can't even get any of the zones to run on manual. I believe the transformer is working because the LED lights up, even when the battery back up is removed. I am not sure how to check the solonoids. I don't have a multi meter, but this may be a good excuse to get one. Thanks for the input. JD

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I looked for a fuse but couldn't find one, even when I removed the face plate. I am not sure where else a fuse would be. I can't even get any of the zones to run on manual. I believe the transformer is working because the LED lights up, even when the battery back up is removed. I am not sure how to check the solonoids. I don't have a multi meter, but this may be a good excuse to get one. Thanks for the input. JD

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With a multimeter, you can disconnect the hot leads to the valves, one by one, and measure the resistance between the hot lead and the common lead (no need to disconnect the hot lead). It should read about 20 ohms in each case. If you find one or two that are different from the rest you are close to the problem. Could be shorted wiring or a shorted valve solenoid that is throwing the controller in a protective mode. If they all read the same, it could be a failed controller.
I'm not familiar with your particular controller. In my limited experience, it seems many use the same, or a similar, chip but vary in the mechanical aspects and software. But I hope these comments prove useful.
SJF
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