On Thu, 18 Dec 2008 14:28:38 -0800 (PST), Aaron Fude
Get most of it out by turning on the lowest faucet and the highest
faucet. Is that what you mean?
I used bread with the water heater, where one pipe wouldn't stop
dripping (even though I opened the faucet one the second floor. At
least I think I did.) The bread worked quite well. I may have
learned about it here. Maybe from you. Thanks, you or guys.
I don't know but I thought no one did that. I think it's probably
harder that sweating it on.... To get it on, first you put it on and
then you get it hot. You'll probably get it hot everywhere at once,
but if you don't, you can still have a well sealed joint. To get it
off, you have to get it hot, keep it hot everywhere, and pull it off
while it's hot. You have to grab on to it to pull it off at the same
time your other hand is keeping it hot with a torch, and yet not burn
your first hand with the flame.
Then there will still be a layer of solder on the pipe, and maybe some
little mountaings, which you can wipe off I think with a rag while it
is hot enough, while somehow not burning your hand. If you don't get
it off, you will have a hard to impossible time getting the new valve
I haven't soldered much pipe, but I have soldered a lot of
electronics, and I used to try soldering things off. I have all kinds
of desoldering tools and none work well**. I learned it was more
trouble than it was worth most of the time. I think the same is true
with water pipe.
Aren't you glad you asked?
**I have solder wick, a solder bulb, a soldering iron with a built in
suction bulb, and a spring-loaded solder sucker. None of these things
works very well and afaik none are available in water pipe size
anyhow. What I usually do is heat and melt with a regular soldering
iron, and then blow the solder off with a soda straw. That works for
wire connections, but one can't blow the solder out of the tiny space
between a pipe and a valve.
In this case, cut it off, on both sides. Leave as much as possible
sticking out of the wall, and if you have neough room to maneuver the
torch that you can solder the new valve onto the stub, you can do
that, but you may need to add a couple inches of pipe to one stub or
the other, to replace what got lost inside the valve when you cut the
Plus you need a coupler, whatever they are called. You should know
that there are two kinds. One has a dimple inside, half way from one
end to the other. These are very useful in new work, or in all but
the last joint in most replacement work, because it makes it easy to
slide the coupler on just half way. But it's a big problem where the
pipes can't move apart. For that get the couplers with no dimple.
I didn't know they made ttehm with no dimple, plus I wanted to finish,
so I wpent a lot of time trying to grind off that dimple, and it's
amazing, considering how soft copper is, how little progress I made.
I guess most of the time I never quite touched it.
turn it off for free and charge to turn it back on??? Sounds like bs to me.
I'd turn it off myself.
as for getting the water out, once you cut the old valve off, then the water
may run out on its own. If it's a horizontal line, and it won't quit
dripping, then stuff a measure of bread down the line, and do your
soldering. Then the bread will dissolove when you turn the water back on.
(or when the man does, if you decide to wuss out and pay)
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