This newsgroup has been very good with these kind of questions, even if maybe they'd work better in an HVAC repair group or the homebrewing newsgroup. I have a grain mill for crushing malt for homebrewing. The handle method is a pain in the but, and a lot of folks end up motorizing their mills. In my case, I asked the HVAC folks that had done a lot of work on my house for an old motor if they come across one. I've got one here now and I'm trying to make sense of it before I start trying to hook it up to the mill.
I think they were proud of themselves when they arrived with this metal enclosure with the motor and everything, which was fine by me. I had asked for a motor that works at 110V, and that's what they said they pulled. I did test it with a switch up to wall power, and it seemed to work--despite tripping the breaker when I turned off the switch. That was because methinks I botched that wiring.
So it is a 1/2HP, 1020RPM motor. Reading the side here, I see "V200-230." So is this actually a 220V motor? I'm not so sure because I see three jumpers labelled A through C:
A: LO B: MED C: HI
Which one I pick works in conjunction with the black contact to give me my line voltage. So does this mean I have some flexibility in voltage? It was connected to 'A' originally, and I haven't tried messing with it. If this somehow lets me using 110V, then what effect will this have on the horsepower and the rpm? I have yellow and black lines going to a start capacitor rated 20.00/370.
It is a thermally protected motor and there's a note "CONT AIR OVER" which implies to me it normally would be cooled by the blower fins. I have to take that thing off to work this thing, so I'm wondering how long I might reasonably expect to run the motor before it trips the protection. I'd probably only need to run the motor 5 minutes to crush my grain, if that helps.